I may have to get a 68RFE in my new truck.

[Wiredawg]

Stuart,

The matt will still put MORE pressure on the high ridges than the low ridges of your bed, but now introduces potential for more compression AND more leverage. The ONLY real solution to better distribute the weight of the hitch on the front and rear is to install ridged fillers that would basically double the surface area and support front and rear.

Just my opinion, how you set the trailer brakes should not affect damage to your bed. There should be NO condition where how you configure trailer brakes causes damage to the bed.

Still trying to help, but seems you THINK you have it figured out. Hope your next post isn't about WORSE damage to your truck or WORSE...

Good luck and cheers,

Ron

 

[brucejohnson]

Stuart,

The matt will still put MORE pressure on the high ridges than the low ridges of your bed, but now introduces potential for more compression AND more leverage. The ONLY real solution to better distribute the weight of the hitch on the front and rear is to install ridged fillers that would basically double the surface area and support front and rear.

Just my opinion, how you set the trailer brakes should not affect damage to your bed. There should be NO condition where how you configure trailer brakes causes damage to the bed.

Still trying to help, but seems you THINK you have it figured out. Hope your next post isn't about WORSE damage to your truck or WORSE...

Good luck and cheers,

Ron

If it were me I would consult with Andersen about using the mat, especially one so thick. Also, I would do a test using a recording micrometer to see the heavy plus and minus (acceleration - braking) movement of the hitch - trailer mounting point. I am teetering on the fence with the use of the mat, leaning on the pro side unless data can prove it otherwise...need data. My old brain has forgotten almost everything on force moments and calculations...similar to those fancy electronics calculations...like Some Old Horse Came A Hoppin' Through Our Alley. (Sine, Co-sine, Tangent) I know the mat is pretty solid, but I would have chosen the 1/2 inch or less mats to minimize compression in extreme acceleration and braking. Also, I would have cut the mat to exceed the inner and outer dimensions of the hitch's base plate by 1 or 2 inches and route reliefs for the high bed ridges; kind of like a custom fit gasket. This would displace the load evenly across the bed and reduce having to carry the weight of the full mat. (You could carry more rocks and jelly then. Ref: The Long Long Trailer ) First step - Consultation with Andersen. Plus triple verify all clearances with your hitch ball pointed to the front of the bed. A 15 degree entry/exit driveway may cause contact at the very back of your truck bed as the distance between bed and trailer will decrease with the pivot placed at the more forward point. Kinda like the old high school math quiz, the sun is 15 degrees above the horizon, the flag pole shadow is so long, how tall is the flag pole.
And thanks for clarifying the bed dent issue for those that missed it earlier on. Not necessarily a faulty design of the hitch, just an ah poo moment which we all experience at least once in life.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Stuart this is what you and "ALL" ANDERSEN owners need to do. Add a pc of hard plastic or hardwood as a filler. Lay in corrugation put a bit of construction adhesive on the top of the filler and place hitch on top and torque into place. Strips will stay attached to the hitch.

Look where your 4 angled tubes hit the base, right on top top of the filler pcs. This will transfer pressure from hitch to filler to bottom of bed to crossmember to frame. Simple fix!!!

BTW the hitch does NOT slide on the bed. It simply rotates fore and aft from the GN ball.

Get rid of that mat!!!

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I actually spoke to one of the more seasoned old pros at Anderson who actually is Co author of The patents for the ultimate connection and he had several people that had a similar problem to me and he had them use the horse mat and they had fantastic and great results whether that will be true I don't know??????

 

[Cummins12V98]

The POINT is WHY the HE!! should YOU have to do a DAMN thing to keep from denting YOUR bed?????????

 

[dieselshadow]

The POINT is WHY the HE!! should YOU have to do a DAMN thing to keep from denting YOUR bed?????????

Let it go. You’ve said your peace. No need to get excited over it. Stuart’s gonna do what Stuart’s gonna do. He’s an adult completely able to make decisions for himself.

All we can do is offer advice and our experiences and opinions. This is sorta like that old saying. You can lead a horse to water, but you can’t make him drink.

 

[Ozymandias]

The POINT is WHY the HE!! should YOU have to do a DAMN thing to keep from denting YOUR bed?????????

Yes let it go, it is ok now. Stuart made his decision. I think the same but it's ok now.

 

[Newsa]

I was staying out of this. The only reason to get upset is if the setup causes a danger to others on the road.

I don't know how firm that horse mat is. But it might cause some rocking due to front/back or side to side flex?

 

[brucejohnson]

I was staying out of this. The only reason to get upset is if the setup causes a danger to others on the road.

I don't know how firm that horse mat is. But it might cause some rocking due to front/back or side to side flex?

Well, I sure don't want to get hit with the mat or a chunk of it. It is high density, durable and doesn't compress very much. Kinda liked soft concrete; soft being a relative term. Horsey feet sure like it better than concrete and people like it better than soggy, muddy dirt stuff. The stuff in my barn has lasted over 17 years and, while not shiny and new looking, it is new acting. Don't fall from a ladder and expect it to absorb the shock. It is still almost as hard as concrete. Experience may be a factor in my description.

 

[Ozymandias]

Same density as tire rubber I would say.

