2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission In bed Fuel tank

[Nate]

I got a couple 4'x9' sheets of metal from work the other day. They were free and I figured I could find a use at some point.



I was thinking of building an in bed fuel tank. The metal is 1/16", which I think is roughly 16 gauge steel.



Is that thick enough for a fuel tank? I was thinking of building a frame with angle iron and then skinning it with the sheetmetal.

 

[Bob Cochran]

I think the steel will work fine. Oo. Here I think will be the problem or potential problem. :-{} I had heard some people say that the tanks have to be DOT approved. If not for instance there is an inspection station Arizona to Nevada, and I heard someone say; they was required to drain the tank because it was not DOT approved. :{ I have no idea how true this is or if it should be of concern. I guess no more beer kegs!!!!



Oh and would be good to put baffles in it.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

I wonder about danger/possibility of internal rust and corrosion unless the metal was properly treated?

 

[jelag]

I have several trucks and each has an in bed tank and we run 6 western states, CA, OR, WA, NV, AZ, UT, ID as well as Alberta and BC Canada... We've built each of our tanks out of 14 gauge material and each has a 2" tilt to the floor so we can run down to about the last 1 gallon of fuel... We have a federal DOT number and have to scale and we've never been asked about the tanks... .



Our tanks take the fuel out towards the cab and out the plastic port thats in the bed. . we run the fuel through a filter, check valve and electric pump, pumping the fuel into a barbed fitting that is silver soldered into the filler neck of the main tank... . We weld the tank up... and pressure test it with 3-5 psi of air... . once we have the seams sealed we cut the fill spout and install it... . We than either powder coat them or have them sprayed with bed liner... They are bolted into the bed of the truck.....



We run down the road, filp the switch and the electric pump fills the main tank... . the check valve prevents this tank from flowing on its own. . since it higher than the stock tank... . The extra tank fills from the passenger side. . so we can pull into a card lock and take on fuel... . between the 2 tanks its usually about 120 to 130 gallons.....



Each tank has a couple of D-Rings welded to the top to secure stuff in the bed... each truck pulls a goose neck trailer... . We don't worry about rust... as the filters will stop them...



I think that covers it...

 

[Nate]

I wonder if there's enough water in the fuel to rust the inside of the tank?? I could see with gas since it's "dry" compared to diesel... but I would imagine diesel would basically keep the tank lubed to a certain point.

 

[Nate]

Jelag,



I was wondering, what did you use for the fuel fill, and the tank vent?



The slanted floor, is the bottom of the tank flat, and then you put another piece of sheetmetal in the bottom?? That's a pretty good idea.



I was thinking since I have a bunch of this sheetmetal, I can cut 2 pieces and stick them tother for the side of the tank that is exposed. That way if something hits it, it won't dent or puncture.





Right now my plans are the tank to be rail height, bed width and about 8-10" thick since I have a shortbox and don't want to take up a ton of room. It will be kinda like the old trucks that had the tank behind the back seat.



This will be about 40-45 gallons.

 

[Nate]

Ok I found a fill cap/vent with bung at the farm store for just under $50.



Now is 16 guage steel thick enough for a tank? I'm thinking of building an angle iron frame and then skinning it with the sheetmetal.



I'd used like 12 or 14 guage, but 16 guage is what I have and I'd rather not buy steel if I don't have to.

 

[moparguy]

I built a small tank that fits between the frame and the side of the bed on the passanger side. Used 16/th inch on the sides and top, but since this tank is somewhat more exposed than yours, I used 1/4 on the bottom. 3 years and so far so good.



Couple of thoughts, consider having a shop break your metal rather than making every 90 a weld. Saves lots of welding and chances for leaks. Also, if this is going to be a full size tank (100 gal or so), I'd weld in a few baffles to keep the slosh factor down. They will help with the strength factor as well.



Good luck, RJR

 

[jelag]

We throw stuff in the beds of our trucks all the time... . and it's easier to weld 14 or 12 gauge than 16 gauge... ... remember you should pressure test (3-5psi) and spay the seams with soap and water looking for leaks before filling.....



