Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) got the pacbrake working now what to expect.

[ed9824v]

I freed up the frozen blade on the packbrake and then cleaned and got the vacuum solenoid working now I really can't tell it is working. I can see the arm on the vacuum cylinder extending, I can see the arm in the turbo turning I can hear a flutter and fill a restriction of gas at the tail pipe< BUT I do not see much change when I go down a hill on a road near my house and energize the pack brake, can hear it working but not a noticeable slowing. not sure what to expect. What has been your experience.

 

[Boondocker]

Hopefully your brake is working. I think that some people who are new to exhaust brakes expect too much. They enhance engine compression on deceleration to improve engine braking. They will retard your downhill decent, especially important when towing.

Exhaust brakes are not thrust reversers like on a jet aircraft. In other words, you won't slam your head on the steering wheel when it engages

 

[BradG]

i have a jacobs vacaum acctuated ex brake that sounds just like the pacbrake on my 93. the instructions say it works best at 3100rpm and i notice it doesn't due alot under 1500 but over 2000 it works great, doesn't compare with the real jake brake on my mack but i barely use the brakes on the dodge.

 

[ScottLewis]

Both the BD brake on my '98 and the Jacobs on my '06 have a threaded port which allows for install of a pressure guage to show how much pressure the brake is developing at various speeds. Almost any gauge will work as long as the tubing to it is long enough to dissipate the heat before it reaches the gauge. I recommend you try one to help you learn how it works. It also helps to to make adjustments where possible.



Dan

 

[ed9824v]

i have a jacobs vacaum acctuated ex brake that sounds just like the pacbrake on my 93. the instructions say it works best at 3100rpm and i notice it doesn't due alot under 1500 but over 2000 it works great, doesn't compare with the real jake brake on my mack but i barely use the brakes on the dodge.

thanks for the replys, I did not test it much above 1500 rpm and I will take the time to try and free the allen bolt in the sleeve b4 the packbrake and get a reading on the pressure build up. We were expecting a lot of drag. I will do some experimenting soon thanks ED

 

[WrenchRat]

Ed, once you sort how how you like to operate your E-brake, you will LOVE it! It takes a little experimenting to sort it out. If you tow anything of size, you will wonder why E-brakes are not offered as standard equipment.

In my interstate mountain driving on up to 6% grades with loads in the 6k-8k range, very often I don't even have to use the service brakes! If I do hit the service brakes, it's to adjust the speed down a little and then back to the letting the E-brake work. No smoking, flaming or faded service brakes!

A TERRIFIC safety item for towing and is worth EVERY penny!Oo. The E-brake has saved my kiester more than once in an 'full binder', all anchors out stop.

 

[SnoKing]

Couple things you have to learn like someone else point out. You have to go over a cerntain speed to activate the DTT smart controller. So Watch the lights on the front of it. Also the higher the RPM the more braking! There are adjustment that have to be made to the smart controller. You have tall tires, what gears do you have. Try locking transmission into second gear, DTT puts a switch on the linkage to force second gear lockup. Run up in second gear to 31--35 until you see the smart controller active and then let up, and you should really feel the EB working.



SNOKING

 

[ed9824v]

well I went through about 20 or more threads on a packbrake search and learn a lot of what you all are telling me and the braking horsepower is related to the rpm. I was checking this thing out all wrong and my boy and I were expecting the truck to slow to a stop while going about 20mph down our long dirt drive way then the highway at only 1800 rpm 70mph in overdrive with the 35 tires and 3. 50 or close gears. I did have a problem with the smart controller a white wire was wired to the brake controller and every time the ebrake was turned on it set off an array of check engine codes. I called a number for HTT and I was told that may occur on California vehicles. I cut the wire and no more codes after we cleared them. The packbrake also says that it can be wired to the computer on 1998. 5 with them programing the computer or wire exactly how it is know with the switch hot with ignition and micro switch on the pedal. Later years the computer is ready for the brake setup. We do pull a 30foot 9000lb trailer in the Sierras that has lots of steep hills and will take advantage of the system and will use it regularly to keep it free.



The next question is the smarty lockup controller I got no information on that unit with the truck purchase. If you have any or a source for the information I will gladly research it. The HTT people didn't say much about it when I called it is under the seat and didn't realize it may have some lights or other indicators on it. Thanks ED

 

[DNewell]

Here's my . 02. With my Pacbrake, i get lots of braking power when above 2k RPM. With my 5th wheel on behind, I'm generally grossed out just over 19k and when I shift down through the gears, I can almost bring her to a stop, but obviously it will keep moving in 2nd at idle. the higher the RPMs, more braking. I've pegged the tach at around 3500 coming down some scary hills, and the truck and trailer slow down nicely.

I primarily leave it on all the time because it helps in stop and go traffic very well. Since I have a NV4500, it's a little easier to shift down than the auto transmission. Besides, it makes a gripload of noise with my straight exhaust and I believe drives other drivers around me nuts Keep the butterfly valve well lubricated and keep using it. Once you have the chance to get out and use it, you'll learn to love it.