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I may have to get a 68RFE in my new truck.

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This morning at a dealership in Utah they had some Anderson products and we started talking about them. The salesman said they never were overly fond of them, but it the only option for some short bed rigs. Since then they have starting selling more pullrite's, which also appear to use a ball???

Dunno... 310 mile tow home and I am VERY happy with the RVK3600 and auto-level... only a 31' trailer and ~`1500-1700 on the pin thou. GCW was just under 18K.
 
The companion uses the same attachment method as the Anderson but use the truck bed and the turnoverball different in some ways but both use 60 ft lbs on the gooseneck hitch in my case BW1320 Turnoverball.
 
The companion uses the same attachment method as the Anderson but use the truck bed and the turnoverball different in some ways but both use 60 ft lbs on the gooseneck hitch in my case BW1320 Turnoverball.

They are simlar, but not the same.

The RVK3500 has a bolted in shaft that drops into the GN hole, vs using the GN ball.

The RVK3500 also sits on the bed differently.

Both of those might seem like minor things, but they help absorb the fore/aft forces of the trailer differently, and better IMO.

The RVK3500 also has rubber bushings where the head attaches and that will absorb vibrations/movement too.
 
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The companion uses the same attachment method as the Anderson but use the truck bed and the turnoverball different in some ways but both use 60 ft lbs on the gooseneck hitch in my case BW1320 Turnoverball.

As John already said, the B&W doesn't use the ball, it has the post on the bottom of the hitch that drops down into the receiver. Once in place the draw down bolt gets torqued to 80 ft lbs.
Also there is quite a difference in the two bases, my RVK3405 base measures 35" x 45", the base itself weighs 215 lb. The head alone weighs 75lbs which I believe is close to double the weight of the entire Anderson set up. I realize the Anderson is aluminum so there is that, but there just isn't much there when looking at the over all foot print and supports. They certainly took a very different approach in the design of the Anderson compared to the B&W.

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Ok, I see it now, the Anderson attaches to the B&W ball. Thats just another potential pivot point that can move. Stuart, get the Companion, you'll have alot less back and forth movement that the Anderson has due to all the different potential pivot points. When you have that much weight through the several points of pivot, it will magnify that movement.

AH64ID, knowing how technical you can be in correcting me, I have to point out that its not rubber that the Companion pivots on, its urethane. :p
The RVK3500 also has rubber bushings where the head attaches and that will absorb vibrations/movement too.
 
I got it guys I got it it's all great doing great I reverse the Anderson I also reverse the coupler and I put it on the front of the kingpin and the difference is dramatic I'm also using trailer alternative trailer height which is lower and it's riding great the chucking is reduced I would say by 70% I'm happy with the combination at this point it's really really really functioning well yep it really is functioning well so I am a I am in not getting rid of the the Anderson yet because it's working well now so the difference I made by turning around the base by also turning around the coupler on the kingpin now I'm getting at least two and a half inch of up-and-down suspension for the for the pin box and for the trailer air and its outstanding I can't say anything more I'm happy as a clam in the sea.
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I am happy to see you did what I mentioned , you did as we talked about ,you got the weight more forward of the axle, plus you gave that trailair a better chance to work. Lots of advice here ,but you did what IMO would help.

Again IMO there was never going to be a fixed hitch, that was going to help your problem , a fixed hitch is a fixed hitch, there are some slight differences, but A B&W will not perform miracles. They are a great hitch ,but they do the same as any other hitch, they attach a fifth wheel .

I still think that MorRyde pin box would smooth it up , I don't know where pin weight is going to come into play on a Trailair pin box , I'm sure the heavy heavy pin weights there is benefit, but I do know that a MorRyde pin box in the 3200 lb. range connected to a shortbed Ram 3500 is as smooth as you can get, the ride up, and down ,plus fore, and aft . I cannot see where I would benefit with Trailair.
 
Now put some solid rubber blocks under the 4 corners of the base to stop the fore and aft bed deflection.

No doubt , that will help, but there was never going to be any magic changing hitches. Without looking at both B&W, and the Andersen to compare , that Andersen has a pretty big footprint sitting on the bed ,naturally the more the better.

On edit, as you know there are many that have NO ISSUES with the Andersen.
 
