Fuel filter condition monitoring

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Then Do It... ... ... ... ..... You Claim To be an expert..... Don't stand Behind a Keyboard. Name the Place and I will be there. Your Post shows Exactly what YOU are when some one challenges Your Knowledge... YOU CALL ME BY NAME ,BUT I HAVE NEVER SEEN YOU CALL BY YOUR NAME. Why would I share info with YOU, you ask for info that anyone should KNOW would be privileged. What would YOU call That?
 
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STOP JUST STOP I have had a complaint from the round card girls and they are getting just a little nervous about coming into the ring because you guys are having to much fun.



I dont know about the rest of the TDR members but I would like to see a knock down drag-out DOG FIGHT. I play the guitar and do a little singing. I have a new song title and need a video for it to be complete. the name of the song is





I WOULDNT TAKE HER TO A DOG FIGHT

( Even if she had a chance to win )



So let me know when/where/and I will be there for both of you :D
 
These are the ones that aren't afraid and will be the girlfriend of the winner so who is the winner :-laf:-laf



Todd's truck is more powerful than mine and has more wheels. He wins! He wins! :eek::eek: I'm gonna go wrestle my wife for the remote, I stand a chance of winning that contest. :D





Bignasty you are just... just... . NASTY!!!! :-laf:-laf
 
As the guy who started this thread, other than all the fightin' words, it's actually been useful (to me). It's kinda interestin' how some of it turned into a urinary olympics. As far as those two gals go, when they haul *****, it's gotta take 'em at least three trips.....



I'm still interested in finding a way to only change my filters when I need to, to get the best filtering they can provide. I've still got to look into that differential pressure gauge referenced earlier. If anybody wants to continue adding USEFUL info/suggesstions to that end, please continue.



Steve
 
Steve,

I am glad your having as much fun as we are. The simple fact is that the OEM LP provides about 8 psi of fuel pressure, thru a regulator. If you watch fuel pressure after each filter you can see where the pressure drop is occurring. With the known OEM pressure and 2 filters you could use 2 gauges. One post each filter. So if your pressure at WOT was 6-2 you would know the 2um is dirty, or if it was 4-4 you would know the OEM was dirty. A 3rd gauge before any filter would tell you what the output is, but on a regulated pump system is not necessary, and new filters will tell you what fueling demands do to pressure (i. e. 8 at idle, 7. 5 cruise, 6. 5 passing, 5. 0 WOT) and then look at your other gauges to know what the filters are doing.

But in all honestly filters don't last forever and changing them all at the same time and based off a single psi gauge is plenty, and cheaper in the long run. One gauge between the "2um" and CP3 will tell you your delivery pressure and state of your filters. If the pressure at WOT drops then you change them both out and don't worry about it.

But if you really want to monitor 2 or 3 fuel pressure gauges then have at it, but for normal use I don't think it's needed or warranted. Run them until you get a 2-3 psi drop WOT or 30K miles and call it good. I have had one set go 30K miles and the other 20K miles, and now just plan to do it at the 2-3 psi drop or 18 months as I only drive about 7-8K miles a year.
 
Here's picture of a 5. 9 CP3 internal screen Filter,To remove it all 5. 9 CP3 that have it require drilling and tapping for removal,All fuel going to the HP side of the pumps that have it MUST travel this passage (Not all 5. 9 CP3s have it) all 6. 7 & LBZ pumps you can just extract the filter. This small filter can cause much heartache and misery,Its is collapsed and metal flakes are attach to it,The Gear Pump on this unit was in like New condition, the host had removed the factory filter and installed X brand dual filters. This filter is ALWAYS under pressure,What cause it to collapse, IMO the debris cover enough surface area to push inward until the HP side started to create vacuum. . its not long after that rail pressure lost starts. This filter will have an effect on all return rates (Kinda Puts a lop hope in return rates) add a modded system or Pump and those return rates will go:eek:. MY opinion and stands is Direct injection filters are NOT 100% effective. SJBrooks 99% of all fuel is good,why would anyone want to pump the 1% into the Injection system. Spin a quality BYPASS or AUXILIARY filter on any electric (Direct Injection) pump thats manufactured today will kill it in short order. SJBrooks If you want to know the more on Please call.
 
