Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Is the 100K Valve Adjustment Needed?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel leak

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) codes

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Just about to turn 107,000 miles on my 2000 24V. Installed DD2's at about 25K mi. and that was the last time I had the valve cover off. The truck is running perfect.

Do I really have to adjust the valves? I'm a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of guy.

Bob in Sacramento
 
Had my valves done at 150K, tech said that only one of the valves needed any adjustment, my motor is completely stock, now with 173k on it. I'm a preventative maintenance kinda guy, but I think this was a waste of money...



Don
 
Don,

How much did they charge you to adjust your valves? I'm about 30k miles away from doing that preventative maintenance thing myself.



Clay
 
I have done the valves on a number of 24V trucks and have never found one that is beyond the spec range given. I always put them to . 010 intake and . 020 exh while I'm there though. I did mine at 244K (head gasket at 100K) and only had to adjust 4 rockers at all. I charge 200$ and change the oil and filter/lube chasis and pressure wash motor before adjusting. The oil change is after valve adjust. I go for a little drive to check for leaks and warm up motor. Any dirt that gets knocked loose with valve cover off is gone then. I did'nt gain any milage but have had customers swear they get from . 2 to 1MPG increase.
 
Hey I advise the valve adjust. I adjusted mine on my 12 valve the first at about a 104,000. I think recomendations it 45,000 on mine, not sure though.



Not many needed adjustment but reset them all anyway. Did notice a little more power afterwards.



I work in a Cat shop, and one of the first things that is done to a low power complaint it adjust the valves. It can make a difference.



Also have to rememeber there must be a good reason why cummins want the valves adjusted periodically.



Michael
 
I agree with Dan, I have had to adjust mine twice in 105,000 miles, of course bombs and driving style/habits/racing/ect, probably helped with the early needed adjustments.





Rob
 
The worst ones I have done are the 12V motors with the heavy valve spings for use with exhaust brakes. I did one the other day that averaged about . 035 on the exh. and was about . 012 on the intake. It did have 90K since it had been done the owner said. But we have a couple 12V with pacbrakes and the exh. is always way further out than the intake. The one without the heavy springs stays a lot closer to spec. I adust them every 50K. On the industrial and ag B and C series we adjust the valves at 1000 hrs.
 
24 Valve Adjustment?!

OK. I see all the posts on doing (or, not doing) a valve adjustment on the 24 valve. I have the opinion that if it ain't broke why fix it. I have 150K on the odometer and engine is running quite smooth and pulls very well. Mileage is in the low 20's; pulling 19,000 Lbs I get arouind 15 mph.

On-the-other-hand, it might be worth doing, I guess, just to assure myself all valves are in spec. I don't expect to improve power or mileage.

If I do it, how does the "BARRING TOOL" work? What is it? Can I make one, or do I buy one? Where?

If I do an adjustment I am only out the effort. If I don't do an adjustment what is thr risk of a valve problem developing?
 
1. LOOSE valve = noise and SLIGHT potential reduced power.



2. TIGHT valve = potential valve burning, lost compression, engine "miss".



That about covers it! ;) :D
 
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