Again IMO there was never going to be a fixed hitch, that was going to help your problem , a fixed hitch is a fixed hitch, there are some slight differences, but A B&W will not perform miracles. They are a great hitch ,but they do the same as any other hitch, they attach a fifth wheel .
I'll have to disagree with this statement, If you are starting from scratch, then the B&W hands down would be the better choice. Because Stuart already has the Anderson hitch and the Air Ride, then yes your statement has some validity to it. But the B&W locking jaws that fit so well on the pin, and the urethane mounts it rests/pivots on, is as smooth a riding hitch with either the puck base or the standard below frame hitch. The different air suspension systems for the pin box are not needed with the B&W 5th wheel hitch. This is my opinion BTW, no scientific testing on my part, but pulling a heavy 5ver with the B&W system has been a pleasure to pull with and I would not go with another. I could have gotten my new truck with the factory hitch, but my B&W hitch has proven itself to me. There are more ways than one, and I respect that, but for the money, B&W bests the others.
 
The point was that by reversing the base it seems to have stopped some of the pogo effect and by reversing the Coupler that seems to have increased the suspension travel on the trailair, also as you guys know I was not a fan of the ALT ride height but since the Northpoint seemed be be a bit higher I said lets just give it a try.

Well it seems all the changes and now having the weight in front of the CA seemed to put all the pieces in a good chain so to speak and I must say I have not taken it off Alt Ride Height since yesterday and am now a fan of ARH so my search has ended lol one thing that does scare me is I think I have about 110 PSI in the airbag but its up to the line on the Trailair and it moves up and down smooth as butter I just hope I dont blow up the airbag lol that would be a real BLAST.

By the way does it look level in the photo from this morning I can lower it to the next hole on the aluminum ball.

#ad
 
I'll have to disagree with this statement, If you are starting from scratch, then the B&W hands down would be the better choice. Because Stuart already has the Anderson hitch and the Air Ride, then yes your statement has some validity to it. But the B&W locking jaws that fit so well on the pin, and the urethane mounts it rests/pivots on, is as smooth a riding hitch with either the puck base or the standard below frame hitch. The different air suspension systems for the pin box are not needed with the B&W 5th wheel hitch. This is my opinion BTW, no scientific testing on my part, but pulling a heavy 5ver with the B&W system has been a pleasure to pull with and I would not go with another. I could have gotten my new truck with the factory hitch, but my B&W hitch has proven itself to me. There are more ways than one, and I respect that, but for the money, B&W bests the others.

You can disagree all you want, I have towed a lot of miles with three different fifth wheel hitches ,two different trucks, and three different fifth wheels . I have towed more years then some ,less then others, but I have towed something or other for over 45 years . I know the process .

First fifth wheel 32', second 34', the third 38' , non of them terribly heavy for their length .All towed like a dream , first two with a 16K Reese manual slider, set up properly two inches forward of the rear axle center, same truck 1999 Ford Superduty 350. Both standard pin boxes . Same set up for the 38' fifth wheel ,but different hitch 18K Reese manual slider , same truck same setup 2" in front of axle center, but MorRyde pin box, towed like a dream. Still does behind the 2014 Ram 3500, same hitch 18K Reese attached to a Reese picture frame adapter attached to the OE fifth wheel prep , still two inches forward of the axle. Now I also tow with the Andersen rail mount hitch , it is 2" rear of center of axle. Both hitches ,same truck, same fifth wheel, you cannot tell the difference which hitch I am towing with . fifth wheel ,now is probably 13,200, at times possibly a bit heavier. It tows no different no matter how its loaded, water tank is in the rear ,full or empty ,no difference. Its an older Montana fifth wheel, and has always towed great, other then when the shear springs in the MorRyde suspension needed replacing, got a little bouncy, chucking nonexistent .


I am not sure what you mean by B&W does not require air ride pin boxes, but many sure has them . I keep hearing this jaw setup on the B&W, and I fully understand how it works. My 18K Reese slider ,has the same head as the Reese Elite, wrap around 1" thick jaw, don't know if its better or worse or whatever, buts it solid around the kingpin, and is that not what it is all about ?

If I was starting from scratch with my present fifth wheel ,and truck, I can't see where I would need anything else , other then what I have now. Would I have bought into this B&W fan club. maybe, but I sure wouldn't now.
 
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