i want to learn to weld...

[GHarman]

Camera Time

Hey all, Just thought I would let you know that I get to help out on a welding , maintainence project with a friend. He has a one man excavation company and is doing some repair on his loader bucket. Will be assisting in the "BURNING " of some rod tomorrow. Will take the camera and get some pictures of the work. We will be welding on high carbon steel that requires a preheat, using 7018 rod. Attaching some wear bars to the bucket. I've only done this once before, so there is always something new fer this busted up old dog to learn. Will post the pictures. I imagine that I will be supervising more than welding:{. The job will also require the application of hard surface rod. GregH

 

[GiesJ]

Greg -

Let's see some pics, esp that hard surfacing. We just finished some repair work to a 3" 516 70 vessel. Two butt joints. I'll try to get a couple pics this week.



Thenningsen - If you are going to invest in a 50# can and are worried about humidity, don't forget to look at rod ovens. I bet you can find a relatively inexpensive one so that you don't waste a bunch of rod or need to redry it.

 

[Coalsmoke]

Rod ovens are worth their weight in gold (at least to professional welders), but don't go sticking every type of rod in there. Some rods like 6010 actually need a small moisture percentage to burn properly, and should not be stored in the oven, just an airtight container. Now 7018, 11018 etc, keep them in the oven.

GHarmen, perhaps let him do the structural stuff but jump on the hard surfacing. Keep your head out of those fumes as much as possible.

 

[GHarman]

Coalsmoke, You betcha! We will move the bucket for the hardsurfacing. The repair work will be inside a shop with fans, From the MSDS on the hard surfacing rod, we would be better off, outside!, If the weather permits, to get away from the fumes. Dont know how much we will get done tomorrow. I cant do the "head down butt up, sparks a flyin fer 8-12 hrs a day" any more, otherwize I would be workin :{. So we will just get done what we can do! GregH

 

[rbattelle]

Thenningsen - I've found the local welding shop (Weiler Welding) to be remarkably affordable on welding rod. I buy Lincoln Excalibur 7018 from them in 5-lb cans for around $30 or so. I think that's pretty reasonable because the rods last me a LONG time.

This is 7018MR, which means "moisture resisting", so it (apparently) stores better than other stuff.

I don't have an electrode oven... I'm in the process of building one out of old toaster parts.

The rod gets cheaper on a per-pound basis as you buy more.

Ryan

 

[Coalsmoke]

Lincoln's (and most likely most other reputable brands) 7018 MR and MR-1 are good for 4 hours in exposed air, by the books of course. In reality around home you can go considerably longer providing that what you're working on is practice and does not require full structural integrity. That said, I've been on some ironwork jobs where guys were going quite a bit past that, but the 'cover your butt' limit is 4 hours. More food for thought than anything else.



Keep practicing and you'll be welding razor blades together before you know it:-laf

 

[GHarman]

U-DA-MAN, Coalsmoke!!!!! GregH

 

[Dl5treez]

Guys,



This is an awesome thread. Thanks for the great knowledge and insight.



I'm making this a sticky.

 

[Coalsmoke]

haha, thanks Greg.

Dl5treez, that's a good idea, thanks.

 

[GHarman]

The Excavator Bucket

Here it is, Gents (and Ladies?). Had my Friend call the manufacturer to inquire about the base material. A high carbon content with a recommended minimum preheat of 200* F. The shop was very well equipped, we even had a "smoke eater"!!! That was a life saver cause it was buttoned up tight till we had to persuade a wear strap around the curvature of the bucket with a "mobile press brake" and a little "rose bud time". Here is the setup. GregH

 

[GHarman]

Edge Repair

This edge was worn through more than 12" long and thin on the horizontal edge. Had to concentrate heat on the vertical edge and let the puddle wash over to the flat side. 7018 MR Lincoln Excaliber, 1/8". Miller Goldstar power supply. GregH

 

[GHarman]

Curling Flux

THenningsen, Here is a pad used to fill in a dent (2) and the curling flux from 7018. GregH

 

[GHarman]

Pads completed

Here are the beads that are overlapped to make the pad. I was following the contour and the shape of the dents. GregH

 

[GHarman]

The rest of the pictures are to large to transfer. Dont know how to resize them as yet.

Have about 3 more days on this bucket. Will have some more pictures. GregH

 

[rbattelle]

WOW, now that is cool stuff!!

How did you preheat something that large?

What current are you running? Are you running the beads continuously, or pausing along the length of each one to let it cool a bit? Any problems with warpage?

Ryan

 

[DJW]

Just the job for a flux core wire welder. The best (from an operator's opinion) in Low Hyd. stick, was a Japanese rod, a pure pleasure to use, felt I was paid for stealing when using it, after all the American Low Hyd. rod, Lincoln about the worst.

 

[GHarman]

WOW, now that is cool stuff!!



How did you preheat something that large?



What current are you running? Are you running the beads continuously, or pausing along the length of each one to let it cool a bit? Any problems with warpage?



Ryan

Hey Bud! We preheated the area that was to be welded with a Torch. The current is about 100 A plus or minus. The Miller power supply is a 40 year old dial 'em in unit. The welds are run until I run out of rod or come to the end of the area that needs a bead. No warpage at all. This is a very heavy bucket @ 30" wide. Structurally, very rigid.



If you need to heat a large object, I have seen weldors hook up a power supply with two ground clamps attached to the work piece and fire up the unit on a low amperage setting, letting it cook until it comes up to the desires preheat temperature. However, I would not do this with a good piece of equipment. GregH

 

[rbattelle]

Hey Bud! We preheated the area that was to be welded with a Torch. The current is about 100 A plus or minus. The Miller power supply is a 40 year old dial 'em in unit. The welds are run until I run out of rod or come to the end of the area that needs a bead. No warpage at all. This is a very heavy bucket @ 30" wide. Structurally, very rigid.

Wow... sweet! I forgot to ask how thick the metal is in the region you're welding.



You should get someone to take an "action" shot of you running a bead...



Ryan

 

[DJW]

GHarman, would the stingers also have to be hooked to the workpiece in addition to the grounds?

 

[GHarman]

Just the job for a flux core wire welder. The best (from an operator's opinion) in Low Hyd. stick, was a Japanese rod, a pure pleasure to use, felt I was paid for stealing when using it, after all the American Low Hyd. rod, Lincoln about the worst.

DJW, No flux core in that shop. The best Low Hydrogen I ever used was Certanium 707. Unfortunately, not available? And not a code rod. 'Course this is just rough welding and any Low Hydrogen rod in this class would have been fine. Lincoln Excaliber has been specified on many code jobs for at least 5 years. If it was that bad, there would be a replacement. I am sure you know the starts are the most difficult until you get the hang of starting your arc in the weld zone and then going back to the start of the weld and proceding back again through the arc start, burning out the arc initiation point. This eliminates the porosity that plagues this rod. GregH