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This morning at a dealership in Utah they had some Anderson products and we started talking about them. The salesman said they never were overly fond of them, but it the only option for some short bed rigs. Since then they have starting selling more pullrite's, which also appear to use a ball???

Dunno... 310 mile tow home and I am VERY happy with the RVK3600 and auto-level... only a 31' trailer and ~`1500-1700 on the pin thou. GCW was just under 18K.

The Pullrite is the same as the Andersen , just opposite on the attachment . The adapter on the Pullrite has the Ball on it, and the socket on the hitch. The Andersen has the socket on the adapter ,and the ball on the hitch, same setup, I couldn't tell you which one would be better. IMO they are equal, but I am sure someone has an opinion as to which is better :) I think Pullrite wanted to copy Andersen , made the difference in the attachment to make it a bit different, but still basically copying Andersen .
 
I am not sure what you mean by B&W does not require air ride pin boxes, but many sure has them . I keep hearing this jaw setup on the B&W, and I fully understand how it works. My 18K Reese slider ,has the same head as the Reese Elite, wrap around 1" thick jaw, don't know if its better or worse or whatever, buts it solid around the kingpin, and is that not what it is all about ?
The jaws lock so close on the pin, it has no play telescoped to the tow vehicle, and the urethane shoulders absorb more of the shock. The quality control is working for them, and it shows. I know because I toured their plant in 2007 when my B&W Elite flat bed was installed on my C&C. So lets see you find another hitch that will beat the B&W price and ride as nice. So you can buy a hitch cheaper than a B&W, but you'll spend just as much with the Air Rides and other contraptions with the same theory of operation to get the same feel as a standard B&W hitch. Hey, to each his own, but my money will be well spent on the B&W hitch. I can't wait to see how the puck system will tow, now that it will be even more stable distributing weight to the frame over a larger area. You can spend thousands of dollars trying to get the 5ver to feel like its one with the truck, good luck in spending that money.
 
The BW is a fixed hitch and as is the Andersen but I will say one thing the Trailair is not a fixed pinbox it does absorb lots of road abuse thats just physics Lippert told me as long as you use the TRAILAIR you can do whatever you want it helps that MUCH as far as abuse to the Lippert rv frame.

I have posted this video before just look at how the Trailair soaks up the bumps and now my Trailair is as active as the one in the video because of turning the coupling around to the more leverage area in front of the kingpin but I would bet anybody it is less shock to the frame from the way it absorbs the bumps.


 
We haven’t even touched on the fact that Liebert frames are one of the worst out there. I do wish you luck on it, but it’s a fact. I would take the advise from a used car salesman before I believe a liebert salesman. The salesman was correct that the liebert frame needs such a device.
 
The jaws lock so close on the pin, it has no play telescoped to the tow vehicle, and the urethane shoulders absorb more of the shock. The quality control is working for them, and it shows. I know because I toured their plant in 2007 when my B&W Elite flat bed was installed on my C&C. So lets see you find another hitch that will beat the B&W price and ride as nice. So you can buy a hitch cheaper than a B&W, but you'll spend just as much with the Air Rides and other contraptions with the same theory of operation to get the same feel as a standard B&W hitch. Hey, to each his own, but my money will be well spent on the B&W hitch. I can't wait to see how the puck system will tow, now that it will be even more stable distributing weight to the frame over a larger area. You can spend thousands of dollars trying to get the 5ver to feel like its one with the truck, good luck in spending that money.

I'm not sure who you are talking to ,the OP or me, but you are replying to me. . I have not spent thousands of dollars on anything for towing a fifth wheel. 16K Reese bought used , sold a couple years later for what I payed for it . 18K Reese bought new 12 years ago $400-500 can't remember, Reese adapter $300. Andersen rail mount hitch bought used $200. Lets call it 1K. So yes I have found three hitches that tow , and ride as good as B&W for 1K. So who are you to tell me that I don't have the same ride etc, you can't possibly know.


