Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Just a clutch question...

[plongson]

I just installed my new NV5600 and the SBC CON-OFE. It is a beautiful thing !!! The pedal pressure is easier than stock and there is NO chatter and is NOT grabby. It feels absolutly stock. It is a perfect combination, but on to the clutch question...



The engagement is right off the bottom of the floor. When the pedal is mashed all the way down, it is totally disengaged but starts to catch right away. In my line of thought, as the clutch wears, the engagment point will move up. Am I right???



Throw out bearing. It seems that the way the hydraulics are designed the reisdual pressure in the system keeps the throw out bearing in light contact with the pressure plate. I hope I am wrong, I hate to think of this bearing spinning all the time for no reason. I was taught at an early age to "Get your damn foot off the clutch, your going to wear out the throw out bearing" (SLAP ) the sound of a large hand aginst the back of my head :-laf

 

[plongson]

Any thoughts...

 

[nps]

Theoretically the engagement point should move up (away from the floor) as the disk wears. Don't know how the SBC feels - I put in a centerforce and it did move the engagement point closer to the floor, but not as dramatic as you are suggesting. Also, my stock clutch only had 30,000 miles and was slipping, but it still had plenty of surface left. If your replaced disk was significantly worn, it will make more of a difference. There is no adjustment on this hydraulic setup, and no way to bleed the cylinder either.



Suggest you click here and read about how to add a little insurance to your slave cylinder line.



The throwout bearing is attached to the fork with clips. When the pedal is released the return spring on the fork will pull back the bearing from the pressure plate.

 

[plongson]

The throwout bearing is attached to the fork with clips. When the pedal is released the return spring on the fork will pull back the bearing from the pressure plate.

There was no return spring on the fork, just the spring clip on the pivot ball holding the fork in place. On the other side is the actuator (slave) pin that pushes the fork. I wonder what the deal is???

 

[PC12Driver]

The hydraulic clutch self-adjusts kinda like hydraulic disk brakes. As material is worn off the face, the slack is "replaced" with extra fluid from the reservoir. Mine still starts to engage as soon as the pedal comes off the carpet (after 1 1/2 years).



Is it starting to get grabby yet? Mine felt as smooth as stock 'till everything seated after a couple hundred miles. It's still not bad, but it does take more finesse than the stocker, especially with a trailer.

 

[nps]

There was no return spring on the fork, just the spring clip on the pivot ball holding the fork in place. On the other side is the actuator (slave) pin that pushes the fork. I wonder what the deal is???

R&Red mine about 9 months ago, so don't recall the exact setup (symptom of getting old).



The return spring is on the pedal, which will withdrawl the slave cylinder pin when the pedal is released. The slave cylinder pin also clips into the fork, which provides a positive link.



I'll have to check in the shop manual tonight for an exploded view of the parts to refresh my memory. I was a bit concerned about the clip-together setup, but made sure all the clips were tight while I was in there, particularly since one of the factory throwout bearing clips was broken when I took it out.

 

[CORed]

NSnyder, do you know if the recommended "insurance" for the slave cylinder that you had a link to above just applies to the 6-speeds? It was not clear in the article itself, although the individual with the problem had a 6-speed too.



Just wondering if you knew.



Steve

 

[plongson]

The slave cylinder pin also clips into the fork, which provides a positive link.

I would very much appreciate you looking at the exploded view. I don't think there was a clip or retaining spring on the actuator cylinder pin when it came apart.



I gotta get a book on this thing...



Paul...

 

[nps]

NSnyder, do you know if the recommended "insurance" for the slave cylinder that you had a link to above just applies to the 6-speeds? It was not clear in the article itself, although the individual with the problem had a 6-speed too.



Just wondering if you knew.



Steve

Steve - The individual with the problem was me under a different TDR user name.



The slave cylinders are the same for the 5 and 6 speeds so it all applies - really makes you wonder why they don't just spend the . 001 cent on the cotter pin from the factory to augment the rolled pin.



Paul - I'll look it up. 99. 999% sure that the slave pin clips into the fork socket - just pops in and pulls out of a clip socket with mild to moderate force.

 

[nps]

Paul,



Service Manual provides some interesting reading.



First, there is a retaining clip on the slave cylinder actuator pin. It is a circular clip that attaches around the release fork, presents a circular hole to the actuator pin, and engages a small groove in the end of the pin.



However it also states that the slave cylinder has an integral spring that preloads the throwout bearing and provides for "zero free play operation". Kinda like a surrogate foot on the pedal all the time. Now that I read that, I do remember that there was spring tension pushing the slave cylinder out, and once the bolts were started the slave was pulled tight by the bolts. So by design, the foot is alway on the pedal!



It goes on to say that the reservoir is prefilled and (in bold letters) "the level will actually increase as normal clutch wear occurs". It also cautions against overfilling or removing fluid for this reason. Although confusing at first, you have to think of the fact that fluid is being forced from the reservoir when the clutch is disengaged, and fluid is returned to the reservoir when the clutch is engaged. Because of the spring action in the slave, when engaging the clutch and as wear occurs the slave is allowed to return farther, thus forcing more fluid back into the reservoir. Guess the same theory applies to the brakes too Still don't know if I fully buy that argument.



Hope this helps.

 

[plongson]

THANKS for tracking down that information!! I did some homework on my own and found out the same thing about the "Zero play" thing... Seems like a bunch of crap to me. I would REALLY like to see the Throw out bearing TOTALLY disingauged. Seems like it is just asking to wear out. Thanks again for your help!!



Paul...