Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) I got my gauges! now for the hard part

[DDT]

I got gauges from Genos, EGT, boost & fuel pressure. I do have instruction for pyro & boost but I can't find any for the fuel pressure gauge (autometer). Can anyone point me in the right direction. I want to start this project at daybreak.

2000-3500, 5sp,EZ

DDT

 

[Whitmore]

Dont let it intemidate, not to bad at all.



Gauges in general you need a ground, I simply drill a hole and run a short wire to a screw, power is needed and once you get a power source in the area you can splice it to the 3 wires needed one for each gauge, lights you can do 2 ways, either run a wire over to your other hot for the gauge and have the lights on all the time or you can pull the bezelle on the dash and tap a wire there so it will dim just like the cluster. Now on the F/P gauge I assume you have a sender and a banjo bolt, if so just install the banjo bolt at the vp-44 connection and use a grease gun hose into that and the sender on the end, this will take the pulse or vibration out of the sender and increase the life of the sender, the 2 wires from the sende are to a ground and to the gauge.



Cheers, Kevin

 

[DDT]

Well I must be wound up. I did go look again, I have a westech fuel press gauge, and sending unit and a grease gun hose. There is instructions to hook the sender to the gauge (it helps if you noctic the paper in the boxes) But I can not find instuction where to hook up the hose or sender at?

 

[MrFixit]

Schraeder

Some get a modified Banjo bolt to replace the schraeder valve, hook the grease gun to that, then the sending unit at the other end of the hose. Mount the sender where ever you can. Others mount this banjo bolt on the bottom of the filter so the schraeder can stay in place. Genos sells this banjo.

 

[DDT]

Thanks for the help guys

I did get the boost & pyro working this morning. I pulled several 5 ton loads of dirt after dinner. I was able to get the boost up to 23lbs & pyro at 1200*. I will call genos monday to get the banjo bolt and hook it under the fuel filter, might be a good time to change it.

BTW: I happen to notic the bottom back bolt on the exhast manafold was still holding on by a thread or two. top one was loose the others were tight.

 

[Thomas]

TSB 09-002-01 addresses the exhaust bolt issue (thanks Dave Fritz).

 

[DDT]

Thanks for the link! So since I pull alot I should get the Exhaust Manifold Bolt Retention Straps, Were can I get those at?

Since my truck does have a stumble every so often, do you think I should replace the LP at the same time as I put the bango bolt in for the FP gauge? I know it don't run for 30 sec when the strarter is bumped. and I do suffer from low fuel mileage, so I'm told. 15mpg empty @ 70mph. I did clean the ATI sensor, no difference after that.

As a new member & new to CTD I have learned alot from experts at TDR. A BIG THANK YOU to every one for there help!

DDT

 

[MrFixit]

Boost #'s

Did you add the Boost elbow???? Others seem to get near 30 lbs. boost with the EZ and the Elbow. You might want to put the gauge in before you change the pump, so you know if there is a problem or not w/ the pump.

 

[DDT]

Yes I did add the boost elbow when I put the EZ on.

Well I called genos and I have the right stuff, the hose does attach to the schader at the injection pump. I bled the air out of the line, at least sure because there are no more bubbles just fuel seeping out. My gauge does not move. When the switch is turned on the gauges moves down a tick. Start the truck & at 70 mph, still on 0.

Do I have something wrong of what?

 

[MrFixit]

???

So you bled the line, you bumped the ignition and the pump ran for a certain amount of time??? Mine runs about 30 seconds and I get about a quart out while it runs. I bled mine 3 times before I hooked up the "isolator" in my case. Is your sending unit grounded?? Does it need to be grounded?? Does the gauge need to be grounded??? Can you check with Genos to see if you can momentarily ground the main wire to the gauge to see if the needle pegs??? This would let you know if the sending unit and gauge are working properly. I would ask genos first though. If the needle does not peg, then there are still electrical problems. You say the needle moves when you turn the key on. . then this is a good sign for the gauge anyway.

 

[Thomas]

Did you remove the Schrader valve core?

