Injector Swap and more

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I've got a question for all of you out there that have done the 12valve injector swap. How long does it take, and what would I expect to pay? I was quoted 300. 00 and that was at 6 hours labor, sounds kind of off to me but I'm no pro. However the shop in question is no longer a option due to the diarrea of the mouth that the shop foreman had. If I remember right , and I'm sure I do he said "we don't like those engines cause the're throw aways" #ad
and again if memory serves me right I thought "ARE YOU A FRIGGEN MORON!!!!!! " My thoughts about this place were confirmed when they had to totally bleed the fuel system to get a friends 6. 2 going after a simple fuel filter change . I'm thinkin if these morons can do it I believe I just might give it a try, any tips would be appriciated

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1996 3500, slt,club cab, cummins, auto,3. 54 posi, straight pipe,A-pillar boost,trans temp,pyro ,stock plate and afc slid all the way forward

CUMMINS DIFFERENT

 

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If I recall the flat rate is something like 3. 2 hours. I'll check tomorrow at work to make sure.

 

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i've done a couple of sets now and even in say 95 trucks and lack of pullers I've managed to do them in under 2 by my self so I'm sure you can do it. I must say that the injector puller would be wise thow.
Other than that its pretty straight forward, pull lines and take em out, use new washers and fuel return washer deals then grease the o rings and your set. It may take some cranking to get it to fire again, but not much. (maybe 30second in my cases) Your set. Hope this helps. If anything those guys are bigger morons than I.

 

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maint. man,
Just do it yourself. It isn't that hard to do. You can make your own puller pretty easy, although finding a 14x1. 5mm nut to make it may NOT be so easy. I posted this a while back.

"You can make a simple puller for the 12V injectors by using a metric bolt 14X1. 5 thread, between 4 to 4. 5 inches long. Get the longest nut for that thread you can find. The longest one I was able to get was only 7/16 inch but it worked. Just use a big nut that will slide up and down the bolt but not go past the hex head for a slide weight. I used a 3/4 inch drive socket for mine. Thread the nut on to the end of the old injector and the bolt. Use your little slide weight and after a few whacks the old injector comes loose. (I got this little trick from Joe D, who also supplied me the 370s) The metric bolt and nut was hard to find here, had to go to a company that only sells nuts and bolts to find it. Home Depot, True Value, etc. did not have it. It was also expensive, $11 but I needed it now. In hind sight, I have a cheaper way. Just buy the 14x1. 5 metric nut. Get a SAE bolt (they are cheap) that will almost thread in and force it to jam the threads part way (make sure you have your slide weight on first) or you could braze or weld it on. Then you can thread the other end of the metric nut on to the injector. Do not use a bolt longer than 4. 5 inches. You will have problems with the last two injectors if you do. If you use a 3/4 in. drive socket like I did, make sure the socket end is facing down. You may have clearance problems with the back two if you have it the other way.
Thee are real good instructions on how to change injectors on the Diesel Dynamics website. Also make sure the slide weight you use is heavy. I used the 3/4" drive bud socket (the one I use to remove the inner rim on my med. duty trucks. ) By doing it yourself you will have more confidence in taking on other projects and not having to risk idiots, morons and other dummies from the netherworld touching your truck.


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1996 3500 Clubcab SLT, auto, 4. 10 limited-slip, TST #5, 370s, AFC spring kit, Psychotty, Dunrite converter, Trans-Go, DiPricol EGT, boost & trans temp. gauges, 9 ft. aluminum flatbed and tool boxes with Venco dump. Custom front bumper, Hadley air horn, PowerVision mirrors & 4" Stack Exhaust.

 

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Boy I was up in the night last night... . Motors manual gives a flat rate of 1. 5 hours to replace all the injectors.