Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Line Problems

[Jim W]

Ron, a simply stand off clip and a Nylon Hose wear sleeve will solve these issues.

You could drill a hole to provide clearance for a 10MM (3/8) bolt in the bent plate. You would than need a boss to support the clip to keep the hose from rubbing on the bent plate and frame. You would also need a clip like this from the link below. Which can be purchase from any hydraulic shop or a Cat/John Deer dealer.
Caterpillar Clip, 2B3243 (agkits.com) (This is an example)

Just my $0.02,

 

[DHayden]

Time for some Spaghetti wrap for peace of mind.

 

[Wiredawg]

Thanks Jim,

Also considering using an eye bolt that allow me to adjust offset from frame. I'm trying to avoid the hose binding in it as the suspension travel of the hose is in an arc or rubbing it and causing wear. What a pain in the ars this is.

Still studying it.

Thanks again, Ron

 

[GCroyle]

Ron,

The Bat Computer just spit out it's report. After decoding it thru the BatTabUlator Batman, Robin, Alfred, Commissioner Gordon, Chief O'Hara, Joker, Riddler, and Cat Woman they all agreed with the Bat Computers suggestion to route the hose like a motorcycle swingarm does.

Same Bat Time, Same Bat Channel.

Gary, AKA The Fool

 

[Wiredawg]

Soooo,

Got the bias figured out on the ODS lines. There is an adjustment combination of tightness AND angle of the T fitting that allows adjustment where the 90° fitting that goes into the caliper is parallel to the caliper threaded OP opening. Because the caliper is on the same plane as the T fitting, a little tightening and angling of the rubber hose line at the T fitting will slightly bias the brake hose away from the suspension frame sharp edges and remains within that plane throughout the suspension travel of the caliper. Cool beans.

I hate crappy engineering and that's what's the problem on the DS brake lines. The steel brake lines are in series from front ODS to rear ODS, crosses over, feeds into the rear of the bottom of the T fitting. The brake hose feeds from the front of the T, makes an S and CANNOT be biased to prevent contact with the frame. Then, steel brake line feed out of rear of T makes a 180° turn that feeds to a straight fitting to the DS front caliper. Interesting side note: the DS rear brake hose was contacting the flat portions of the RV frame AND the flat portions of the suspension frame, barely showing any wear. Go figure.

The easiest fix to me is to swap the rear DS steel line feeding the front DS and the brake hose to allow proper bias on the brake hose feeding to the caliper. In other words, remove to 180s and make the steel line feed straight to front DS and brake hose feed back towards caliper.

I'm also going to ground away sharp edges and paint for corrosion prevention.

Another unplanned project.

Cheers, Ron

 

[GCroyle]

Ron

Your first pic in last post looks good for routing.
It also shows the shortcoming of the hose config selected. Looks like you have to tighten hose into junction to get it leak tight and then deal with the position of the short tubing connection into the caliper.

I replaced a full rubber hose that threaded into junction and caliper w/o any nut and tube to allow rotation positioning with another hose and a short length of tubing. Allowed tightening hose then the nut into the FM fitting on the hose allowing for 360 deg rotation potential.

Ok time to put your feet up. It’s almost Bat Time you know the channel.

Gary

 

[Wiredawg]

#ad


Checking on some parts in the study on Bat Phone!

 

[GCroyle]

Good fixes and good fun.

 

[TFucili]

Eggzactly!

#ad

 

[Wiredawg]

EGGs-actly!

 

[HPSimpson]

Ron

Your first pic in last post looks good for routing.
It also shows the shortcoming of the hose config selected. Looks like you have to tighten hose into junction to get it leak tight and then deal with the position of the short tubing connection into the caliper.

I replaced a full rubber hose that threaded into junction and caliper w/o any nut and tube to allow rotation positioning with another hose and a short length of tubing. Allowed tightening hose then the nut into the FM fitting on the hose allowing for 360 deg rotation potential.

Ok time to put your feet up. It’s almost Bat Time you know the channel.

Gary

Ron, Sure glad you found this brake line problem in campground and not on Pikes Peak! Your repairs sound pretty sound, remember your health, Please!

 

[Wiredawg]

Ron, Sure glad you found this brake line problem in campground and not on Pikes Peak! Your repairs sound pretty sound, remember your health, Please!

Thanks for the confidence.... pain is constantly a reminder, but toeing the line keeps us active. You're right on the campground, although not recognizing the details of biasing the brake hose led to rapid failure. Happily, no real grades in our part of TX.

I'm looking for a brake line bending tool to reshape the line feeding to the rear. Going to look at my fitting flaring tool to see if it's up to flaring this small of steel line as a possible option in shortening the line. The current steel line has an S, two 180s basically, so if I kink, weaken, or break the line while reshaping it, need plan B. Time is on my side as I'm not taking RV back possibly for another two weeks.

Anyhoo, as always, I appreciate yours and the rest of my TDR friends the support, the suggestions, and especially the humor.

Cheers, Ron

 

[mwilson]

Thanks for the confidence.... pain is constantly a reminder, but toeing the line keeps us active. You're right on the campground, although not recognizing the details of biasing the brake hose led to rapid failure. Happily, no real grades in our part of TX.

I'm looking for a brake line bending tool to reshape the line feeding to the rear. Going to look at my fitting flaring tool to see if it's up to flaring this small of steel line as a possible option in shortening the line. The current steel line has an S, two 180s basically, so if I kink, weaken, or break the line while reshaping it, need plan B. Time is on my side as I'm not taking RV back possibly for another two weeks.

Anyhoo, as always, I appreciate yours and the rest of my TDR friends the support, the suggestions, and especially the humor.

Cheers, Ron

Maybe fab up a new line using Copper/Nickel alloy tubing. We have switched to that up here in corrosion country and it is far easier to both bend and double flare...

 

[HPSimpson]

Mike, that very interesting using Copper Nickel alloy tubing sure beats the devil out of steel lines, much easier to work with, thanks for the tip!

 

[JR]

Maybe fab up a new line using Copper/Nickel alloy tubing. We have switched to that up here in corrosion country and it is far easier to both bend and double flare...

I won't use anything else. It's truly fantastic material against corrosion and so easy to work with you can make minor bends and change of direction with some gentle messaging by hand.
Of course short radius bends are best done with a bender

This is the material I get local. Made in 'Murica

 

[Cummins12V98]

Ok here is how you should run your lines IMHO.

I just braved cold winds on concrete at a Truck Stop heading West on 20 in TX. I’m heading for AZ to warm up.

First pic looking forward DS front then to right PS then rear DS then to PS rear.

loaded out of order. Swap one and two.

 

[Wiredawg]

Thanks Ron,

Interestingly, right rear had no issues, but was rubbing RV frame and suspension frame, but barely showed signs of wear. I'm stopping now before I kink a line and assess it. I pointed the brake line bracket down, but the darned bias when brake hose connected to the caliper will rub the tire when suspension compresses, so thinking about putting back the way it was. Frustrated, so will jack up, place six 12 ton jack stands under it, remove the tire, grind the sharp edges off the frames, paint em, and put it back the way it was. Short of a major redo, the way factory had is the best config with current parts.

I'll study yours some more before making final decision.

Cheers and thanks again,

Ron

 

[Cummins12V98]

I am warm now parked at a HUGE Texas Rest Area inside RV for the night with the Gen running with heat on.

You are welcome.