Lets take this debate a different path, you ever towed with say a plain old 18K Reese slider, or for that matter any other hitch besides a B&W. If so , what problems did you actually have that the B&W cured. Now you seem to be hung up on this telescoping thing :rolleyes: Lets just say ,I invite you to grab ahold of my 18K Reese slider, and see that ,yes there is some movement in the slider itself fore ,and aft. Where do you think that is going, its doing whatever you think that telescoping or whatever anyone else wants to call it. My point ,making a little too much out of a little play.
 
We haven’t even touched on the fact that Liebert frames are one of the worst out there. I do wish you luck on it, but it’s a fact. I would take the advise from a used car salesman before I believe a liebert salesman. The salesman was correct that the liebert frame needs such a device.

Well ,then he's covered with the Trailair, no worries .
 
14 you are just an argumentative individual. It gets old.

I have tried not to comment on your posts but everything I say you just can’t help yourself and quote me even when I am responding to someone else.
 
I've used two hitches with three different trucks, a 94 Ram 2500 gasser, 04.5 2500 CTD and an 07 CTD 3500 DRW, and soon to be my 4th truck, 3500 CTD HO SRW. The RBW hitch with the rail in the bed on the 94 and 04.5 towing a 27' and 34' 5ver. The 3500 DRW towing the 34' 5ver with the B&W hitch.
Fixed hitch is what to you, four point attachment , apparently thats what YOU consider a fixed hitch, for whatever thats worth .
Apparently your not aware of the B&W system the OP has vrs the new puck system. The B&W base has a post that fits into the turnover ball receptical and is torqued to specs locking it to the frame and the base acts as a stabilizer, (this is where it performs similar to the anderson) that the arms with the urethane pads are connected to. The new puck system is attached to the frame at 4 different points eliminating the need for the turnover ball receptical. This makes the puck system more rigid and will not allow movement of the base. The older design that is very capable and stable has two different bases, one for the flat bed and one for the regular pickup bed. The flat bed version is smaller in size because the flat bed is made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum. The regular bed base is larger, to help distribute to a larger area making it more stable than the flat bed version when attached to a regular bed. I don't have the time to post all the different air rides or other simular contraptions but they are not cheap. When I got the current 34' 5ver I thought about one of these devices because of the RBW hitch was a poor design. Then I bought the B&W flat bed with a companion hitch. No more huck and chuck and it felt very stable behind my C&C. So theres is my history and you can think what you want.
 
@Cummins2014 I think the biggest issue is that you’re comparing your Anderson rail mount to a Anderson gooseneck mount. The rail mount is a more solid/fixed hitch than the GN mount.

I'm willing to bet you would feel a difference between your rail mount Anderson and the OP’s Anderson.

The B&W GN mount hitch is also more solid than the Anderson, as it doesn’t use the GN ball.

There is also a reason the B&W puck hitch is rated for more weight than the GN Companion, and they both use the same head just different mounting.

This part from Anderson may help make it more fixed, but there is still going to be more room for movement as the shaft is not bolted to the frame like a B&W.

https://andersenhitches.com/Products/3219--andersen-bed-shaft.aspx
 
I did try to get a truck with the Puck System but it just did not work out so I had them install the BW1320 Turnoverball at Kernersville Dodge and supposed to be really strong.
I love the Bedshaft and why its supposed to make the Andersen stronger I have no CLUE.
 
