Help wanted for 24v Swap in Indiana

[Brayden]

Well here comes the good stuff. Got the doghouse off the truck today. All the electrical is unhooked, computer etc. . The motor will come out tomorrow.



Should have some pics of the cummins sitting in the engine bay tomorrow. Just for mock up/measurement purposes.



It's gonna be close. . I'm going to end up moving the radiator/intercooler/condenser module forward about 4". This won't be much of a problem, since the core support is going to be built from scratch.

 

[Brayden]

Mo Pics

 

[Brayden]

Mo Pics

 

[Brayden]

Here's some good stuff. 4. 3 is out. . Cummins FITS



http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289397759



I'll post the pics too...



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[Brayden]

Mo Pics



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[Brayden]

Mo Pics



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[David_VT]

Very interesting project. Maybe there is hope for cramming a cummins in my 55 power wagon after all... .

 

[Snow man]

Nice pics,keep then coming! Good thing you've got a strong front end in that truck,the Cummins looks like it just fits.

 

[EricBu12]

One thing on that 24 valve, do this so you don't dump oil out the front of the engine.



Either do the service TSB so the oil vent is on the tappet cover like the old 12 valves were or do the fix I did and make a vent on the valve cover in the thread below



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73627

 

[truckstom]

an "extended hood" S-10... ... . cool... .

 

[Brayden]

I actually don't think I'm gonna have to mess with the hood. I had a lot of room between the radiator and the grille, so it may work.



I've got some updated pics that should be on here tonight.

 

[Brayden]

Here's some updated pictures. I've been working on transmission, t-case stuff recently and haven't been able to do much with the motor.



These pics show the stock crossmembers that I removed and how much space I'm gaining in the rear for the fuel cell. There will be 2-3 tubular crossmembers in the rear framerails to increase torsional rigidity. The 70 gallon aluminum fuel cell will "saddle" over these crossmembers. I calculated it out to hold around 70 gallons if it's 4" thick the width of the framerails, length of the bed less about 12" at the rear, and then drops down to a 15" deep sump in the back the width of the bed. .



I'm also going to mount my batteries in the rear, outside the framerails tucked up under the body panels.



This should put about 600-650 more lbs over the rear, which will help balance out the massive 950 lb motor in the front.







On another note, does anybody have a used 12v timing cover and pump drive gear? I'd rather not buy them new.





EDIT: Those pictures measuring my frame height are to compare with my height when finished. . I set it up on the lift before I started and determined that I wanted 30" of clearance at the framerail. So I'll be 6" higher than I am now. I'll gain 2. 5" of lift from the switch from 35" tires to 40" tires.



Overall I'll be 13" taller than a stock S10 ZR2. 16" taller than a standard S10 4x4. I'm also running full width axles though, which measure 69. 5" in front and 67" in back. Compared to the stock ZR2 track width of 63. 5. Which is wider than a regular S10 by 3".





Thanks, enjoy the pics.







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[ToolManTimTaylor]

Oh Mah Gawd I am giddy! SWEET! I didn' read as I am "Only goin down for a drink of water" but what are you doing for suspension to hold up the 1175LB beast?

 

[Brayden]

I'm using 1980-1996 Ford F250 4" lift springs (Diesel engine). They should work nice and they're the right length and width that I need.



I need to get the mod's to change the name of this thread. It's kind of misleading now.



Here are some more pictures...



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[TxDieselKid]

Originally posted by Brayden

I need to get the mod's to change the name of this thread. It's kind of misleading now.

Naw, we all know what it is!

 

[Brayden]

Here are some more pictures of the custom diff cover my buddy and I made. I'm the one with the safety glasses ON. We look like we work in a coal mine. . All part of the fun



This is a 14 bolt chevy rear diff. It's a little stronger than a Dana 70. I shaved 2" out of the bottom, the added a . 500" plate on the bottom. In stock form the casting lip catches on everything off-road. The diff cover is made from 3/16th's plate. . It's very strong.





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[Brayden]

I've still got to heat/bend the front of the . 500" plate down to meet the profile of the casting. I'll then add a piece of . 250" plate on the pinion support that will weld to the bottom cover. . It will utilize 3 3/8th's bolts on the pinion support. It should make the diff fairly bombproof. I gained 1. 5" of ground clearance and didn't lose much of the housing's strength.



Stay tuned I'm working on the motor tonight. . Should be some good stuff coming up, I've almost ran out of little stuff to do

 

[TBrennan]

Isn't that tinker toy frame going to twist into a pretzel from the torque?

 

[Brayden]

Just cause it's an S10 doesn't mean it's a tinker toy. The frame is roughly 2x6 box all the way back. I'm cutting the unboxed portion of the back off and installing 2x6 3/16th's box tubing instead of boxing the rest of it. I've got roughly 5 crossmembers sketched out in my drawings. 2 3/8th's tubing . 250 wall.



So essentially it will be as strong/stronger than a 1 ton frame. Go swap you truck up in a ditch and tell me how strong a 1 ton frame is. . the bed is gonna twist out about 2" and the doors will barely shut. Up until the last couple years the OEM's haven't addressed torsional rigiditiy like it should be.



I've got a buddy with a 7. 0L chevrolet LS6 V8 in his S10 ZR2. It makes 510 RWHP not on the bottle. His frame hasn't wadded up yet, and his is stock.

 

[Brayden]

Here are some finished pics of the rear diff, and a couple of it slung under the truck.



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