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How much squat before doing suspension mods?

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Hi - I have a new RAM 3500 dually and I loaded a Truck Camper (about 4000lbs with dry tanks). I measured the rear squat at 3.5" - 4.0" at the wheel wells. It still seems to drive OK although I do get flashed from oncoming cars once in a while. In addition to this I will be adding a Torklift Superhitch with 48" extension (around 200lbs) to tow my Jeep/trailer (800 lbs tongue weight) with a WD hitch. The Jeep towing would only be about 20% of the usage, it would be mostly driven with just the TC.

My question is, what would trigger me to install some suspension mods (Timbrens, air bags, etc.)? The weight is within the cargo capacity of the truck so I'm not concerned about exceeding capacity, just about handling. I don't want to go the mod route if not needed but at the same time I don't want some incident on the road to make me regret not adding something sooner. What amount of squat or other indication would cause you to do something to the suspension?

Thanks...
 
I have the same truck and a heavier camper and pull about the same trailer.
12033694_10206481795235157_2011603909_n.jpg


I put on Stable Loads, helped some but not enough.

I'm going to go with SuperSprings next....had them on my 2011 Truck, same camper and trailer and they were the best mod for load carrying in my opinion.
I also had airbags on my 2011 but it could only raise things by 1.5 inches or so. Airbags weren't enough so I added the SuperSprings.

For me my goal is if I am on level ground, the camper and the bed in the camper is as close to level as possible.

12033694_10206481795235157_2011603909_n.jpg
 
The pin weight of our 5th wheel (see signature) squatted our truck enough to get the headlight flashing from oncoming traffic when towing. I added Firestone RideRite air bags which I run at about 37.5 PSIG when towing to level out the truck. The air bags also stiffen the suspension under severe jounce conditions when towing. Here's a photo of the truck and 5th wheel leveled out with the air bags.

20141224_113030_resized.jpg


Rusty

20141224_113030_resized.jpg
 
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I have the same truck and a heavier camper and pull about the same trailer. View attachment 95306

I put on Stable Loads, helped some but not enough.

I'm going to go with SuperSprings next....had them on my 2011 Truck, same camper and trailer and they were the best mod for load carrying in my opinion.
I also had airbags on my 2011 but it could only raise things by 1.5 inches or so. Airbags weren't enough so I added the SuperSprings.

For me my goal is if I am on level ground, the camper and the bed in the camper is as close to level as possible.

Which Stable loads did you have, lowers?
 
I love the use of airbags, I've used Firestone and Ride-Rite. Either of them give you options to adjust air pressure to your load. I carry an old air pump from my old Jeeping days in my 5th Toyhauler. You can also mount a air pump on your truck and increase or decrease the air pressure from the cab of your truck.
 
I too suggest installing Torklift StableLoads first. Not only will they engage the truck's auxiliary spring pack sooner reducing rear suspension "squat", they will reduce sway caused by strong cross winds and passing 18-wheelers when hauling heavy high center of gravity loads such as a slide-in truck camper.

Bill
 
I'm going to go with SuperSprings next....had them on my 2011 Truck, same camper and trailer and they were the best mod for load carrying in my opinion.
I also had airbags on my 2011 but it could only raise things by 1.5 inches or so. Airbags weren't enough so I added the SuperSprings.

For me my goal is if I am on level ground, the camper and the bed in the camper is as close to level as possible.


Which brand airbags did you have? Seems like something was wrong to only get 1.5" out of a set, though not much can go wrong with them.


I am not a fan of super springs. I think they put added stress on the OEM leaves, and in the wrong places. I seen the long term effects of improper load placement on leaf springs and it's not pretty. I feel the same way about lower stable loads for the same reason.
 
Truck in pic has 9,580 sitting on the rear tires. It does have factory rear air ride. My point is if your truck sits like this with a load it's fine!!! If the rear sits lower I would highly recommend air bags with in cab controls. I had a great system on my 11 HO Dually it was a PacBrake setup. I ran 5psi solo and 30psi loaded, the truck sat great with 4,500# pin and rode GREAT!!! Second pic is the 11.
IMG_3566.jpg
IMG_1213.jpg


IMG_3566.jpg


IMG_1213.jpg
 
Thanks for the great replies and suggestions. It looks like I should do something and there are a few options to choose from. Being a fan of the K.I.S.S. way of doing things I've decided to install the HD Timbrens. If that doesn't do it I'll go to the lower Stable Loads and then if needed, air bags...
 
