2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Installing new brake pads—First timer.

[Sasquatch]

Hey, y'all. I've never done much more than change the oil and fuel filter. I rebuilt the starter motor using TDR member-supplied parts once. Installed Rancho shocks, links, and 4" exhaust. Other puttering, but I'm nobody's idea of a mechanic.



Yesterday, when I was rotating the tires, I noticed that the front pads are already worn down to a little more than 1/4" in thickness. The local dodge dealer did the front pads at 106,000 miles, and I'm just turning 120,000 now. I figure, with my ATS Commander controlling the exhaust brake (installed two weeks ago) that I'll save a little wear/tear on my service brakes, but I do city driving and stop 'n' go service work. The truck weighs close to 11,000 pounds when it's loaded with parts and tools, which is most of the time.



I've been averaging about 20,000 miles for a set of front pads, which means three trips to the dealer (at multiple hundred dollars a pop) each year.



Yesterday I bought some "severe duty" pads from my local NAPA dealer, and they're supposed to be really decent quality. I was going to put them on today, and the NAPA guy told me not to worry about turning the rotors (I couldn't, anyway) if they looked flat and clean, and I wasn't getting a "pulsing" when applying the brakes. I always try to adjust the rears via the standard backup-and-slam-on-the-brakes trick, but am dubious about its effectiveness.



Any pointers on changing the pads would be appreciated, or any thoughts in general on improving brake wear and performance.



Thanks.

 

[CATpower21]

Probably one of the best things you can do is to spend $15 or however many bucks it is for a Haynes repair manual for your truck. Its the best $15 you can spend, ive found it very helpful in walking you through repairs step by step.

 

[crabman]

Sasquatch,

I agree with C21, buy a manual, Haynes or the one from Chrysler. I have both, Haynes has more pictures but the factory manual covers everything.

First, do a search on brakes, be prepared to read for awhile.



Jack up truck and put jack stands under frame near front bumper, chock rear wheels.

Take off both tires.

Do one side at a time. That way you can use the other side as a reference.

Clean pins that hold B/pad in place, be sure to lube them with the proper lube.

If you haven't flushed the brake system now would be a good time.



If you have questions, post on the TDR and someone should be able to help you. Or you could invite some friends over who have done brake jobs before to give you some support and/or advice.

crabman

 

[Sasquatch]

Thanks, guys.



I'm embarrassed to admit that I've got the full-blown version of the Chrysler manual, and it's something I lean my forehead against whenever I need inspiration, but not something I've gotten a lot of use out of, except for the occasional reference on torque numbers and stuff.



Crabman's post—simple, srtraightforward "how-tos"—was what I had in mind, and I appreciate the time and thought reflected in your reply.



You know how it is when you haven't done something before, and then you do it, and it's not so bad. I guess this job fits that description.



My main concern is that I work out of this truck every day, Mon-Sat. , and can't afford to get into something, 'eff it up, and not be able to drive it the next day...



Blessings upon your pointy heads for the friendly responses.

 

[crabman]

Sasquatch,

We all have been there, done that! I also am a little hesitant to do some projects but I try to gather all the info on the project I can before I start.

Just remember:

"Everyone is smart, it just varies from field to field. " , a semi-quote from Will Rogers.

Good Luck!

crabman

 

[fkovalski]

I just ordered a set of pads- when talking to the service tech/ sales guy, he related to me a basic step: when pressing the caliper piston back into the caliper housing, be sure to let out the brake fluid through the bleeder valve rather than pushing potentially contaminated fluid in the lines back up to the reservoir, then top off as required.

 

[Mingoglia]

I use a C clamp to push the caliper back into the housing... just a tip I picked up along the way that has helped me considerably.



Mike

 

[AKAMAC]

This should do it for you!







Old thread

 

[Sasquatch]

Thanks, everybody, for your responses.