Grid heater

[BigPapa]

The problem isn't the grid heater and bolt, it's the relay.

 

[Topzide]

The problem isn't the grid heater and bolt, it's the relay.

But this setup from BMP, gets around the stuck relay with melted stub and nut! Would like to hear from those that have installed, has it trip any codes and those that have done the intake grid delete, better performance? A shame that a relay or solenoid can't be made to fit the bill without issues. Lot of current flowing through to the grid heater!

 

[BigPapa]

I'll say it again, with many hundreds of thousands of miles on over 600 6.7 powered school buses with the same grid heater, we've not had one do what the Rams have done. The buses have a different relay.

 

[Silver Tex]

I realize it’s “sales”, but the item I linked to states it retains emissions.
Big Papa, any chance the bus relay (that looks suspiciously like a solenoid) works on the RAM???

I think I’ll call BM to see what they say about the code Y or N, question.

TT - I might go ahead and be the Guinea pig.

I did see a decent idea on another site that shall not be named. The guy hooked up an LED to the relay that lit in the cab when the relay was triggered.

 

[Topzide]

I did see a decent idea on another site that shall not be named. The guy hooked up an LED to the relay that lit in the cab when the relay was triggered.

I believe this was also done by some of the 3rd Gen guys on here also. It's a good idea to see when they are on and cycling for those who want to know. 12v LED's of all colors are cheap on Ebay. I've gotten a bunch that have resistor built into the wiring and also have a plastic bezel.
Grid heater issues are as mentioned are few and far between. Just check the wiring and nut for looseness when checking under the hood fluids and whatnot.
I do like the BMP setup with being able to remove grid heater for better air flow. @Silver Tex, would be interesting to see what BMP has to say about codes.

 

[AH64ID]

So far all of the aftermarket grid heaters I’ve seen for the 6.7 are less powerful than the OEM one. Generally not an issue, since the stock programming using a lot more grid heater than needed, but something to be mindful of if you make the swap and use the truck in extreme cold.

I believe this was also done by some of the 3rd Gen guys on here also. It's a good idea to see when they are on and cycling for those who want to know. 12v LED's of all colors are cheap on Ebay. I've gotten a bunch that have resistor built into the wiring and also have a plastic bezel.
Grid heater issues are as mentioned are few and far between. Just check the wiring and nut for looseness when checking under the hood fluids and whatnot.
I do like the BMP setup with being able to remove grid heater for better air flow. @Silver Tex, would be interesting to see what BMP has to say about codes.

On all 3 of my CTD’s it was obvious by watching the voltmeter when the grid heater was active, even with the dual 220A alternators on the 2022. I can’t believe that it would be necessary to add anything to see when the grid heater is active.

 

[Topzide]

@AH64ID, Some people just want to have gadgets to add to their trucks! Just like it was back in the day with all the extra gauges! Yes on the volt gauge when they cycle! Need to clamp amp probe on the wire to see what it's pulling one of these times. You know the ol' saying, "your truck, your money". Have a good day John.

 

[Silver Tex]

So far all of the aftermarket grid heaters I’ve seen for the 6.7 are less powerful than the OEM one. Generally not an issue, since the stock programming using a lot more grid heater than needed, but something to be mindful of if you make the swap and use the truck in extreme cold.



On all 3 of my CTD’s it was obvious by watching the voltmeter when the grid heater was active, even with the dual 220A alternators on the 2022. I can’t believe that it would be necessary to add anything to see when the grid heater is active.

I did switch it over to the onscreen voltmeter and did watch it cycle from 14v to 12v. Good to know the aftermarket heaters are less powerful. Generally I won’t be in deep freeze temps and when I am I’ll usually plug it in. Up hunting there are no plug ins though…

 

[AH64ID]

@AH64ID, Some people just want to have gadgets to add to their trucks! Just like it was back in the day with all the extra gauges! Yes on the volt gauge when they cycle! Need to clamp amp probe on the wire to see what it's pulling one of these times. You know the ol' saying, "your truck, your money". Have a good day John.

I’m definitely a gadget guy, but I try not to be overly redundant or create problems where they don’t exist.

 

[BigPapa]

Big Papa, any chance the bus relay (that looks suspiciously like a solenoid) works on the RAM???

Whether or not it would work on a Ram, I don't know.

 

[Silver Tex]

Whether or not it would work on a Ram, I don't know.

View attachment 139037

Ha! This “looks” just like what’s on my truck. Don’t know if it functions with the PCM/ECM on the truck correctly.

 

[Silver Tex]

I believe this was also done by some of the 3rd Gen guys on here also. It's a good idea to see when they are on and cycling for those who want to know. 12v LED's of all colors are cheap on Ebay. I've gotten a bunch that have resistor built into the wiring and also have a plastic bezel.
Grid heater issues are as mentioned are few and far between. Just check the wiring and nut for looseness when checking under the hood fluids and whatnot.
I do like the BMP setup with being able to remove grid heater for better air flow. @Silver Tex, would be interesting to see what BMP has to say about codes.

Per Adam at BMP - this relocation kit will not cause a check engine light provided it is installed properly with good continuity.

 

[sag2]

I installed the Banks kit and until I could dyno it to confirm any increase I do not notice any difference with the OEM heater being removed. A stuck relay on a new truck can still melt the relocated heater on any of the kits like Banks or BMP.

 

[Silver Tex]

Whether or not it would work on a Ram, I don't know.

View attachment 139037

What brand are you using BigPapa? I believe I have isolated the issue to the relay and have either Wells or Rostra, unless I go to the dealership. Are there other manufacturers that should be considered?
Thanks,
Scott.

 

[BigPapa]

Sorry, busy day at work. This is what comes on the buses.

 

[Topzide]

Sorry, busy day at work. This is what comes on the buses.

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Good relay! Trombetta is a go to relay for high current draw on winches and the such! If you can fit it in, worth the upgrade for the money!

 

[Silver Tex]

Sorry, busy day at work. This is what comes on the buses.

View attachment 139081

View attachment 139082

I found this relay - $25 at PJ Power Inc. They have a continuous and intermittent duty option but only 150A current load with an 800A inrush. I was thinking the heater grid draws over 200A. I think I will call them tomorrow and discuss. More to come.

 

[Topzide]

Here's another option to look at; Amazon product ASIN B0859BZJNW

 

[AH64ID]

The problem isn't the grid heater and bolt, it's the relay.

This is only partially true. There are two different issues with the 6.7 grid heater system.

The bolt has been an extremely rare potential issue since 2007.5, if it comes loose it can melt off and end up in a cylinder.

Then there are the relay issues on some gen 4.5 trucks. The latest design looks good, no reason to put a different relay in when Ram will replace the potentially faulty one for free.

FWIW the bolt has appeared to cause more issues than the relay, but every truck has the bolt potential while only some Gen 4.5’s have the potential relay issue.

 

[BigPapa]

I thought we'd tackled all this before. Of course any fastener can loosen, but I thought it was discussed in other threads that the bolt melting was either a programming issue or a relay issue that keeps power to the heater long enough to melt the bolt. Did I miss or misunderstand what I read?

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/the-infamous-grid-heater-nut.272944/