2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission HUB assembly removal

[wyatt1672]

01 RAM 2500 4x4



Front passenger side. I have removed the caliber and rotor. The axle nut is off and I have removed the 4 9/16 twelve point bolts. The hub is not popping off. I consulted the sevice manual. There is no other steps listed. The truck has 266k and has spent time in the north. I had to torch the axle nut to get it off. I tapped the hub with a small hammer and it did not move. What did I miss?

 

[Double A]

I don't think you missed anything. They can be near impossible to remove. It took a few hours to get mine off. Had to keep heating and hitting it.

 

[PRohr]

Loosen up all the bolts and then take a socket and extension and place it on the hub and the other end against the frame. Have a friend (One you trust) start up the truck and turn the wheel and use the power steering as a hydraulic press... . it will pop the hub assembly out of the knuckle. Make sure the bolts are loosened all the way up so the hub has some room to move... . I usually take out all but one of the bolts.

 

[fest3er]

See my post in another thread:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...t-hub-bearing-assembly-brand.html#post1971998

As PRohr said, use the truck's power steering to your advantage.

Also note that the axle nut is torqued to 175 lb-ft; a shop that used a 1" impact wrench will likely have a lot more on it. I left the tire on and on the ground and used a floor jack to very carefully and very slowly turn an 18" breaker bar to loosen (and tighten) the nut.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

Alot of pb blaster a couple days prior let is soak in and had to use big impact took about 2-3 hours of hitting the bolt heads. each hub will have its own story due to miles and weather climate.

 

[wyatt1672]

Thank you for the feedback. When I can find a second person to help then I will try the steering wheel method. Torching the axle nut was a last resort. I think it was the first time they were removed since I bought the vehicle new back in 2001. I do not think anything is wrong with the hub assembly but since being a new TDR member and having more time on my hands I have been tinkering more. This whole procedure began when I was having a heavy cavitation while breaking, kinda like I was pumping the breaks. I had the rotors turned and from the advice of a mechanic I purchased new calibers. The old ones were originals and had alot of rust on the pistons.

 

[rotohead]

I know it's hard to think about right now but when you are ready to put the hub back on, plan on coating the matting surfaces with lots of anti-sieze. The next time you need to remove the hubs you'll be thankful you did.