Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
I thought that I would save someone some time and aggravation if they are going to install this pump. The directions are not worthless, but there is a better and easier way to install this pump with just a few modifications. I have 1998.5 3500 Dually. It's 100% stock with the original lift pump. With 138,000 miles and no fuel pressure gauge, I was a bit nervous and wanted to avoid an issue.
1. I did not remove the starter, but that would have resulted in a lot less cuts and scrapes. There are a lot of sharp edges going from the top. Wear long sleeves and possibly gloves. I didn't with predictable results. I did change the fuel filter at the same time so the housing was out of the way. I also took out the top hold down bolt for the oil dipstick so that I could get it out of the way.
2. The fuel line from the pump to the lines to the tank is a PVC affair with a hose loosely covering it. The new pump comes with an inline fuel fuel filter that the directions tell you to install about 8" back from the pump. This is basically where the line becomes straight. You will need to cut it with a hack saw. If you bend this PVC line, it will crimp and cause a restriction. The filter comes with two pieces of hose and two clamps. You will need to measure the filter with the hoses attached and cut out a portion of the PVC line for installation of the filter and eventual reconnection of the fuel disconnect fitting to the inlet fuel line so that your line does not become crimped. If you don't, your line will be 4"-5" too long, and you can't force the connection.
3. After you have removed the old pump, go ahead and cut the fuel line where the directions indicate. Do not throw the quick disconnect away. Remove enough of the hose covering the PVC line so that you can install the hose that came with the filter. Use oil on the hose and push it onto the PVC line. The filter will not install into the PVC line. Use a clamp, but do not over tighten. Do the same to the other end.
4. In installing the DDRP the directions tell you to put the screw into the beveled hole as a guide for the support bracket. The screw must go through the support bracket. However, the directions tell you to install the pump and then install the support bracket. The bracket will not fit between the pump housing and the end of the guide screw, and you cannot loosen the screw with the pump installed. The directions also tell you to install the rear (inlet) bango bolt after you install the pump. Ridiculous. You're dealing with two copper washers on either side of the inlet line, and you cannot see them. You will drop, lose, and cuss at them. If you've cut the line and have the 8" PVC connection line, just install everything before you install the pump on the bracket.
5. Install the pump and install the filter into the line. You already have the hoses installed on either end. You'll need two more clamps. Make sure that everything is properly tightened down.
6. I blead the system in the manner set out in the shop manual. The directions don't tell you to this, but if you get air into the pump, you may have a starting issue and end up with more that a simple bleed. The procedure is messy, but effective. The engine cranked 5-7 seconds and started right up with no issues. Once the engine started, I shut it down and cleaned up the diesel fuel with Simple Green and a hose. I then restarted the engine and checked for leaks.
7. I installed an ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge at the same time. I apparently do not have the right wiring diagram and could not easily find the dimmer circuit. I did find the fuse but no good way to get to the wire. So, I just went to the headlight switch. It's a 14 g tan wire in the left front of the plug. If you have an automatic, there is already a grommet through the firewall for a clutch. I just drilled a hole in the grommet for the wires from the sending unit to the gauge.
8. I'm getting 17-18 psi at idle, 12 psi during hard acceleration, and 14-15 psi running 70 mph. I'm very happy and have some piece of mind that the pump is doing its job.
9. The directions list a spring as part of the package. I believe that was the spring that FASS used to include to solve a low pressure issue. You took out the one that the pump came with and installed the other. Don't waste time looking for it. It's not there, and you don't need it.
This would have been a lot easier to install this way. I removed the pump twice to do this. It's a fairly straight forward job, but the directions could have been better. Hindsight is 20/20. I'm sure that the folks who do this more than once have already figured it out. For those of you hope to do it only once, I hope this makes the job a little easier.
1. I did not remove the starter, but that would have resulted in a lot less cuts and scrapes. There are a lot of sharp edges going from the top. Wear long sleeves and possibly gloves. I didn't with predictable results. I did change the fuel filter at the same time so the housing was out of the way. I also took out the top hold down bolt for the oil dipstick so that I could get it out of the way.
2. The fuel line from the pump to the lines to the tank is a PVC affair with a hose loosely covering it. The new pump comes with an inline fuel fuel filter that the directions tell you to install about 8" back from the pump. This is basically where the line becomes straight. You will need to cut it with a hack saw. If you bend this PVC line, it will crimp and cause a restriction. The filter comes with two pieces of hose and two clamps. You will need to measure the filter with the hoses attached and cut out a portion of the PVC line for installation of the filter and eventual reconnection of the fuel disconnect fitting to the inlet fuel line so that your line does not become crimped. If you don't, your line will be 4"-5" too long, and you can't force the connection.
3. After you have removed the old pump, go ahead and cut the fuel line where the directions indicate. Do not throw the quick disconnect away. Remove enough of the hose covering the PVC line so that you can install the hose that came with the filter. Use oil on the hose and push it onto the PVC line. The filter will not install into the PVC line. Use a clamp, but do not over tighten. Do the same to the other end.
4. In installing the DDRP the directions tell you to put the screw into the beveled hole as a guide for the support bracket. The screw must go through the support bracket. However, the directions tell you to install the pump and then install the support bracket. The bracket will not fit between the pump housing and the end of the guide screw, and you cannot loosen the screw with the pump installed. The directions also tell you to install the rear (inlet) bango bolt after you install the pump. Ridiculous. You're dealing with two copper washers on either side of the inlet line, and you cannot see them. You will drop, lose, and cuss at them. If you've cut the line and have the 8" PVC connection line, just install everything before you install the pump on the bracket.
5. Install the pump and install the filter into the line. You already have the hoses installed on either end. You'll need two more clamps. Make sure that everything is properly tightened down.
6. I blead the system in the manner set out in the shop manual. The directions don't tell you to this, but if you get air into the pump, you may have a starting issue and end up with more that a simple bleed. The procedure is messy, but effective. The engine cranked 5-7 seconds and started right up with no issues. Once the engine started, I shut it down and cleaned up the diesel fuel with Simple Green and a hose. I then restarted the engine and checked for leaks.
7. I installed an ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge at the same time. I apparently do not have the right wiring diagram and could not easily find the dimmer circuit. I did find the fuse but no good way to get to the wire. So, I just went to the headlight switch. It's a 14 g tan wire in the left front of the plug. If you have an automatic, there is already a grommet through the firewall for a clutch. I just drilled a hole in the grommet for the wires from the sending unit to the gauge.
8. I'm getting 17-18 psi at idle, 12 psi during hard acceleration, and 14-15 psi running 70 mph. I'm very happy and have some piece of mind that the pump is doing its job.
9. The directions list a spring as part of the package. I believe that was the spring that FASS used to include to solve a low pressure issue. You took out the one that the pump came with and installed the other. Don't waste time looking for it. It's not there, and you don't need it.
This would have been a lot easier to install this way. I removed the pump twice to do this. It's a fairly straight forward job, but the directions could have been better. Hindsight is 20/20. I'm sure that the folks who do this more than once have already figured it out. For those of you hope to do it only once, I hope this makes the job a little easier.
