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G56 clutch won’t disengage

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No slippage, can’t recall if noise is still there with clutch pedal press to the floor. Transmission already has Castrol syntrans 75w-85 I switched it over before I started hauling heavy. Also added a cooler with fan, filter, pump to circulate and cool the oil. Made a big difference, before oil would get over 200 degrees now it sits around 150 highest it’s gotten was just under 180.
 
Just because your're deleted doesn't mean there isn't a warranty.

It might not hurt to take it in and ask.
 
Just because your're deleted doesn't mean there isn't a warranty.

It might not hurt to take it in and ask.
I bought it from a used dealer. They told me it’s a Canadian truck and I don’t have any manufacture warranty. Also I denied the dealer warranty that was offered but in my defense their warranty didn’t cover clutch’s anyways. Pretty sure a delete will void any warranty.
Anyways, installed the new hydraulics but sadly same problem, even though the pedal did feel a lot more firm. Did find what looked like clutch material on the rod from the slave cylinder that pushes the clutch fork. Didn’t smell like clutch though. Transmission is ready to come out just need to run to harbor freight for a transmission jack. Thanks for all the input, I’ll keep you guys updated.
 
Quick question, should I go for the organic or ceramic dual disk clutch. They are same price, I’ve driven manual transmissions sense I started driving so I’m pretty good with feeling the pedal. I just want which ever one will hold up best to towing heavy. Thanks
 
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So got the transmission pulled. Definitely a problem with the dual mass flywheel. When I shake it or spin it, it makes noise like pieces of metal are moving around in it. Also found bites of metal in the bell housing of the transmission (clutch area). Oh well once I get a proper clutch and flywheel in, truck will be ready to tow heavy. I was impressed with how the truck pulled grades even loaded around 28k lbs and loved the fact that I hardly needed to use the breaks going down (exhaust brake). Still need to figure out which clutch material I want to go with.
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Gary will know for sure, but organic to me has more "feel" on takeup. Also, at my buddy's machine shop, flywheels that came in for surfacing that were run with ceramic discs showed much more wear, and were beyond salvaging much more frequently. Ceramic facings last a long time, but eat up the flywheel, at least from what I have seen.
 
Nice work....that said, I just gots to ask...

Are those PLASTIC ramps the frony of your truck is sitting on ??

And if so, what are they rated for and who makes em??
 
Wow...I would be soooo skeptical of using those on my truck, but they get only 4 and 5 star reviews on the HF website, incising ones by other truck owners who were ALSO skeptical of using them on their 1 ton trucks and also expected to get killed by them, yet they survived and are leaving 5 star reviews!! LOL
Might have to get myself a pair for when I don't want to use the Snap On pin type jack stands that are over rated at 10 tons per pair, which I KNOW is overkill, but I prefer overkill to being killed !!!
 
Wow...I would be soooo skeptical of using those on my truck, but they get only 4 and 5 star reviews on the HF website, incising ones by other truck owners who were ALSO skeptical of using them on their 1 ton trucks and also expected to get killed by them, yet they survived and are leaving 5 star reviews!! LOL
Might have to get myself a pair for when I don't want to use the Snap On pin type jack stands that are over rated at 10 tons per pair, which I KNOW is overkill, but I prefer overkill to being killed !!!
They are actually rated for more then the metal ones. They are reinforced and actually built pretty sturdy. I didn’t have any doubt laying under the truck and even jacked up the rear end to get the transmission out from under the truck. I like how light the g56 transmission is compared to the nv5600 we recently swapped into my buddies 12 valve. That was a heavy b!tch.
 
A little off topic but here’s some pics of doing a swap from a ford school bus after the kdp took out my buddies original 12 valve. Was told by the previous owner it was tabbed. Should have spent the hour to check. Lesson learned. On the plus side the school bus motor came with a Enton fuller and sae2 bell housing

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Transmission already has Castrol syntrans 75w-85 I switched it over before I started hauling heavy. Also added a cooler with fan, filter, pump to circulate and cool the oil. Made a big difference, before oil would get over 200 degrees now it sits around 150 highest it’s gotten was just under 180.
I know where your coming from, but many members here claim their G56 doesn’t get hot, with my 50wt and only 15K GCW it got up to 250*. I also developed a trans cooler, can you post some pictures?
 
Pics haven't shown shown possible cause for failure to release that I can see.
Something is definitely wrong with the dual mass flywheel. Like a said it makes noise moving it. Also you can see some damage on to the springs in the dmf. Transmission seems fine, no main bearing play trying to move the input shaft front to back. Also fluid drained from transmission seemed clean. Inside transmission looks good to.
 
I’ll posts pics of mine when I get to my Cruise Ship, I’m just north of Anchorage at the moment, in route to Seward Alaska, I have a pump, filter and use the OEM auto transmission heat exchanger.
 
Got the dual disk in. Truck is shifting, really not that loud with the dual disk and single mass flywheel. Went with the organic, should have gone with the ceramic I think. Pedal feels as soft as stock. Anyways really happy all it was is the dual mass flywheel. Thanks for all the input.
 
Unless you’re hot-rodding or have a substantial amount of HP over stock the clutch you have will serve you best. Pedal pressure doesn’t have anything do do with holding power with the clutch you have. Make sure you break it in properly and you’ll be very pleased.
 
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