Attention: TDR Forum Junkies ... well, almost. Still need to install the trans temp sending unit and hook it up, and cut my dash mat to fit around the pod, but everything else is done. All I have to say is..... what a pain!!!!
Had to remove the turbo from the truck to get the housing off - couldn't get a good swing with it still in place. Secured it in the vise, used a longer bolt and a piece of 1/2" flat steel to get it moving, then a BFRM (big friggin' rubber mallet) to get it off the rest of the way. Didn't give me too much of a problem - whacked on it a few times and it didn't budge, but once the bolt broke it loose it only took a few hits and it was off.
While the turbo was off I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for the thermocouple. Other than taking about four tries to get the hole tapped the right depth - didn't want to go too far
- it was pretty simple.
I used the existing plug in the intake manifold for the boost gauge - didn't have to drill or modify the bracket like some people have... maybe that's only an issue with the non-intercooled trucks???? I overtightened the fitting and crimped the plastic tubing the first time, so I had to make a run to Ace for a new ferrule (or whatever that funky little brass ring is called).
The real ordeal came when it was time to run the wires and tubing - I hate working under the dash! I was a little hesitant to drill a hole in the top of the dash, but really didn't want to run the split loom down the front... yeah, I'm picky. I finally got everything run and hooked up, losing a few ounces of skin in the process... not to mention the aches and pains from trying to fit my body between the seat and brake pedal, cram my arms up under the dash, and do my Exorcist impression trying to see what the heck I was doing - skipped the projectile vomiting, though. 
Did I mention I hate working under the dash? I also found out that a 60-watt bulb in a metal-shielded drop light makes a great branding iron.
After putting the dash back together and stopping any major bleeding, I took the truck out for a short ride to see what the gauges said:
Max boost: ~17 psi
Max EGT: ~950-1000*
Boost at 75 MPH cruise: ~4 psi
EGT at 75 MPH cruise: ~700-750*
I was really surprised at how fast the EGT reacts to any change in throttle - heck, when I started the truck and it jumped to just under 200* I was wondering if I screwed something up. After driving it a little I'm pretty sure my readings are within the normal range. The 16cm housing did seem to make a noticable difference, but I'll have to wait until I drive it a little more to know just how much.
The biggest bummer of the day is that I wasn't able to track down the #$%& rattle I have somewhere under the dash or firewall area. It's been driving me nuts for the past month but I can't figure it out. Pretty bad when the rattle is louder than the stereo..... :{
I'm not sure what to do about the trans sending unit. The "T" fitting I bought is too wide to fit between the lines, so I'm considering installing the new sending unit in place of the factory one. As long as I keep an eye on the temp gauge and kick it out of overdrive when appropriate I think I'll be fine. The only concern I have is whether removing the factory S/U will cause the transmission to not shift into OD.
Anyway, here is a pic of the gauges installed - the pod is from U. S. Gear.
#ad
(Hmmm... for whatever reason, the pic isn't showing up. )
Had to remove the turbo from the truck to get the housing off - couldn't get a good swing with it still in place. Secured it in the vise, used a longer bolt and a piece of 1/2" flat steel to get it moving, then a BFRM (big friggin' rubber mallet) to get it off the rest of the way. Didn't give me too much of a problem - whacked on it a few times and it didn't budge, but once the bolt broke it loose it only took a few hits and it was off.
While the turbo was off I drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for the thermocouple. Other than taking about four tries to get the hole tapped the right depth - didn't want to go too far
- it was pretty simple. I used the existing plug in the intake manifold for the boost gauge - didn't have to drill or modify the bracket like some people have... maybe that's only an issue with the non-intercooled trucks???? I overtightened the fitting and crimped the plastic tubing the first time, so I had to make a run to Ace for a new ferrule (or whatever that funky little brass ring is called).
The real ordeal came when it was time to run the wires and tubing - I hate working under the dash! I was a little hesitant to drill a hole in the top of the dash, but really didn't want to run the split loom down the front... yeah, I'm picky.
I finally got everything run and hooked up, losing a few ounces of skin in the process... not to mention the aches and pains from trying to fit my body between the seat and brake pedal, cram my arms up under the dash, and do my Exorcist impression trying to see what the heck I was doing - skipped the projectile vomiting, though. Did I mention I hate working under the dash? I also found out that a 60-watt bulb in a metal-shielded drop light makes a great branding iron. After putting the dash back together and stopping any major bleeding, I took the truck out for a short ride to see what the gauges said:
Max boost: ~17 psi
Max EGT: ~950-1000*
Boost at 75 MPH cruise: ~4 psi
EGT at 75 MPH cruise: ~700-750*
I was really surprised at how fast the EGT reacts to any change in throttle - heck, when I started the truck and it jumped to just under 200* I was wondering if I screwed something up. After driving it a little I'm pretty sure my readings are within the normal range. The 16cm housing did seem to make a noticable difference, but I'll have to wait until I drive it a little more to know just how much.
The biggest bummer of the day is that I wasn't able to track down the #$%& rattle I have somewhere under the dash or firewall area. It's been driving me nuts for the past month but I can't figure it out. Pretty bad when the rattle is louder than the stereo..... :{
I'm not sure what to do about the trans sending unit. The "T" fitting I bought is too wide to fit between the lines, so I'm considering installing the new sending unit in place of the factory one. As long as I keep an eye on the temp gauge and kick it out of overdrive when appropriate I think I'll be fine. The only concern I have is whether removing the factory S/U will cause the transmission to not shift into OD.
Anyway, here is a pic of the gauges installed - the pod is from U. S. Gear.
(Hmmm... for whatever reason, the pic isn't showing up. )
If I would've been thinking I would've done the shift lever/OD switch at the same time. Oh, well - at least I know how to get the plug loose from the message center now. 
