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Installing a PTO on an NV5600

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Well after quite a few PM’s about my install I was finally talked into doing a write up on the selection and installation of a PTO on the NV5600 transmission (though other transmissions are very similar). I will do this with a series of posts that will follow something along the lines of what is a PTO/ how to select the features you want/some tips for installing it/designing your hydraulic system.



I will start off this first post really simple by answering the question “What is a PTO?”. PTO stands for Power Take Off. It is basically a small gear box that bolts on the side of your transmission and provides a source of mechanical energy i. e. access to a spinning shaft that is powered by your engine. PTO’s can sometimes be bolted onto the transfer case, but not on our Dodge. The picture attached below is very similar to the one that I used. It is really quite simple in design consisting of one gear that interfaces with a gear in the transmission, a sliding collar and shifter fork that engages the intermediate gear which in turn spins the output shaft. The collar and shifter fork work exactly like the central axle disconnect on the 2nd gen Dodge 4x4 front end.



The output shaft can be connected to many items including, for example, a driveshaft that directly powers implements like a worm gear driven winch, an electric generator, but in probably 99% of truck installs a hydraulic pump is connected to the PTO.



When it comes to PTO’s that will fit the NV5600 there are really two players, Muncie at www.munciepower.com and Chelsea at http://www.parker.com/ead/cm2.asp?cmid=10477 . I went with the Muncie product and will thus provide the most data about this PTO. The reason I did not go with the Chelsea is that it is a slightly larger unit, and as you will find out it is already a tight squeeze on my truck (4x4).



On the NV5600 there are two PTO covers, one on the driver’s side and one on the passenger side (cover plate with 6 bolts). Your first decision to make will be which side you want to go with. If you have a 4x4 this decision is easy as you must go with a passenger side PTO, the front drive shaft is in the way on the driver’s side. If you have a 2WD I would go with a drivers side PTO to make install easier (no messing with the exhaust). The other decisions that you need to make are having the “shaft high” or “shaft low”. If you look at the PTO unit you will notice that the output shaft is offset. On the passengers side you have no choice but to go with a shaft low configuration because of the location of the exhaust. On the driver’s side (2wd) I believe you can go shaft high which will help to protect the unit better. Though to really figure this out you must take into consideration whatever device you are attaching to the PTO and the clearance it needs. Your next decision is whether to have the output shaft pointing forward or backward. Because of the close proximity of the PTO with the bell housing it is pretty much a given that you will be going with a shaft pointing rearward setup. This next figure shows the possible orientations for the PTO.



Now the nice thing about both the Muncie and Chelsea products for the NV5600 is that they are re-configurable. They are designed symmetrical so that the shop where you buy it can make any PTO shaft-high/shaft-low/shaft-back/shaft-forward pretty much by flipping the parts over in the unit so don’t worry too much if you buy it and later decide to change its orientation. This happened to me, the shop thought there would be clearance on the drivers side even with my 4x4, they were wrong and no less then 5 minutes later they had the thing disassembled/reassembled and configured for the passenger side. The basic model for the Muncie PTO that will fit the NV5600 is the TG series. If you go to their website and click on the M-Power link, it will take you into an interface where you can spec out your PTO. Just select “PTO Application” from the menu and select “New Venture” then “5600” then choose which side you want “right side” for 4x4, then choose an application (dump body, wrecker, miscellaneous), it doesn’t really matter which one, you get almost the identical list of PTO’s. The important thing here is that it points to the basic model of TG6S-xxxx-xx. Next you need to decide what you are going to attach to your PTO. The reason you need to do this is you need to decide what output shaft speed you want at what engine speed (i. e. decide the PTO gear ratio) and also what particular output shaft mounting flange options you want. For my own use I wanted to power my hydraulic winches. I checked with Milemarker and the max pressure and flow the winches can handle is 1500 psi at 3. 5 gallons per minute (GPM). If you do the math on these values you will see that assuming 100% efficiency that you would be consuming right around 3 hp. Even if the efficiency is 50% that is only 6 hp. What I really wanted was a system that would provide me with 3. 5 gpm with the truck idling (I do not believe you need to rev or high idle the engine to get 6 hp!). Another constraint for me (self imposed) was that I wanted to use readily available hydraulic pumps from my local farm supply store. I sourced one with a volume per revolution that would give me right around 3. 5 gpm at 750 rpm. This meant that I would need a gear ratio in the PTO of right around 1. 0. The closest gear ratio was 1. 06 so I went with that, which gives me a TG6S–N1012-C2-BQ basic part number. Now this part number is for the “standard” output shaft and flange configuration. Because I was going with an agricultural type hydraulic pump I needed a female 3/4” keyed socket and a SAE Type A 2 Bolt flange on the end of my PTO. The flange I have on mine is very similar to this photo (this is the PTO for the Superduty).



