I dont mean to pop the top on the worm can, but...
I bought my 2001 truck with no rust, and live in central Indiana. I have it treated with "Corrosion Free" mineral oil yearly. The truck has a layer of crud underneath (it is supposed to), but zero underside rust. I highly recommend this if you drive in salt.
I put around 15,000 miles a year on my truck. Current Mileage is 265k.
I change both fuel filters on the Fass right before winter. I run Howes fuel additive year round.
I run T4 Rotella 15w40 and change it between 3000 and 5000 miles. I get maybe a 1/8 cup in the blow by catch per oil change. I am staying with the Dino oil and my current oil change interval because it seems to be working. I doubt the synthetics' advantage vs. the added cost, and realize I could be mistaken.
I serviced the transmission and changed the cooler hoses and coolant in 2023, both diffs were also done. I have not done the transfer case.
Opinions on my maintenance routine?
Thanks. Gary
I bought my 2001 truck with no rust, and live in central Indiana. I have it treated with "Corrosion Free" mineral oil yearly. The truck has a layer of crud underneath (it is supposed to), but zero underside rust. I highly recommend this if you drive in salt.
I put around 15,000 miles a year on my truck. Current Mileage is 265k.
I change both fuel filters on the Fass right before winter. I run Howes fuel additive year round.
I run T4 Rotella 15w40 and change it between 3000 and 5000 miles. I get maybe a 1/8 cup in the blow by catch per oil change. I am staying with the Dino oil and my current oil change interval because it seems to be working. I doubt the synthetics' advantage vs. the added cost, and realize I could be mistaken.
I serviced the transmission and changed the cooler hoses and coolant in 2023, both diffs were also done. I have not done the transfer case.
Opinions on my maintenance routine?
Thanks. Gary