Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) help needed: Leaking high pressure fuel lines

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) fuel box confusion ?

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) F.A.S.S setup

Status
Not open for further replies.
Had my vp44 replaced under warranty at the dealer.



Now I have fuel leaks around the high pressure fuel lines where they screw into the head. I really don't want to take my truck back to the dealer if this is something I can fix.



I checked the service manual and it says the "torque is extremely critical" and that if these lines are over torqued, damage to the injectors and steel connector can occur.



Well, I tried tightening the fuel lines and I couldn't get them to turn.



Any help? Do you think the dealer damaged something?

Should I try "really" cranking on them?



Can the ferrules on the ends of the hp fuel lines be replaced?



Anyone else have problems getting with leaks in this area?
 
Last edited:
Personally I would bring it right back to them with out touching it don't give them any reason to say you stripped it out by over tightening them and force you to pay for the repair.
 
I really don't want them working on it. I would have to do without my truck for a day or more, and it will probably still leak.



Anyone have any hints on how to stop the leaks?



I guess, as a last resort, I could replace the lines and the steel connectors, but that may get expensive.



One good thing, if I go through the trouble of replacing the connectors, I'll probably end up with some DDII's to make me feel better.
 
As stated above, I would take it back to the dealer and have them replace the lines, and or connector tubes. Sounds like someone really cranked them down too tight. The service manual for my 2001 says 28 ft. -lbs. That ain't very much. :eek: I think that over-tightening can damage the ends of the lines and cause them to leak.



I know it is a real pain to have to take it to the dealer, but if you don't, you may be out of pocket for new parts yourself.
 
When I put in my DD2's I had to take the injector lines off and the little injector tubes out. I proceeded VERY carefully. Torque a little, check the seating to the injector, torque a little, check ... ... .



It is a metal to metal fit. The manual stresses exact torque. IF THEY cranked down on them then THEY screwed it up.



I would take it back to them and this time when THEY do it I would ask the tech what the torque is BEFORE he cranks down on them again just to see if he knows. My guess he did it by "feel", which will not cut it.



The problem is they do not allow enough "standard time" for the tech to take his time and get it right carefully.



Bob Weis
 
I guess I can give them one more try.



rweis, I think I will take your advice and ask them what the torque is. This may alert them to how important it is to torque them down properly.



Thanks.



Mad Bomber, I am in Gettysburg, PA. (updated my profile)
 
when i did my injectors i had help from a cummins tech and the torque is very inportant, i developed a leak 2 days later on #2 ended up being the male connector from the line to the injector take it back to the dealer you paid for it make them fix it
 
First of all MAKE THEM fix it. Then insist they do a 5 mile test drive before they return it, using as much HP as they can and recheck it.



If all else fails and you get it back anyway, try torquing each injector line 4 or 5 times, by loosening and tightening, this will help the seal swedge into the connector tube.



As an after thought, if the rubber o/r's are faulty on the connectors, you can torque all day long and they won't seal, but this is usaully only an issue if they removed the connector tubes, which they should not have.



A Johnson
 
Use a torque wrench...

Guys:



I agree about having the dealer correct the problem, however, if you want to do it right use a torque wrench w/ a 19mm crow's foot wrench. You have to do # 6 manually, but have never had a problem with it. You will get a feel for the amount of effort doing 1 - 5. I've done about 12 injector changeouts with out any problems.



Good luck,



Wiredawg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top