Thanks for the great replies and suggestions. It looks like I should do something and there are a few options to choose from. Being a fan of the K.I.S.S. way of doing things I've decided to install the HD Timbrens. If that doesn't do it I'll go to the lower Stable Loads and then if needed, air bags...

Good choices; however, I'd install upper Stableloads instead of lower. The upper StableLoads replace the OEM upper bump stop cushions and engage the overload springs sooner and will place less stress on the outer ends of the OEM lower spring pack. With the Timbrem and upper StableLoads combination, you will notice less lateral sway from cross winds and passing 18 wheelers.

Installation Tip: When installing the upper StableLoads, don't use the included locking nut. Instead use a regular nut and a second nut as a jam nut. It makes an easier and much quicker installation.

Bill
 
I agree with Bill., go with the uppers not the lowers. With the lowers you loose your progressive design of how the springs work. I also am not a fan of Timbrens for a top heavy load, they are too far inboard. Keep in mind, as you go inboard with axle support you actually take away axle capacity because you are moving inboard/away from the hub face. This may be a small amount but it is real.

Nick
 
I agree with Bill., go with the uppers not the lowers. With the lowers you loose your progressive design of how the springs work. I also am not a fan of Timbrens for a top heavy load, they are too far inboard. Keep in mind, as you go inboard with axle support you actually take away axle capacity because you are moving inboard/away from the hub face. This may be a small amount but it is real.

Nick

Agree.

If you don't want to start with airbags then start with upper stableloads and if that's not enough go with airbags.

Far more people are not satisfied with timbrens than any other suspension modification. That's based on my observations over the last 15 years.
 
I too suggest installing Torklift StableLoads first. Not only will they engage the truck's auxiliary spring pack sooner reducing rear suspension "squat", they will reduce sway caused by strong cross winds and passing 18-wheelers when hauling heavy high center of gravity loads such as a slide-in truck camper.

Bill
I have a 2002, 2500 with factory camper option which I believe has a stronger spring pack. When we hauled our Jayco 26ft trailer we had a bad stretch of hiway last year and I had the porpoising effect. Would the StableLoads help negate this situation?
Or is this more of loading problem such as too weight in front of trailer or bed of truck?
 
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I have a 2002, 2500 with factory camper option which I believe has a stronger spring pack. When we hauled our Jayco 26ft trailer we had a bad stretch of hiway last year and I had the porpoising effect. Would the StableLoads help negate this situation?
Or is this more of loading problem such as too weight in front of trailer or bed of truck?

Where do you have your Rancho 9000 shocks set? My previous 2002 3500 would porpoise severely over concrete pavement with expansion joints with the stock shocks when towing our 5th wheel, so I changed out to Rancho 5000s (9000s weren't available at the time). With settings of 4 front, 5 rear (5 settings available), the porpoising was snubbed down very well; settings of 3 front, 2 rear provided the best unloaded ride. Again, those settings apply to the Rancho 5000s - translate them to your 9000s as you will.

Rusty
 
Where do you have your Rancho 9000 shocks set? My previous 2002 3500 would porpoise severely over concrete pavement with expansion joints with the stock shocks when towing our 5th wheel, so I changed out to Rancho 5000s (9000s weren't available at the time). With settings of 4 front, 5 rear (5 settings available), the porpoising was snubbed down very well; settings of 3 front, 2 rear provided the best unloaded ride. Again, those settings apply to the Rancho 5000s - translate them to your 9000s as you will.

Rusty

5000's aren't adjustsable. The 9000's are the adjustable ones. At least that's how it was in the mid-late 90's thru 2005 when I quit using rancho. I bought, used, and installed multiple sets of each in that timeframe.
 
5000's aren't adjustsable. The 9000's are the adjustable ones. At least that's how it was in the mid-late 90's thru 2005 when I quit using rancho. I bought, used, and installed multiple sets of each in that timeframe.

Then I guess I had the 5-position adjustable 9000s. I bought them in 2001, so I've slept a few nights since then.

Rusty
 
Rancho is being BHeads. The do not list the 9000 XL for the rear of 2015 or 2016 trucks. When I talked to them and told them that the 2013 and 2014 3500 were the same frame etc, they said they would not warranty them if I installed them on my 2015.

Here is the number for the rear of a 2014 3500 4x4.

RS999269
Rancho RS9000XL Shock Absorber

Snoking
 
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