If you go back to the original Muncie web page you will notice a link in the menu “Quick reference” there is a link from there that is titled “Part No. Construction Chart” click on that and it will give you all the part number info you need to meet your mounting needs (you may have to refer to other documents in this “quick reference” section depending on what options you choose).



As far as choosing a PTO that is about it, choose transmission side, choose gear ratio, choose output shaft and flange options. Don’t sweat it if you mess up because your local stocking dealer can reconfigure it pretty easily.



Some more things you need to consider as part of your overall system include the direction of rotation and how you want to actuate the PTO. You must make sure that your chosen device can accept rotation in the direction that the PTO will spin. For the TG series PTO on the NV5600 the PTO shaft will spin in the opposite direction from the crank shaft rotation. My chosen hydraulic pump is “reversible” by making some small modifications to the internals, but not all pumps have this feature. As far as actuation goes there are many options including lever, cable, pneumatic and electric. If you are mounting this on a 4x4 then there is really no room to mount anything but the cable actuated system unless you want to modify your exhaust to accommodate the actuator. More next post, but I will answer any questions you have so far, I am “on the road” so may not respond instantly. I will snap a few photos of my install this weekend.



Jonathan
 
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Finally! Woo hoo! I really look forward to seeing pics of your install. Oo.



So you run your PTO system at idle? That's pretty convenient.



Were any shims required to get the proper backlash for the PTO drive gear?



One thing I've been confused by is the output shaft options. Am I correct that your PTO drive shaft is a male keyed shaft (like the picture) and the hydraulic pump is a female keyed shaft to mate with it? Can the hydraulic pump be removed/replaced without draining any fluids?



Were any exhaust modifications required?



Can you talk a little about the hydraulic pump you chose? What are some of the advantages/disadvantages of the agricultural pump versus a non-agricultural pump?



I'm surprised the electric actuator won't fit. Although I suppose a good 'ol cable system would be slightly more bulletproof.



-Ryan
 
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rbattelle said:
Were any shims required to get the proper backlash for the PTO drive gear?

-Ryan



Always, they come with the kit.



One thing I've been confused by is the output shaft options. Am I correct that your PTO drive shaft is a male keyed shaft (like the picture) and the hydraulic pump is a female keyed shaft to mate with it?

Usually the oposite, male on pump, female on PTO



Can the hydraulic pump be removed/replaced without draining any fluids?

Yes, at least on the dozen or so I've installed

Jared
 
Excellent post. You're the first one I've heard of that actually used the PTO option on our transmissions! What else can we run off of this thing? Could it be used to spin an air compressor full time, or can the pto only be engaged at idle? So many possibilities. I'm looking forward to pics of your install.
 
Finally! Woo hoo! I really look forward to seeing pics of your install.



I will include some in my next post



So you run your PTO system at idle? That's pretty convenient.



For 5 or 6 HP that is all you need, now if you were trying to push 50 gpm at 2500 psi you would be talking 60 - 90 HP and would need to speed up the engine



Were any shims required to get the proper backlash for the PTO drive gear?



Yes, as Jared stated above the PTO comes with a shim kit, it consists of a couple different thickness of shims and a couple different thickness of paper gaskets. I was lucky and got it right my second try, my backlash was just a smidge too tight first setup so I went with the next thicker shim and was perfect.



