kdp

[Joseph Donnelly]

Vibration of the pin causes it to move and it could wear on the tab over time.

 

[GAmes]

Vibration of the pin causes it to move and it could wear on the tab over time.

550k on mine so far. Of course, I have no way of knowing if it is loose enough to vibrate. The majority don't move at all. The pin falling out is an anomaly.

Besides, the point was you don't need a $65 kit. Any piece of metal, even a washer, is sufficient.

 

[Rosie the rustbucket]

550k on mine so far. Of course, I have no way of knowing if it is loose enough to vibrate. The majority don't move at all. The pin falling out is an anomaly.

Besides, the point was you don't need a $65 kit. Any piece of metal, even a washer, is sufficient.

Got it opened up and the pin looks snug… maybe I will use the bottom of the beer can or even crack open a bottle and use the cap.

 

[Rosie the rustbucket]

I would use a tab thicker and stronger than a piece of beer can. Use a longer bolt if needed.

Of the 5 bolts, you can get on 4 directly and remove them. The fifth is hidden behind the cam gear and not in line with one of the windows, so I just tighten it with a bent open end 10 mm wrench.

Thanks for the tip. I was figuring it was going to be a labyrinth.

 

[Signal73]

A fully seated tab isn’t flush with the case like yours, usually they are about 1/16”-1/8” in. I’d tap that back into place and use a recommended material as a tab.

 

[Rosie the rustbucket]

A fully seated tab isn’t flush with the case like yours, usually they are about 1/16”-1/8” in. I’d tap that back into place and use a recommended material as a tab.

I think this will work as long as there isn’t a great deal of pressure driving the pin out. It’s a scrap of joist hanger so about a heavy 1/16”.

 

[BigPapa]

I think this will work as long as there isn’t a great deal of pressure driving the pin out. It’s a scrap of joist hanger so about a heavy 1/16”.

Yes, that will work. I wouldn't tap the dowel pin. It's probably set where it is and it's fine.

 

[Signal73]

I like that!

 

[BigPapa]

I will say, just looking at the head in the pic, it doesn't look like you cleaned it off very well. As Gary mentioned, the bolts are at least if not more of a danger than the dowel pin. It is absolutely necessary to clean the threads on the bolt and in the hole and put Loctite on them.

 

[Rosie the rustbucket]

I will say, just looking at the head in the pic, it doesn't look like you cleaned it off very well. As Gary mentioned, the bolts are at least if not more of a danger than the dowel pin. It is absolutely necessary to clean the threads on the bolt and in the hole and put Loctite on them.

I used brake clean and rinsed the holes out a few times. Some of the residue in the photo is from rinsing the holes after I put the bolt back in. I did use blue loctite after cleaning the bolts too. The bolt adjacent to the dowel was quite tight. The ones one the cover were varied in their tightness. Thanks for taking note.

 

[moparguy]

My (copy/paste) report from about 250,000 miles and 22 years ago is below. So far so good at a tad over 300,000 miles.

"When I opened up my little Cummins, I had a great looking tab made and was hot to install it. However, after driving the pin back in, I used a short sharp punch and working around the perimeter of the dowel hole, drifted the soft aluminum over the edge of the dowel pin.
I suspect this alone would have been a permanent repair, but as a little added insurance, I used brake cleaner to clean things and applied green penetrating Loctite to the dowel. I also removed, cleaned and Loctited all the bolts I could access while I was at it.

I didn't use the tab, my logic being that it would be one additional thing to come loose and wreak havoc in the nearby gears.

Good luck with whichever method you use."

RonR