Governor spring... pandora's box?

[MMeier]

Mine with no load (N) will rev to 2700 RPM's. But falls on its face about 2200 otherwise.

 

[Moab4x4]

I still think that 366 was the cheapest, easiest, fastest upgrade I have done. Those extra legs sure come in handy.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...1-governor-spring-ve-info-threads-merged.html

Ken

 

[Greenleaf]

My engine(s) will rev to "just shy of" 4,000 because I have never pushed them past that.



They sound sort of funny after 3,200 or so.

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

Greenleaf, you did that thing where you snip a ring or two off the spring and rebend the end to hook again, right? Did you replace your valve springs or are the stock ones ok at the rpms your pushing?

 

[JGrefenstette]

good question about the valve springs tippin, i was gonna ask the same thing. mine seems to have nice power from 2000-2500rpms. i just hate to push it past 2500rpm. sounds wiked loud. im just not used to hearing a diesel windup like that. im used to john deeres that wont go much over 2000-2200 at max.



also tippin, is there any power differnce before 2800rpms with the 366 spring? or is all it does is allow you to take the rpms up much higher? does the motor have power up there in that high of an rpm range??

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

Well, in my given situation, I gained more power throughout the entire rpm band... considerably more power... absurd power increase. I'm not sure what you all have done to your truck right now, but that will probably effect how much and at what rpm you gain power.



Don't worry about winding it past 2500, when your engine gets up to about 2700-2800 it just won't have enough power to move the truck any faster, this is due to the fact that instead of a rev limiter like a gasser, that governor spring just defuels the pump at higher rpms. You just hit a point where your foot is at the floor and your truck won't speed up anymore... won't hurt anything though.

 

[Greenleaf]

I have 60# springs.



I have modified some springs as you mention. However the one in there now is a simple 366 with modified linkages.

 

[PToombs]

If you're going to wind it over 3k very often, replace all with 60# springs. Guys with exhaust brakes just do the exhaust springs.

Mine pulls right to 3500. The dyno says it drops off after 28-2900, but it feels like its pulling all the way. When it hits 3500, done! I did hit 3700 on the dyno, but it was just noise.

The 366 makes the weights work harder all thru the band. So you get more fuel all thru the band.

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

Are the 60lb springs a pretty time consuming job? And while I'm in there, has anyone experimented with performance cams? Is it still a streetable truck with something like the marine cams PDR sells?

 

[PToombs]

If you're doing springs, yer not near the cam! :-laf It took me about 3-4 hours. I didn't rush, and I have all the tools. I was doing the injectors at the same time, so I did them in firing order. I put a piece of wire in the injector hole to feel when I was on TDC, then I popped the keepers and pulled the springs. This way I could let the valves sit on the pistons to swap springs. Put a rag around the oil return holes in so you don't lose a keeper. I had to turn it over more this way, once for springs, and twice to adjust valve lash. But I was done once! I set clearance at . 008 and . 018. Not a bad job, but then I don't mind working on my diesel. The gasser on the other hand..... #@$%!

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

Yeah, I know its not near the cam, but I would imagine you have to pull all the springs, rockers, and pushrods, when you get a new cam... I thought...



I don't mind working on my diesel in summer... February is a whole 'nuther story...

 

[KOG]

Cam requires that you pull the lifters. That's a remarkably complex job on a Cummins. You really, really don't want to change the cam unless you're dead serious about a competition engine.

 

[Moab4x4]

Cam swap

I installed a PDR 1st gen cam when I pulled my motor from the donor before installed it in the truck. It isn't as much of a pain if you just flip the motor over before you pull the cam so gravity keeps the lifters in.

Actually that was the reason I did the cam when I did. I probably wouldn't do the cam again as I probably will never get to the levels where I need it. I just didn't know then as I was going from bone stock to ??? in one swoop.

I decided that while the engine was out and upside down is the time to swap a cam if you are going to do the job.

PDR cam does run great on the street. I cruise 90 on the freeway and get there in no time with ease and crawl on the rocks slow. I hear that cruising you run a tad warmer (600 ish) but under load you run cooler with that cam.



No complaints from my department on the cam, I just think that much over 300HP would not be a good idea for my self control, my drivetrain, or my teenagers.





on second thought... ... .....

 

[KOG]

Upside down does keep the lifters in, but flat tappet cams require new lifters when cam is changed.

 

[Greenleaf]

When I pull a cam to reuse in same engine, I lift the lifters with the wood dowel.



When I install the new springs, it's simply a matter of performing the job in fireing order. Set the valve on the top of the raised piston and use a good quality compressor. It has to be so that your not fighting the heater lines and injection lines. I made one with an elevated handle.



GL

 

[therabbittree]

tippin all those trans rebuilds . . you could of had had a built 47rh in there... why don't ya. . ? hopefully these aren't stocker . . or regular auto shops trans rebuilts . . cuz your gonna blow it again if it is.....

Thanks,

Deo

 

[dpuckett]

I believe my 366 spring would peg the tach (no load) if I let it. Mine pulls well to about 3000rpm with minimal throttle. Move the pedal about 1/2in, and it's valve float territory NOW. I need to get valve springs, but I just go easy on it for now.



I wont own another auto, unless it's already built, or cheap enough for me to drop 3-4K on a built transmission for it. Stock autos suck like a two-bit..... Oh you get the idea.



Daniel

 

[Tippin Spotted Cow]

Well, I went to the shop today to check out my transmission. The took me into the garage to show me how the last place I went to really screwed things up under there. Apparently they took a lot of short cuts in a lot of places and thats why the transmission blew twice after they got their hands on it. It was an englightening experience talking to these guys... I'm glad I picked a different shop this time...



Add to that, the first place charged me $2700, this place is doing it for $1800.

 

[therabbittree]

Is this a stock trans rebuild or what?... man for that $ in both theses presumably stock type rebuilds you could have hasd a built 47rh...

 

[JGrefenstette]

tippin, how big of a job was the spring to do?? how long did it take? do you have to remove the pump? is there anything that need to be replaced inorder to acces the spring?? (gaskets or seals)??