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Help wanted for 24v Swap in Indiana

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1st gen t-case

transmission mount hieght for the 47?

The ATS valve body doesn't count as an internal mod since it is crap :)



I guess I should extrapolate.



While interning at Allison we ordered one of thier "performance valve bodies" just to check out what their performance modifications were. They filled a convertor drainback passage with JB Weld/Devcon. This is not the way to increase lockup pressure. The A trim solenoid was broken off when we recieved it.



My opinions are based on that experience alone. . Mind you this was 2 years ago and their products may be better now. .



I also saw a few of their trucks at the extravaganza, and I was not impressed with the performance.
 
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I think you'll find that a higher stall convertor will be unwanted. With the torque that these engines make down low and the lower redline (than a gasser) you want to keep the stall speed low. Most guys are trying to get tighter convertors than stock rather than the other way around. I don't know anyone that's wanted a stall speed higher than stock.
 
Since I'm gonna have 4:1 t-case gears, 4. 10 gears in the diffs, a 3. 10 first gear, and 2:1 torque converter multiplication, I don't want a really low stall. I wouldn't be able to hold it back while in double low. . Even with the 4 piston brakes all the way around :)



I need a little "slop" in the convertor so that I can let it idle in double low, and still be able to stop it. .
 
Brayden,



I would recommend that you give that some more thought... . seriously. That engine for all intent and purpose, is done at 2-2200 rpm... . if the converter stall is above that figure, you'll never utilize the torque in the engine... . regardless of any torque multipliers built into the converter or geartrain... .



... on the other hand if you're worried about breaking things, by all means make the converter render the engine useless.



I've had a lot of experience with torque converters, not building them, but utilizing them in a race car... I seem to go through about 3-4 thousand a year in torque converters trying this, trying that... granted, yours is a diesel yes... . but the principles are the same.



The down side to the tight converter is turbo lag, but the benefits outweigh that in my opinion.



Just my . 02

Chris
 
We aren't talking "high stall" like 2500rpms in a race car though. .



The stall on the gas convertor in the big block is probably around 1400 rpms. This is fine I think. I'm going to try this setup, if it doesn't work the way I feel it should, then I'm going to go with either the triplelock or suncoast converter. I'm sure they're a very low stall convertor.



People have problems with 4. 3L V6's overcoming the brakes @ idle while in double low. Imagine what 400lb/ft @ idle is going to be like. .



That's why I wanted a little slop. . this is the convertor that I have and I'm gonna try it. . I'll upgrade later if it doesn't work.



Thanks for your input though.



PS. We're gonna set my pump up for 4000 rpm's. So I don't forsee any rpm problems.
 
Hey I have been reading this topic withgreat interest as I am doing something similar. I have a 86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer getting a 01 Cummins 5. 9. I too would like to use an Allison 1000. What changes a required to make one work? You mentioned bellhousing, output shaft ect. I have a 99 aod tcase will it bolt up? And what is required to make the allison read from the tps on the ram can I just splice into it? I know I'm asking alot of questions but I need to figure out what I'm doing trannywise soon so I can get to purchasing parts. Thanks.
 
Brayden if you can get away from your truck this Sunday I will buy your breakfast. Some of us local guys are meeting in Cicero this Sun the 21st. I will make you the guest of honor if you bring pictures. Check out the Events area on the TDR for the Great Lakes for more details. Kirk
 
As far as the Allison goes, yes I can make it work with the ISB. No, the AOD t-case will not work without an adapter. The only T-case that will work w/o any mods is the NP241 or NP242. I'm gonna make an adapter for my 205 to work.



You'll need an SAE #3 flywheel housing for your cummins, $654. 00 new from cummins(wholesale). You'll also need roughly 1350. 00 in parts from allison. This doesn't include the cost of the transmission.





Kaptn, I wish I could make it up there for your breakfast. Thanks for the invitation. I'm going to be at the four wheel jamboree all weekend, and sunday morning I've got a reunion to go to. I'll have a party when I get the truck finished.



Oo.
 
Here are some new pictures. I turned some pieces in the lathe for my rear shackle hangers. I already had the poly bushing kit laying around.



Worked out great. . They look :cool: IMO, should work just as well.









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Just to update you all, I've been doing a lot of fab work, not to mention a 180 degree turn in my career path.



Anybody want to hire a decent fabricator/machinist/computer geek ?