 

[Rockcrusher]

Originally posted by Thomas

Did you remove the Schrader valve core?

Is the schrader valve core same sise as a tire valve core? I need to take mine out, but not sure if tire tools will work.

 

[DDT]

I did not remove the Schrader valve core. The hose has a white gasket & pin in one end of it, take off plastic cap and screw on hose end.

Is the schrader valve core same size as a tire valve core?- It looks bigger to me.

I did what I was told, called genos. since I was betting my LP was bad. He told me to hook up a mechanical gauge to the hose to see if there was any pressure. bumped the starter and I had 9psi, so I did not see why I needed to start it. Since I had a hose long enough I bump it again and did a volume test, my quart can had enough fuel to just cover the bottom in 25 sec. So I think my LP is bad & there sending unit is bad too. Do you have to do any to get fleet prices at cummins dealers? Unless there is a cheaper place.

DDT

 

[MrFixit]

Little Confused

I was under the impression that you put the genos banjo bolt that replaces the valve on. I hooked up a mechanical gauge once and had zero PSI. Then I checked the valve and pressed in the schraeder valve with a small tool and it felt stuck. Then it moved more freely once I plunged it a few times. I screwed the hose back on and then read 17 psi by that gauge for the 30 second duration.



I pulled the schraeder out and put genos banjo in when I installed my gauge. I will soon move the banjo over to the bottom of the filter (2001) so I can put the scraeder back in for dealer purposes when needed.



It does sound like you pump might be bad if you are not getting out any fuel when bumping the starter. Does the pump sound funny when running. I guess I could get you a . Wav file of mine if interested when I get home.

 

[DDT]

I was confused too. I did not get any bango bolts, I thought I was going to get one but there 18" hose fits the port.



Wav file of mine if interested when I get home

Yes that would be a big help.

Acording to dave fritz site: LP # 05015723AA

and 4 fuel line bango sealing washer # 05016555AA

Is that all I will need?

Thanks DDT

 

[R-N-R]

I also used the Genos hose to the Schrader and registered 0 psi on a mechanical gauge. It turned out that when you torque the living crap out of the hose to the schrader, the white plastic stuff packs into the hose end effectively blocking off any flow. I wound up removing the plastic stuff and the pin, then removing the valve core (standard tire valve core size). The result was as good as turning a $18 schrader hose into a $5 greese gun hose but it did work. You might want to check that connection, I can't be the only one to do this... ... can I

:-laf

 

[DDT]

I would do the same thing, but Ben @ genos warned me about that. Just tight enough that it don't leak.

 

[MrFixit]

Banjo

DDT,

The adapter is just one. You only need one. You remove the schraeder valve (17 or 19 mm) and replace it with the moidified bajo bolt. It has an 1/8" NPT socket on it for the grease gun hose. On genos website:

BF-LT - Individual Tapped Banjo Bolt (tapped; requires 2 gaskets): $7. 00 each and $1 each for the gaskets.

http://216.167.41.9/CoastalData/showdetl.cfm?&DID=30&Product_ID=593&CATID=1



In the picture, it is the one on the right.



You might need a new hose, one with male threads at each end or some type of coupling on your hose. Be careful on the torque, don't recall now but you can find it on this forum. Talk to Andy at geno's. He helped me set mine up months back. Like I mentioned earlier, you might be able to mount the banjo bolt on the bottom of the fuel filter and leave your schraeder valve alone. I am going to move mine on the next filter change.



This might be steering you away from your original design. I don't have any experience w/ screwing the hose on the schraeder port. Seems like there are problems sometimes when going this route although it make an easier install.



I did not get a chance to record the sound of my pump last night. Maybe I will do it today for you.

 

[MrFixit]

Just re-read

I just went over your last post. I think the LP does need 4 washers.

 

[DDT]

I found a LP at a local cummins shop $148. 13 I know list $164. 59 This beats the dodge dealer.

The boys at genos told me the hose the attaches to schraeder valve is a good set up. Mine is not leaking and is getting fuel though it. Should I still consider bypassing the schraeder with a bango fitting. I would like to monitor the fuel press after the filter.