 

[brucejohnson]

I actually spoke to one of the more seasoned old pros at Anderson who actually is Co author of The patents for the ultimate connection and he had several people that had a similar problem to me and he had them use the horse mat and they had fantastic and great results whether that will be true I don't know??????

While not in writing, it is somewhat encouraging.

 

[brucejohnson]

Same density as tire rubber I would say.

Pretty much. It's based on recycled tire rubber. Still, hard as a rock, and you don't need to check the air pressure.

 

[Wiredawg]

Friends,

This may be falling on deaf ears, but pics of hitch in bed reveal hitch isn't supported on the corners due to interruptions in the ribs on the truck. Appears to be the same rear facing and forward facing looking back in chapter 8, page 102 of this book.

EDIT: Revelation, those GAPS on the bed are where the PUCK go, when equipped.

MORE EDIT: CUT THE BEDMAT INTO LONG STRIPS AND USE AS FILLER SUPPORTS IN THE TROUGHS BETWEEN THE RIBS FOR BETTER SUPPORT.

Just saying that the multiple leverage arms in the air pin box, the hitch adaptor, and the hitch itself plus the corner areas of the hitch, plus less than half the contact are of the bed (every spaced rib plus the missing ones each side corner) could cause undue stress and possible bending of the bed. If any of the leverage arms increase, we could have greater deformation of the bed, like adding a thick bed mat that crushes or compresses under extreme torque (stopping). Lots of dangerous forces here.

Stuart, I just have to say, I'm a little scared for you... all but turning your trailer brakes off, changing configuration of your hitch and hitch adapter, playing with the gadgets on the truck while your driving 75MPH. Just saying, PLEASE be careful and THINK about all these things. We DON'T want to see your rig on the national news.

Be careful brother!

Ron

 

[Cummins12V98]

DAWG, ya better "LET IT GO"

Incredible. I state some facts backed up by a VERY NICE DRAWING and then it's OH POOR STUART.

 

[Wiredawg]

DAWG, ya better "LET IT GO"

Incredible. I state some facts backed up by a VERY NICE DRAWING and then it's OH POOR STUART.

I know... I've done all I can. Physics is PHYSICS.

 

[gsbrockman]

I know... I've done all I can. Physics is PHYSICS.

Do you run the B&W RVK 3050? Wasn’t sure if your CM had the turnover ball or not. Mine does, as I pull some gooseneck trailers with the 2&5/16” couplers and 3” couplers.

Gonna expand some opportunities with my Hauling operations, and have the RVK 3050 on order. I may be consulting some of you guys after I get it, as it does require some assembly and proper torquing of key bolts.

https://www.bwtrailerhitches.com/product/companion-flatbed-fifth-wheel-hitch

 

[dieselshadow]

DAWG, ya better "LET IT GO"

Incredible. I state some facts backed up by a VERY NICE DRAWING and then it's OH POOR STUART.

You and many members have stated facts in this thread over and over again. Some people are just gonna do what some people are gonna do. We try to help. I’m ASSUMING you are too. LOL

I’m not sure if you were trying to direct your post at me or what, but I sure didn’t say “poor Stuart.” I was just simply saying relax. There isn’t all that much you can besides what you’ve already done. My apologies if you thought I was talking down to you, that wasn’t my intent.

 

[Wiredawg]

Do you run the B&W RVK 3050? Wasn’t sure if your CM had the turnover ball or not. Mine does, as I pull some gooseneck trailers with the 2&5/16” couplers and 3” couplers.

Gonna expand some opportunities with my Hauling operations, and have the RVK 3050 on order. I may be consulting some of you guys after I get it, as it does require some assembly and proper torquing of key bolts.

https://www.bwtrailerhitches.com/product/companion-flatbed-fifth-wheel-hitch

Yes sir, RVK 3050 for 9 years on the 4500 and 1.5 years on my 5500. Stout setup.

Ron

 

[Wiredawg]

I've spoken to Stuart hours on the phone and here on the TDR, he's a good guy, a little high strung, maybe a little OCD, but a really good guy. Many of us in the gallery have experience and training that makes the TDR a valuable resource.

To me, its MORE important to DO right, than it is to BE right. In this case, what Stuart is modifying MIGHT work, but my concern there are multiple configuration changes and a potential for more problems simply slapping a thick mat down, applying 10ft lbs MORE torque on the hitch, and HOPING it works.

I came from a background of dangerous construction and electrical hazards... you get more type A instead of less when lives and property are at stake.

The bottom line is this: If Stuart came back and said: I found this thick bed mat that I'm going to have cut to the width of the bed rib troughs and place them in place to give the Andersen hitch 100% contact with the bed, and a stronger platform, I would've said GREAT IDEA. At some point, I'm hoping he has the opportunity to look at what several members are recommending and adapts his solution.

Even though I've mentioned I'm going to be "quiet" about it, my conscience and caring won't let me. Stuart is a good guy.

Anyhoo, that's my complete thoughts about it.

Cheers, Ron

 

[Stuart Carter Brandt]

I understand all your points guys all right well here's the pictures it's finished see how it works now and I understand about putting the pieces of rubber around the four corners I get it I understand it no problem at all again if your brakes don't work right it's going to overstress the Anderson anyway you cut it anyway you slice it and anyway you put it so I think I'm a little better off now with brakes that work or at least work very well but yeah here's a couple pictures enjoy.