Wow 7000 views... Makes me feel all warm & fuzzy inside :)



Stay tuned
 
Originally posted by Brayden

Just to update you all, I've been doing a lot of fab work, not to mention a 180 degree turn in my career path.



Anybody want to hire a decent fabricator/machinist/computer geek ?



Wow 7000 views... Makes me feel all warm & fuzzy inside :)



Stay tuned



Damn, I'm afraid I'm about to do the same 180, job wise!

Timing really sucks. Well, not really that bad. But, I still don't have my new shop built. Other wise I'd be coming up there to get you.

Plans are to put in a 60 by 80 shop behind the country house.

If I can get my house in town sold, then I'd be set.



I expect the announcement sometime in the next two weeks.



Funny thing is with my MOS I can just about write my own ticket if I wanted to stay and freelance in my current profession. But after 30 years! It sure would be nice to change professions.



CJ
 
Got my 913 pump today. Got a great deal on it. Should have it installed on the motor here in a few days. . The project is going to slow down a little bit since I'm now going to be working full time.





I know that this winter the thing will smoke. . Maybe sooner. I'm going to four link the front/rear suspensions while I'm at it now. No reason to use leafs, since I won't be able to plant any power with them. Gonna try to pull it maybe :)



I think I'm gonna go a little wilder on my HP estimate too ;). This stuff is addictive.
 
Ok. . an update for Y'all. I'm working full/over time now and don't have much time for the truck, yet the money will definately help it come together. . As I mentioned, I've got my pump and I should have that on the motor soon, maybe this weekend. I've decided to four link the truck instead of running leaf springs, so that's gonna add a little time to the project, but it will be much much better. Stay tuned. .



Thanks,



Brayden
 
four link

What are you going to use for springs (coilovers?) in your link setup. Why not just 3 link the back to simplify things.

Oh and I completly agree with you on the torque conv. issue. 200 to 1 and 400 ft lbs could push a train. Good Luck
 
I'm gonna run a triangulated four link front and rear. . Maybe a dual triangulated setup on the rear. Possibly one set of converging links up front (lowers).



Not sure if I'm gonna run coilovers or bags yet. . I want to make airbags work. . I've done all the research, and I've got a design sketched out for a cool forced articulation air manifold :), i. e. right front bag ports to the left rear when in "off-road" mode. . Otherwise they'll each be closed off from each other to prevent body roll. .
 
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Max articulation..... How much can you acheive with the short amount of frame to deal with? I AM WAAAAY INTRIGUED! That sounds like one of the ost sic setups other than a purpose built crawler!
 
Not sure of the answer you're looking for tim, but I'll take a stab at it. The airbags I've sourced (firestone) are the rolling bellows type used in semi's and tri-axle trucks. The one's I'd like to use are smaller in diameter. They do though, have 11" of travel, and an installed height of 13" or so, if I recall. If I mount the bag directly on the axle, then I would have 11" of travel on each side. So I could achieve 22" of max articulation. . ie. Right at full bump, left at full droop --> 11+11=22 :) But if I move them forward a bit onto the control arm, then I can gain travel, yet lose some weight carrying ability. Then you have to worry about the added stress on the lower link, etc. I planned on using 1. 250" 4340 solid bar for the lower links, and then have them heat treated. That setup would be stout enough to mount the bags on the back 1/3 of the links. Which would give me 33% more travel --> 11 * . 33 =3. 63 which added to the bags travel --> 11+3. 63 = 14. 63" which is about perfect. Note that the bag's load capacity is cut by 1/3 or . 33 so the 3500 lb bags are now only good for 2345 each, which is 9380 total capacity with all four, which is plenty for my estimated 6000 lb vehicle weight. . which leaves me 3380 lbs for payload. . But I'll never squeeze 1. 5 tons into an S10 :)



Sorry to bore y'all with the calcs, just thought I'd lay it all out, and there is some decent tech info buried in there :)
 
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From experience I would use 1. 25 heims (aura) on one end of the links and rubber mount the other end (just like what you made for the shackle hangers ie. leaf spring bushings and tubing). If you use metal to metal on both ends you get a harsh jar with the bumps of road driving. I like your courage using bags, I have never had much luck setting them up but not saying it cant be done. I would also not use a 3 link front, bump steer is going to be a big problem. Spending th extra time and using utilizing a trac-bar is well worth it in the front, it will make for a better road mannered vechicle. My 2 pesos (the old kind)
 
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