One thing I've been confused by is the output shaft options. Am I correct that your PTO drive shaft is a male keyed shaft (like the picture) and the hydraulic pump is a female keyed shaft to mate with it? Can the hydraulic pump be removed/replaced without draining any fluids?



My PTO is a female keyed "socket" and my pump is a male shaft. I have not seen it any other way. Normally you would have a splined shaft if you stick with "standard" PTO pumps. I ended up with a keyed shaft because I went with an agricultrual equipment hydraulic pump.



Were any exhaust modifications required?



Sort of. The bolt on the cable actuator mechanism is very close to the exhaust and I did not want it to vibrate against the exhaust. Some heat with a torch and a couple of blows with a 3 lb hammer was enough to create a small flat spot on the exhust pipe o give just a little more clearance. Not sure if it is needed, but I don't have any vibration.



Can you talk a little about the hydraulic pump you chose? What are some of the advantages/disadvantages of the agricultural pump versus a non-agricultural pump?



The offering from Munice was going for about $CAN 600. 00, I got my pump for ~$CAN 250. 00 on sale. The farm supply store stocks rebuild kits, so no disadvantage there in terms of service. I am not sure of the relative durability of the two so I cannot comment there, but from having dissassembled the one I have, it looks pretty well built to me.





I'm surprised the electric actuator won't fit. Although I suppose a good 'ol cable system would be slightly more bulletproof.



I am sure the electric one can be made to fit. I will try and post an image of the different actuators later in this thread.



Jonathan
 
JOblenes said:
Yes, as Jared stated above the PTO comes with a shim kit, it consists of a couple different thickness of shims and a couple different thickness of paper gaskets. I was lucky and got it right my second try, my backlash was just a smidge too tight first setup so I went with the next thicker shim and was perfect.



Can you describe your method for setting and determining the backlash? The Muncie instructions I've read said to start the engine with the transmission dry and listen to the gears in the PTO. Then add or remove shims until they're quiet. Being the anal/extremely paranoid person I am, that seems like a very "sketchy" procedure.



-Ryan
 
Spooled-up said:
Excellent post. You're the first one I've heard of that actually used the PTO option on our transmissions! What else can we run off of this thing? Could it be used to spin an air compressor full time, or can the pto only be engaged at idle? So many possibilities. I'm looking forward to pics of your install.



You can run pretty much anything you want or more importantly can figure a way to hook up. The muncie PTO is good for right around 40 HP at speeds of up to 2000+ rpm depending on the exact model. Of course you can always go with an external gear box after the PTO if you want a substantially different shaft speed. But yes you could spin an air compressor. The PTO should be engaged at idle, but can be run all the way up to the publihshed max. speed which, if I recall, is in the range of 1500 to 2500 rpm depending on the PTO gear ratio/torque rating you go with. The nice thing about having the PTO coupled to a hydraulic pump is that you can do anything you want with the hydraulics after that, including spinning a hydraulic motor like my winch does. You could even spin your air compressor with the hydraulic motor. I do have visions of coupling a generator to the hydraulic system. Based on the system I have setup I can produce enough flow/pressure to spin a hydraulic motor 3600 rpm @ 8 Hp which would allow me to turn one of these nice little self contained generator units.
 
rbattelle said:
Can you describe your method for setting and determining the backlash? The Muncie instructions I've read said to start the engine with the transmission dry and listen to the gears in the PTO. Then add or remove shims until they're quiet. Being the anal/extremely paranoid person I am, that seems like a very "sketchy" procedure.



-Ryan



It is actually pretty easy, here is the graphic from the manual and is exaclty what I did. Basically you take the cover off of the PTO (the part where the actuator is mounted) to expose the gear that interfaces with the transmission gear. You use a dial indicator (with a magnetic base) on the PTO gear to measure the amount of play. If there is too little play you need a thicker shim ,too much play and you need a thinner shim. It is really very easy. You can just use a flat head screwdriver to push on the transmission gear and hold it steady while you wiggle the PTO gear back and forth to check the backlash. This is not a difficult job and I would recommend it even to the novice. The most difficult part is probably positioning the dial indicator itself as there is little room to work (unless you remove the exhaust completely).
 
