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hoist/dump bed

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Down hill with auto & no E brake

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Anyone out there install their own dump bed? I'm in the process of putting in a hoist and have discovered that the fuel tank forces the hoist to be about 4 inches higher. I don't like it. I measured some installed flatbed with a hoist and they all are up there. Too high in my opinion. Has anyone replaced their fuel tank with one that goes where the spare is? I've seen these offered from transfer flow as an aux. but a $1000 price tag too. If someone made a tank to go back there that would utilize my existing pump and gauge I'd be set. Any Ideas??
 
Just curious as to what you will be hauling in the box. Have you thought out the stress points that will be added to the frame by the hoist. Also there will be added frame twisting. It might all sound neat to have a lift box but in reality is it safe over a period to time. You also didn't mention the size of truck you are using... If it were me I would think about it... . Just my 2 pennies
 
This is a topic of interest to me as well. I have an EBY flatbed. I found out that EBY will build their beds with either a real thin main set of rails or with a set about 4" thick if it was to be a dump bed. I have the thin rails ie; low profile. Apparently, the only way I could make mine a dump bed is to add another frame underneath it. That would entail a frame within a frame. One side bolting to the truck frame and one to the bed frame. That project is at a standstill at the moment.
 
You guys are thinking right so far on the 2 frames,my only question is why? I ask this because I used to have a Kaylan dump trailer (self contained ) and it was great! I would not want to trash my box and you know you will,there are some used ones out there and it will keep your ram looking good. just my o2 Kevin
 
I have been looking at some of these gooseneck dump trailers. Have you thought about using one of them instead? I was just about to post that when I saw yor thread.

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2001 ETH/DEE ST 4X4 SPACE SHUTTLE
 
Venco makes a kit for the Dodge Ram that will keep your fuel tank and spare tire in the stock location. Receiver hitch will need to be lowered and moved forward 1 inch, easy to do. The body lines will all remain the same and the bed will not sit higher like on some setups. I agree with the post about the stock bed taking a beating if loaded heavily. My stock bed started to spread a little. You could see a bigger space between the bed and the tailgate. Tailgate also started getting harder to close. After all, it is only made with thin sheetmetal and spot welded together. That is when I changed it to an aluminum flatbed. I often times carry 3-4000 lbs in the bed and use the dump an average of 4 times a week. Had it on (the flatbed) for 1 year this month, loaded more heavily, and no problems so far.

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1996 3500 Clubcab SLT, auto, 4. 10 limited-slip, TST #5, 370s, AFC spring kit, Psychotty, Dunrite converter, Trans-Go, DiPricol EGT, boost & trans temp. gauges, 9 ft. aluminum flatbed and tool boxes with Venco dump. Custom front bumper, Hadley air horn, PowerVision mirrors & 4" Stack Exhaust.

[This message has been edited by Koa Man (edited 03-12-2001). ]
 
I was talking to a guy at the landfill who had a GN dump,real sharp looking rig,he said he loved it though he had to be on level ground with a load that may not slide good while dumping,they can tip over easily. If I didn't have a dump truck that's the way I'd go.
 
There is always a compromise with just about any setup. I need about 20' of bed length for most of my trailer work. Bed height and side access are also important. Although there are dumps with removable sides out there, I don't think the dry weight and unwieldiness of an elevated 20' bed would work for me. My 25',14k beavertail gooseneck has not worked out like I had envisioned. One, as I said, 20' would be adequate for me. With the weight limitations, that extra 5' is usually not used and just makes it harder to get around with. Two, I keep it licensed at just 10k (there's that CDL thing again) so I need to be careful of that.
 
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