I build a slanted floor so that when we start to pump out of this tank we get all but about 1 gal from the bottom..... it makes no sense to leave 5 or 6 gallons of un-useable fuel.....



We generally leave the tanks close to full when the trucks are sitting... . my 05 at home hasn't been moved in 4 or 5 weeks and if the tank was empty moisture would from on the inside walls that might cause rust... .



We use the same fuel fill and vent mentioned above from the farm store... . I think this part is a crime... . its made off shore and I'm sure can't cost them more than $5 or $6 to import... based on the stuff we buy off shore... . but I think we pay something like 28 - 32 for the part that welds in. . and the cap... .



Jim

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

This in-bed tank is a commercial job, and is for tools/fuel - it's marketed as a "Cinderella box" for whatever that's worth. It looks to be about 16ga. , and the lower tank portion holds 50 gallons. I attached the wood panels seen to protect against punctures from stuff in the bed, and on the top to keep it from denting - so far, so good...



#ad

 

[Nate]

No kidding about that fill cap. I was like, $47!... Looks like a $4. 70 item to me.



Yeah I agree it's alot easier to weld thicker stuff. I have 2 4x9 foot sheets of this 16 guage to use, which were free. I think I can make it work with some bracing.



jelag, how is the floor setup to be sloped??

 

[jelag]

the tank has the front and back wall of the tank as a rectangle..... the sides are rectangles as well... . we just put the bottom in the tank with a slant... . so it fits inside the other 4 pieces... its welded to the bottom edge of the side and is 2" off the bottom on the other side... . so it slants from the passenger side to the drivers side... . our port to remove the fuel is a 3/8 weld in steel port from a hose supply company. . it matches the plastic plug going from the bed towards the cab... ..... we rest the tank on a piece of rubber so the edge of the metal won't cut through the bed... .



Jim

 

[Nate]

Well I went up the steel place today and put the order in for my tank.



19"x11"x63"... roughly 50 gallons after you factor in the vent space.



5'x8' 10 gauge $111 A 4x8 sheet of 11 gauge was $90, but not enough space on it.



Cutting and bending $100



I've got another ~$60 for the fill neck and other plumbing.



So under $300, which is quite a bit cheaper than the ones you can buy.



I might get it bedlined, about $100-125 to get it red (match the truck)

 

[Riverrat]

My local farm store has 100 gal L shaped tank to fit around toolbox $310. 00

 

[Nate]

Yeah they have those here too. The have been outside for so long there's at least 10-15 gallons of water in them. That's with the caps on, so I wonder where the water came from??



Problem is that I don't need a 100gal tank, they are cheaply built with no fittings on the bottom for a gravity tank.

Oh and I don't have a toolbox, so the L tank would waste a ton of room.

 

[blubyu]

I have a AL trucktoolbox/fuel tank made from AL. DOT approved. I would like to sell as it will not fit my swb, it will fit the lwb. Top nine inches is a box, the bottom is a 60 gallon fuel tank. Will take $350. 00 you pay shipping or pick it up. I am going to Tulare,CA FEB the 10. Can meet along the way. And no it does not leak. Sold my lwb is the only reason I am parting with it.

 

[Nate]

Nope, that's ok. I already have the steel being bent up for me and I bought all the parts I need. I'll be under that $350 any how.

 

[rubberneck]

Nate, dont worry about corrosion from the inside. We built a 30 gallon spare tire replacement tank for our 92 back somewhere in 93 or 94. It was 12 gauge and it looked like new inside when we sold the truck 7-06. We used a high quality paint on the outside and never had any problems with rust there. Granted we are in cali, so no salt issues. Since you are putting it in the bed, I dont think you will have any issues.

 

[Nate]

Well here's the start of my fuel tank.



I've got to build the fill neck setup and figure out where to put the drain and I'll be able to weld it all up.



I've never welded anything that needed to be air tight... or fuel tight in this case so it will be interesting to see if I have any leaks when I pressure test it.





2 baffles and 2 clamshells. The other piece of steel is scrap.

 

[steved]

For those concerned with water, Eastwood Company makes a tank sealer that would prevent that... you could coat it after you got it together and that would seal any pinholes...



steved