Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) high rpm safety

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 4x4 not engaging

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front brake calipers

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What areas besides the valve springs should I address when I get a 5k gsk? I think I remember awhile back reading about clipping/removing water pump blades, or a bracket that held a freeze plug in on the back of the engine. Its a daily driver and I tow sometimes-read as I try to accelerate faster than everybody else with or without the trailer.



Jordan
 
I would stick with a 4k gsk. The 5k will make your truck idle at 2000rpm when you put it in and most people have to grind down the idle stop bolt so they can get the truck to idle normally. 5k rpm is faster than I would want to spin my engine. The faster it spins the shorter its life will be.
 
I'm not intending to hit 5k frequently, just for the occasional truck pull and dyno run. The trucks that run the higher rpms sound sweet on the pull videos. The guy I talked with at dynomite diesel said that if I loved the 4k kit in my old truck then I would love the 5k kit. I think he mentioned that the idle speed fluctuated between 1000-1500 rpms-like one time it might idle at 1200, then 1400 the next, then maybe 1000.



With altering the idle stop like you described, would that require tapping the throttle to start the truck?



Jordan
 
Even with my 4k I have to apply slight throttle pressure for the truck to start immediately. Otherwise it will crank for about 3 seconds and then start with no throttle pressure. I think the 5k requires titanium keepers and retainers.
 
MAleksandrowicz said:
Even with my 4k I have to apply slight throttle pressure for the truck to start immediately. Otherwise it will crank for about 3 seconds and then start with no throttle pressure. I think the 5k requires titanium keepers and retainers.



A click on the Gov springs will cure that starting thing... FYI!



Jim
 
why in the world would you want a 5000rpm kit on a daily driver anything over 3500 i think is a little over board
 
only reason to turn that kind of RPM is sled pulling (wheel speed) and even then there are plenty of guys pulling pretty good at 4k or less... unless you've got a HIGHLY modded head and a big cam, you're probably not doing much beyond making noise and heat at those rpm levels.



BUT, if you're gonna do it, go w/ better retainers and locks, my buddy's were almost pulled all the way through on his truck when he broke down the head durring a head gasket R&R. I asked "what kind of RPM will that thing turn?" he said "I don't know, whatever 'straight down' is on the needle" :-laf
 
Jim Fulmer said:
A click on the Gov springs will cure that starting thing... FYI!



Jim



If I back it up a click, I lose about 150-200rpm on the top. I have tried mutiple settings and this is the one that performs best. Having to touch the pedal when starting doesn't bother me but I'm sure it would bother some people.
 
I'm not intending to hit 5k frequently, just for the occasional truck pull and dyno run.



One thing is for sure you will never need 5k on any dyno as the 12v motors fall off tremendously from about 3500 out,no matter if they are heavily fueled or not. Bigger cams help the problem some,but,do not change where they begin their free fall a whole lot. Now for pulling,I would say any way you can increase your rpm for wheel speed thats a different game,however,if you haven't got the valvetrain to use the rpm all your doing is spending money on areas you do not need. Remember also that some of the DHRA lower classes will have you rpm limited this year and the 5k kit may not help you at all in their world or any of the sanctioning bodies using their rules... ... Andy
 
Good to know about the rpm limits in certain pulling classes. What if anything should I modify to occasionally use all the rpms of a 4k kit? I do see that 3000+ a little is usually plenty of rpms driving and playing around town. My 95 had a blowby problem that I assumed was high rpm blowby. Compression was good. I have been considering adding a second breather to help the engine to vent easier and try to save the gaskets. Am I on the right track or am I just making something out of nothing cause of the experiences with my old truck?



Jordan
 
I put valve cover breathers on three valve covers... seemed like cheap insurance. I DO NOT want to blow a tappet cover, which is about the least you'll do w/ too much crankcase pressure
 
Forrest Nearing said:
I put valve cover breathers on three valve covers... seemed like cheap insurance. I DO NOT want to blow a tappet cover, which is about the least you'll do w/ too much crankcase pressure





Been there, done that,Dont want to to it again. :-laf Esp. because just to replace that cover the injection pump has to come off.



So here is what i did

<a href="http://imageshack.us">#ad
</a>



I put this in the oil fill also for now,but what i am looking for is a OEM breather from a 24 valve.

<a href="http://imageshack.us">#ad
</a>







Michael
 
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The one thing i overlooked is i should have put some kind of filter in the 3 breathers or some kind of baffle so the oil does not go through the lines and all over the underneath of the truck.



And yes people said i was paronoid also :-laf





Michael
 
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