Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Just Bought Guages, How Do I Read Them?

[MKline]

I just purchased Isspro guages (pyrometer, boost, and pillar mount). I was just wondering what is a dangerous level of EGT? and what am I looking for from the boost guage? Is low boost the problem to watch out for? If so, how low is threatening?



Since I'm on the subject, how hard will these be to install? Do I install the pyrometer pre or post? Will I need any special tools?



Sorry for so many questions on 1 thread.



Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[FordCummins]

You are defintely gonna want the pyro probe PRE turbo. It will be much more accurate this way. Usually, 1250 is a good temp to use as a rule of thumb not to exceed for more than a minute or so. 1200 all day long. Boost is harder to judge, it will vary alot on conditions such as load, speed, modifications and so forth.....

 

[WDimig]

lot of opinions on this subject, basiaclly cummins has stated that no more than a sustained, key word substained temp of 1250 deg. F pre turbo pryo. now would i ever run at the temp, no way mainly because you are soo close to borderline engine damage, if you running at that temp for a sustained period of time, or more than a couple of minutes. now, i see 1500 degress daily, which is not a problem, becuase the longest time that ive seen that is no more than 15 sec. , it all about the duration that you run that temp at. if you towing, watch you gauges, you pryometer will indicate a melt down situation if one is going to occour, also you coolant temp gauge will start going haywire when those temps are sustained, but do not rely on your coolant temp gauge to tell you of a problem, by the time you see anything happen witht the coolant temp gauge, it will be too late.



wes

 

[Matthug]

1200 sustained is a good number, remember the gauge isn't 100% accurate. You can go up to 1500 but for no more than 20 seconds.

With my truck bone stock and empty I couldn't get above 900 EGT's, talk about de-tuned! Boost was only at 8 PSI too on the stock WH1C! I slid the stock plate full forward and got 1000 out of it at 20 PSI boost on an HX35.

Cummins designs the stock setup so you can stand on it all the day with a load in tow and not worry about EGT's with no gauges. Only when you start modding do you need gauges.

 

[MKline]

1200 sustained is a good number, remember the gauge isn't 100% accurate. You can go up to 1500 but for no more than 20 seconds.

With my truck bone stock and empty I couldn't get above 900 EGT's, talk about de-tuned! Boost was only at 8 PSI too on the stock WH1C! I slid the stock plate full forward and got 1000 out of it at 20 PSI boost on an HX35.

Cummins designs the stock setup so you can stand on it all the day with a load in tow and not worry about EGT's with no gauges. Only when you start modding do you need gauges.

Did sliding the stock fuel plate do anything for power?

 

[CarlJensen]

A stock truck won't give you much to worry about. It's nice to see what is going on in there though. I have run as high as 1300 to 1400 in mine with up to 28 pounds, or so. of boost while towing 12 to 13 thousand pounds. My #5 plate is in stock position with a BHAF for a little better air. I am still going to lose the cat and install a new full flow muffler to bring that down a little. Star wheel is all the way forward too. Slide your plate forward and run the starwheel forward for a little more free power. Any thing more and you had better look at improving the transmission a little. Check your timing also.

 

[Matthug]

Did sliding the stock fuel plate do anything for power?

20-30 HP on a 160-180 pump and more like 40 HP on a 215 pump.

Carljensen if you get a straight 4'' exhaust system on there that will drop your EGT's down to atleast 1200 where they should be. That cat really sky rockets EGT's when towing.

 

[BK]

If your trying to conserve fuel, the gauges help as well.



All the above numbers are for maximums as not to fry a turbo when bombing or driving/towing hard.



To conserve fuel, a buddy of mine was a truck driver and was taught by Cummins to drive 5 and 6... no more than 5lbs of boost and no more than 600degs EGTS.

The Right gear & the "right" foot attitude, and you can get good fuel economy with long engine life.

 

[ttbird]

not too bad to install- trans temp is easy, boost requires you to replace a bolt on the head with a special one, instructions should tell you which one. Pyro requires you to drill and tap the exhaust manifold, pre turbo is best for real time temps. One tip though, when you drill the exhaust manifold don't drill it dead center, offset one way or the other cause there's a rib in the casting of your stock manifold in the center and it makes drilling hard as well as tapping. Good luck.

 

[CarlJensen]

Install the pyro probe pre turbo and drill/tap it to the rear of the manifold. This gives you the temps for the rear cylinders which are slightly hotter. With the 95 you can put a transmission temp on easy, There is a port allready in the hot line to the cooler. Just remove the sensor in there, put a 1k ohm resistor into the harness and seal it up, then install the new sensor in the port with a reducer, gives you a good transmission temp reading. For boost, on the 95, there is a 10mm bolt in the manifold in back of the P Pump about a third of the way to the rear. Install a bib and install the boost line there. You have a 160 pump on that machine, not as strong as the 215 or an HO but you can get a lot out of it. Nice thing is the truck is mechanical, not computer controlled. Makes life a whole lot less complicated.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Remember the pyro can also tell you when to shut down - try to let the tmep drop as close to 300° if possible. Better for engine and turbo. Less heatsoak.

 

[MKline]

Thanks again for all the tips. I just installed them yesterday and they work great, it was a breeze to put them in. I,m also happy I got them before I went and experimented with the plate and AFC. I could definatly tell the difference from stock to mod (EGT,s at least).



Thanks, Matt

 

[Matthug]

It's always good to get a baseline of how everything acts when it's stock before you go modding. Happy BOMB'ing!

 

[bmoeller]

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm