Heater grid bolt failure

[Grumpy8811]

Actually, I think the amperage flow will be higher during post cycling with the higher voltage - for two reasons

* Ohm's Law - if the resistance is the same, then increasing voltage will increase current flow.

* With engine running, air flow across the heating element will lower the temperature, thus decreasing resistance, which in turn will increase current.

I think the lack of harm with post cycling is that the terminal in question will not get as hot because the massive amount of cooling air flowing across the terminal will protect the terminal from overheating.

- John

obvious, isn't it, when the one constant is the resistance.

 

[Turbo Terry]

The bd kit interests me at $200 but it’s beyond my skill set to install. Wonder how many hours my diesel shop should charge for an install ???

 

[Turbo Terry]

Another question I have is when I disconnected the 10 mm nut to disable the grid heater i got a check engine code which is ok but does it really affect anything else. That to me seems like the easiest solution. Just reconnect it if you needed to do a really cold start below zero ?

 

[Topzide]

@Turbo Terry, I would have to guess that a shop would charge between 3.5 - 5 hours to install. the fact that you have to pull injector lines, FCA, intake horn and the the intake plate. I like the heavier buss that they include with bolting through the rubber stand vs. the nut inside waiting to have an issue! If you weren't sooo far away, I'd be willing to turn the wrenches for you. Check around with some shops, and so them the kit on your phone or in the Genos catalog.

 

[petersonj]

Another question I have is when I disconnected the 10 mm nut to disable the grid heater i got a check engine code which is ok but does it really affect anything else.

I am assuming that the 10 mm nut was to the coil side of the grid heater relay? I am curious to know - did it set any warning light in the dash when you disconnected the wire?

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the grid heaters for years 2014 through 2024? Does anyone know if they all wired the same?

- John

 

[Turbo Terry]

Yes I had a check engine light until I reconnected it

 

[Turbo Terry]

$130 a hour shop time could get expensive

 

[Topzide]

Yes it could! But is the piece of mind that you get with the BD kit worth it? If it would fail, and I say "if", the $500 to $750 install cost is far better the the $30K + if it were to fail! I know the failure rate has winning the lottery odds, but if it were to happen to you, you'd wished you had spent the $1k for it to be installed!

@petersonj, I'll dig through my wiring diagrams of the 2014.

 

[Shiner]

From what I am understanding from all I’ve read and researched, the failure is caused by the high amp draw of the heater through the under-designed nut and stud. A sticking relay can compound this. How many relay “fixes” have been done? Bottom line, very bad design and even worse placement in the intake stream. I will not take that chance as that would be the only lottery I would “win”.

 

[petersonj]

I'll dig through my wiring diagrams of the 2014

Thank you!

- John

 

[Topzide]

@petersonj, This is what is in the wiring manual for my 2014. You'll have to zoom in on it to read it. Had to zoom out on the original to get all of it on the one page. Hopefully others will post what they have. Will be interesting to see what, if any differences.

 

[Grumpy8811]

From what I am understanding from all I’ve read and researched, the failure is caused by the high amp draw of the heater through the under-designed nut and stud. A sticking relay can compound this. How many relay “fixes” have been done? Bottom line, very bad design and even worse placement in the intake stream. I will not take that chance as that would be the only lottery I would “win”.

you know what is funny is for all the fear mongering, for the most part really haven't seen a helluva lot of engine damage pictures from that bolt falling out..
oh there is all sorts of internet claimology, but very little in the way of destruction.

 

[Turbo Terry]

Depends on your risk and tolerance level. Like the stock market. But disconnecting it solves the problem and the light on the dash does not bother me plus I can reconnect it when and if really need it. No harm no foul

 

[petersonj]

This is what is in the wiring manual for my 2014

Thank you for posting that information. It is exactly what I wanted to see. I am interested to see if there is a way to wire an independent momentary switch to activate the grid heaters manually. That part will be easy - the hard part will be to figure a way to fool the PCM into not turning on the MIL.

A long time friend of mine will be bringing a 2016 truck to me at the end of March. I want to see if it is possible to do this modification. Also, I will be installing the BD grid heater kit at his request.

I have had the remote grid heater switch in my truck since it was new - a very simple mod for my era of truck. I just get two codes, but no MIL.

- John

 

[AH64ID]

Depends on your risk and tolerance level. Like the stock market. But disconnecting it solves the problem and the light on the dash does not bother me plus I can reconnect it when and if really need it. No harm no foul

Other than you now have no indication if there is any other issue that would trip a CEL.

The truck records how long you’ve driven with a CEL illuminated, so if you’re under warranty you could run into issues with a constantly illuminated CEL.

 

[Turbo Terry]

Good to know thanks

 

[Topzide]

@petersonj, I think the only way to do that, Would be with a heavy contact relay that would direct the "heater" lead to a load equal to the "heater" with switch in the on position. Then with the switch in the off position, "heater" would operate like normal.

I like the LED mod that tells you when the heater has power being applied to the circuit. This way you would know if it's stuck in the on position. I may add this, even with the BD kit installed. Would like to see how often it cycles on and off. Anyway, I can sleep better knowing I have a better setup!

Having it got south and trash the engine, wouldn't be good for the truck or my health, with the DW!

 

[Grumpy8811]

@petersonj, I think the only way to do that, Would be with a heavy contact relay that would direct the "heater" lead to a load equal to the "heater" with switch in the on position. Then with the switch in the off position, "heater" would operate like normal.

I like the LED mod that tells you when the heater has power being applied to the circuit. This way you would know if it's stuck in the on position. I may add this, even with the BD kit installed. Would like to see how often it cycles on and off. Anyway, I can sleep better knowing I have a better setup!

Having it got south and trash the engine, wouldn't be good for the truck or my health, with the DW!

if that grid heater stays ON, you will see it in your dash voltmeter, assuming you pay any attention to that sort of thing.

 

[AH64ID]

if that grid heater stays ON, you will see it in your dash voltmeter, assuming you pay any attention to that sort of thing.

It depends on the alternator configuration. It was very obvious with my 136A alternator on my '05, pretty obvious with a single 220A alternator on my '18, but generally undiscernible with dual 220A alternators on my '22.

 

[petersonj]

I like the LED mod that tells you when the heater has power being applied to the circuit.

I like that idea, as well, so I will be doing it.

I am thinking about just disconnecting the heavy wire on the grid heater side of the OEM relay and leave everything else connected. Then I will add a relay to operate the grid heater from a different power source. A momentary switch will be added to the circuit to control the coil on the added relay. If this is successful without triggering the MIL, then I will just monitor the system over time to see if any issues arise. If it is not successful, then I will investigate further.

- John