Ah ha! Now that's how I know to set backlash! I thought you had to do that goofy "listen for the noise" thing. Finally, I'll have a good excuse for a dial indicator! Oo.



-Ryan
 
to use the pto though you have to have the transmission in gear... correct?. . or the transmission gears aren't turning so the pto can't turn... am i getting this correct? I think the air ptos on a truck wet system work different. I have thought about doing a pto on my nv4500 for adump or other stuff but i've been debating electric or pto hydraulic pumps. .

thanks

Deo
 
The PTO is driven by the countershaft in the transmission. So, normally you would have the trans in neutral to run the PTO. :D



Sean
 
so if it has to be in gear is the truck moving? could you please explain how this works. also is there any guidance for adjusting the idle with the PTO engaged?
 
If you wanted to adjust the idle using the PTO, you could activate your high idle feature if you have one, or you could use the Bully Dog Power Pup. It has a feature just for increasing the idle for PTO use.
 
well sean I thought thats how it worked but still little fuzzy here. I have used plenty of ptos live stick on old macks and 6 wheelers ,and air shift on the dump trailers I used to drive. . etc and log truck etc etc..... just trying to think it out. . if you press the clutch in and wait for the gears to stop or a clutch brake on the big trucks, then shift the pto in gear then release the clutch with the trans in nuetral the engine will spin the counter shaft and pto but not the mainshaft thats connected to the driveshaft etc. . right... ???? I think . you can still drive with the pto engaged. . but only low rpm and slow speed etc. . at least unless you forget to disconnect it hehe... . I just got a small "3 foot- 3 stage piston . . i want to make a dumping flat bed with removable sides and and a gooseneck hitch. . so the smaller 3 stage telespotic piston would be cool. . as a sissor lift would be in way of a frame mounted gooseneck hitch... . its a summer project. .

thanks

Deo
 
therabbittree said:
well sean I thought thats how it worked but still little fuzzy here...

Deo



For this application you simply push in the clutch, engage the PTO then let the clutch out to drive the PTO. If you leave the sifter in neutral the PTO will spin but the truck does not move (obviously). You can drive the truck with the PTO engaged but there is an RPM limit that depends on the PTO gear ratio. For the ratio I chose you can rev the engine to ~2400 rpm. My pump will also handle this rpm so I can winch and power the truck at the same time to get unstuck. I will get into details in a future post but I designed my hydraulic system to give a constant flowrate across all RPM ranges so reving the engine won't overflow my attached hydraulic components.
 
jobluenes, Fantastic! I have the milemarker setup and was severly procratinating about this project. Now I have the PNs. I can move forward and have my winch setup back.....

I like the idle setup. Oo.
 
Alright now here is the second installment in the PTO thread, installation. Installation is not really all that difficult. The only thing I can think of that people might have an aversion to is that you have to grind the transmission case. That and the gear backlash setting that was discussed above, it is not hard honestly, but I can understand being nervous if you have never done it, still my advice is to go for it. Because the gears lie in the same plane they are a good place to learn this skill, then you will be ready to tackle a more difficult setup like a differential where the gears are at right angles. The very first thing I would do when installing a PTO is to give the underside of the truck and the transmission a very good washing. Use a stiff brush around the PTO cover and on the bottom of the cab to make sure you will not have any stuff falling into the transmission. Having done the install myself my first piece of advice is to completely remove the exhaust system. Of course that is not what I did, but if I was to do it again I would. The first thing I did was to remove the turbo elbow as shown
 
Next, loosen pipe clamp on muffler and remove the downpipe bracket that attaches to the transmission bell housing (see photo). The front part of the exhaust should now sit down on the transmission cross-member. Ultimately you want this out of the way of the PTO opening on the passengers side. What I did was tie a ratchet strap around the pipe and pass it up and over the transmission and tied it to the frame on the other side. I then ratcheted the strap which pulled the pipe up and out of the way of the PTO cover.
 
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