I've used two hitches with three different trucks, a 94 Ram 2500 gasser, 04.5 2500 CTD and an 07 CTD 3500 DRW, and soon to be my 4th truck, 3500 CTD HO SRW. The RBW hitch with the rail in the bed on the 94 and 04.5 towing a 27' and 34' 5ver. The 3500 DRW towing the 34' 5ver with the B&W hitch.
Apparently your not aware of the B&W system the OP has vrs the new puck system. The B&W base has a post that fits into the turnover ball receptical and is torqued to specs locking it to the frame and the base acts as a stabilizer, (this is where it performs similar to the anderson) that the arms with the urethane pads are connected to. The new puck system is attached to the frame at 4 different points eliminating the need for the turnover ball receptical. This makes the puck system more rigid and will not allow movement of the base. The older design that is very capable and stable has two different bases, one for the flat bed and one for the regular pickup bed. The flat bed version is smaller in size because the flat bed is made of heavy gauge steel or aluminum. The regular bed base is larger, to help distribute to a larger area making it more stable than the flat bed version when attached to a regular bed. I don't have the time to post all the different air rides or other simular contraptions but they are not cheap. When I got the current 34' 5ver I thought about one of these devices because of the RBW hitch was a poor design. Then I bought the B&W flat bed with a companion hitch. No more huck and chuck and it felt very stable behind my C&C. So theres is my history and you can think what you want.


I don't discount your history at all, I have no doubt you know what you are talking about, but most of you guys keep insisting on this B&W, its a great hitch , no doubt. But its just not the end all to all towing issues. IMO you are not listening to anyone else, I am hearing no else knows what they are talking about . Too MANY factors involved to push the fact just on fore ,and aft movement. Thats seems to be the big push here.

I don't buy this movement thing as being the OP's biggest issue., just the fact that most sliders have a little movement, I don't know about B&W sliders ,but they just got some fore, and after movement . As I said mine sure does, and there is no difference in towing between a Reese slider, and a rail mount Andersen ,both four point attachments, plus the adapter on a four point attachment to the frame of the truck. To me that discounts fore, and aft movement as being the biggest culprit with the OP. I am no where near a fan of that aluminum Andersen, don't like the one point attachment what-so-ever, but many have great success with THAT hitch.

I responded on this thread suggesting to him to turn both around adapter ,and the hitch around. Two things ,he was too far behind the axle, and the adapter not allowing that trailair to work properly, he did that , it smoothed up. IMO if he would of left that MoRyde pin box on, hooked up to any decent hitch, doesn't HAVE to be a B&W , but if so great. We wouldn't be having this conversation.

I would like to see the OP take that Trailair off ,and give that MorRyde a shot, I think he would be surprised.
I have a question on these air ride pin boxes, I have never felt like I needed any cushion between the fifth wheel ,and the truck, I asked before, does it take a certain amount of pin weight for the NEED for an air ride pin box, in my thinking it does.

My present fifth wheel is an older Montana fifth wheel with the MoRyde LRE suspension, has a rubber spring between the axles. Was told by a couple sources that short of IS suspension , it was probably the best out there for a conventional leaf spring suspension, I more or less have to agree, my fifth wheel got a bit bouncy , I let those rubber shear springs go too long, they were shot, replaced them ,and it was night ,and day difference. It was gradual thing, but it got to the point where I started to realize I had a problem . I was lucky those shear springs did not come apart. My point here, these fifth wheels, axle placement, suspension etc all play into the OP's towing experience. It can't all fall back on just the fact of THAT HITCH.
 
14 you are just an argumentative individual. It gets old.

I have tried not to comment on your posts but everything I say you just can’t help yourself and quote me even when I am responding to someone else.

And I feel they same about you, so its push . Plus I was told a long time ago what I was ,and the worst part they said I don't care. So there you have it, I don't care. Grow some thicker skin ,you are too sensitive, have I not heard that comment from you .
 
@Cummins2014 I think the biggest issue is that you’re comparing your Anderson rail mount to a Anderson gooseneck mount. The rail mount is a more solid/fixed hitch than the GN mount.

I'm willing to bet you would feel a difference between your rail mount Anderson and the OP’s Anderson.

The B&W GN mount hitch is also more solid than the Anderson, as it doesn’t use the GN ball.

There is also a reason the B&W puck hitch is rated for more weight than the GN Companion, and they both use the same head just different mounting.