Here's picture of a 5. 9 CP3 internal screen Filter,To remove it all 5. 9 CP3 that have it require drilling and tapping for removal,All fuel going to the HP side of the pumps that have it MUST travel this passage (Not all 5. 9 CP3s have it) all 6. 7 & LBZ pumps you can just extract the filter. This small filter can cause much heartache and misery,Its is collapsed and metal flakes are attach to it,The Gear Pump on this unit was in like New condition, the host had removed the factory filter and installed X brand dual filters. This filter is ALWAYS under pressure,What cause it to collapse, IMO the debris cover enough surface area to push inward until the HP side started to create vacuum. . its not long after that rail pressure lost starts. This filter will have an effect on all return rates (Kinda Puts a lop hope in return rates) add a modded system or Pump and those return rates will go:eek:. MY opinion and stands is Direct injection filters are NOT 100% effective. SJBrooks 99% of all fuel is good,why would anyone want to pump the 1% into the Injection system. Spin a quality BYPASS or AUXILIARY filter on any electric (Direct Injection) pump thats manufactured today will kill it in short order. SJBrooks If you want to know the more on Please call.



Todd,



Is that something I should remove and clean after 100K on my 6. 7?



Thanks!
 
No the 6. 7 is Much Better... 300K. . at that point I Recommend R/R the hole Pump, with New wear parts, Seals and O-rings,It will go another 300K if kept clean. Th3 5. 9 should be freshen up also at 300K,if it makes that far, and allot do.
 
No the filter should go 300K for Both 5. 9/6. 7 at this point if the pump makes it they should be R/R with New Wear parts ,Seals and O-rings,if kept clean it will go another 300K.
 
But in all honestly filters don't last forever and changing them all at the same time and based off a single psi gauge is plenty, and cheaper in the long run.



This is what I do. And I'm the first guy to tell you that you don't want to change filters too often, because as they accumulate a little dirt they actually filter better.



Given the cost per filter, it's just not worth it to me to mess around trying to determine the ideal change time. I change both my fuel filters at 300 engine hours and call it a day. For me, that's every couple years.



And what's wrong with the photo of those women BIGNASTY posted has nothing to do with the women and everything to do with the fact that someone made 2 piece bikinis in that size.



-Ryan
 
Wow that was a long thread..... So here's the deal... ... Go to Geno's they have the drilled and tapped Bango bolt that you need to tap into the fuel supply line coming from the fuel filter going into the CP3 pump. install the bolt on the CP3 pump inlet tap your gauge here, it's the only location that you need to monitor fuel pressure. In short as long as you have positive pressure at this location life is good. As soon as the pressure drops to anything close to 1-2 psi under heavy load stop and change your filter. There is NO time line as to how long filters will last. Fuel quality/ cleanly-ness, unless you have a very good supplier, is not a given. This applies for all Common Rail systems used on our 5. 9 and 6. 7 trucks.
 
Here's picture of a 5. 9 CP3 internal screen Filter,To remove it all 5. 9 CP3 that have it require drilling and tapping for removal,All fuel going to the HP side of the pumps that have it MUST travel this passage (Not all 5. 9 CP3s have it) all 6. 7 & LBZ pumps you can just extract the filter. This small filter can cause much heartache and misery,Its is collapsed and metal flakes are attach to it,The Gear Pump on this unit was in like New condition, the host had removed the factory filter and installed X brand dual filters. This filter is ALWAYS under pressure,What cause it to collapse, IMO the debris cover enough surface area to push inward until the HP side started to create vacuum. . its not long after that rail pressure lost starts. This filter will have an effect on all return rates (Kinda Puts a lop hope in return rates) add a modded system or Pump and those return rates will go:eek:. MY opinion and stands is Direct injection filters are NOT 100% effective. SJBrooks 99% of all fuel is good,why would anyone want to pump the 1% into the Injection system. Spin a quality BYPASS or AUXILIARY filter on any electric (Direct Injection) pump thats manufactured today will kill it in short order. SJBrooks If you want to know the more on Please call.



Well TC is correct here, but for the wrong reason. The filter inside the CP3 is collapsed because debris plugged the inlet side if the screen. The CP3 pulled a vacuum on the filter because of the restriction and it collapsed the screen. No low pressure gauge would have measured this loss of pressure/flow because the restriction is inside the pump. The only thing you would see would be a loss of power and/or loss of rail pressure.

So the moral of the story is, keep good quality filters in place and change them often (every 15,000 to keep warranty), or monitor their condition and change as required.
 
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