This part from Anderson may help make it more fixed, but there is still going to be more room for movement as the shaft is not bolted to the frame like a B&W.

https://andersenhitches.com/Products/3219--andersen-bed-shaft.aspx

No doubt, there is a difference, but some of you keep hanging your hat on just that one problem, fore, and aft movement in the hitch base. I disagree . Sure he can spend another grand ,and change hitches , and hope for better results, but at this point he has done some things ,and it seems that he has solved most of his issues.
 
My opinion is, B&W is the best hitch, for the money, the dollar value when it comes to stability. Are there better hitches? You bet there is, would I buy them? No, now that I have expererianced first hand what the B&W does for you. I'm only pushing the B&W hitch with the OP, because he already has the most important part., the underbed frameworks. You have accused me of pushing only one hitch, as if its the best of the best and ignore any other options. Thats so far from the truth, with all the others out there, it can't be so. Reese would have been my second option, if I hadn't bought a B&W bed (do not confuse that for the hitch). I believe Reese's quality is good and I actually purchased the Reese under bed brackets for the top rails on my 04.5. They are perfect for the no drill no weld hydroformed frame, and puts the pin perfectly in front of the rear axle that you can't get wrong. Stuarts B&W underbed frameworks puts him in perfect position to complete it with the Companion, IF he choses to do so. The Air-ride setup he has will complement the B&W companion. Why? because he already has it, why not use it.
 
My opinion is, B&W is the best hitch, for the money, the dollar value when it comes to stability. Are there better hitches? You bet there is, would I buy them? No, now that I have expererianced first hand what the B&W does for you. I'm only pushing the B&W hitch with the OP, because he already has the most important part., the underbed frameworks. You have accused me of pushing only one hitch, as if its the best of the best and ignore any other options. Thats so far from the truth, with all the others out there, it can't be so. Reese would have been my second option, if I hadn't bought a B&W bed (do not confuse that for the hitch). I believe Reese's quality is good and I actually purchased the Reese under bed brackets for the top rails on my 04.5. They are perfect for the no drill no weld hydroformed frame, and puts the pin perfectly in front of the rear axle that you can't get wrong. Stuarts B&W underbed frameworks puts him in perfect position to complete it with the Companion, IF he choses to do so. The Air-ride setup he has will complement the B&W companion. Why? because he already has it, why not use it.

I did the same with my 99 Superduty, Reese no drill with standard bedrails, with my 18K Reese slider, and still a great hitch to this day. Its was hard to beat those under bed brackets, and the standard bed rails when there was no OE puck systems . The puck system is now the best , it gives you a clean bed ,and no doubt the strongest connection. Big reason I went with the Reese adapter ,and stayed with the Reese hitch , no reason to change hitches. I only use the Andersen when I go to Montana for the summer, it was a hassle getting that Reese hitch out of my truck ,it was either get help ,or take it apart . I needed the clean bed to haul around my inflatable pontoon boat to fish the lakes. The Andersen solved that, the rest of the time I use the Reese. Electric hoist in my garage handles the Reese just fine .

Big reason I am so argumentative about this big push with B&W, its just not you there are others. I still contend there are others that don't listen, and are always right . Its like no one else has any experience. It grows tiresome listening to it , and I am not about to back off .

Who's money are we spending here ,yours or his :D He has a lot invested here, sure maybe another grand will solve it , but why not give what he has a shot, thats all I am trying to say. He can spend money later, if it comes to that .
 
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I got it boys I got it boys okay I have it in alt trailer height and I lowered the the ball on the end one notch and I got about six or eight inches of clearance on the truck bed rail you know on the bed rail all right well I just wanted to give you a couple of pictures I believe it's riding nice and level now I've got it nice and level or at least it looks that way you guys can give me your opinion but here's a couple of photos I'm out here at the weigh scale area near my house it's only about a mile from my house but well maybe Mom and 1/2 all right guys here's some pictures but yeah it's level I mean level now and it's riding great I think I may need to put a little bit of more air in the air bag on the trail are the temperature 70 right now last night it was it was yesterday was 94 and 95° so as you guys know when your temperature changes 20 degrees your pressure changes a lot too but the airbag I can see a difference later guys and it's not leaking.
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