Leaky Coolant Hose Behind Turbo

[mwilson]

To anyone that has the cold weather antifreeze leak behind the turbo***



Cummins has a new hose and clamps for that. They have changed the clamp from a worm style to a wide squeeze style clamp that will keep a constant tension on the hose.



The Part Numbers are

Hose 4939438

Clamps 4930327 (2 req. )



I have them here on my desk, just arrived today. Plan to change it when I am putting the engine brake on next month. $11. 00 dollar repair for a constant P. I. T. A. Oo.

 

[MrFixit]

Is this that one that is about 3" long that when it leaks, you think it is your transmission (auto) because it exits the bottom of the bell housing?

 

[mwilson]

Yes, that's the one. It is a chunk of silicone heat resistant hose which is fine, but they used worm gear clamps. You tighten them, then the hose starts crawling out through the slots in the clamp and loses tension. It is a no-no to do that but they did it anyways... ...

Here is the part diagram for it, hose is #11 and clamps are #10.

 

[KMNixon]

Great - I have been chasing this for the past 2 weeks. Thanks for the info.

 

[E2360]

Simple repair but time consuming. In order to get the rear pipe to move you need to loosen it on both sides of the engine. The Drivers side nut that holds it in place is a little tricky to get at. Plan about an hour or so to drain the radiator and repair. new hose is a lot nicer than the old foil coated one that was on originally. I used a little plumbing grease on the inside of the hose to get it to slide on easier.

 

[carl07230]

Belt schematic

You don't happen to have a belt schematic for an 2004 do you. Gota make sure i got mine back on rigt. No there aint no diagram under the food or in the manual. Thanks

 

[mwilson]

Found this, see if that helps.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ntine-belt-change.html?highlight=belt+routing

 

[JGheen]

To anyone that has the cold weather antifreeze leak behind the turbo***



Cummins has a new hose and clamps for that. They have changed the clamp from a worm style to a wide squeeze style clamp that will keep a constant tension on the hose.



The Part Numbers are

Hose 4939438

Clamps 4930327 (2 req. )



I have them here on my desk, just arrived today. Plan to change it when I am putting the engine brake on next month. $11. 00 dollar repair for a constant P. I. T. A. Oo.

If truck is still under warranty, will dealer fix this? I would do it and pay for hose & clamps but since truck is still under warranty, they should take care of it right?



Joe

 

[mwilson]

I think that it would only be covered under the 3 year / 36,000 side of things. Even though it is a Cummins part it is part of the trucks heater. That is how they got around it on mine.



Besides that, when they looked it up for my truck it showed the plumbing for a manual trans truck which is different as they don't have a transmission cooler like the automatics do. I told them over and over that the Mopar parts CD was not right, finally told them I would look it up and get the darn parts myself... ... ... . Looked it up in Cummins by engine serial number and it showed the correct parts.



Sometimes it is just not worth the aggravation of trying to get warranty on the smaller stuff. #@$%!

 

[JGheen]

Sometimes it is just not worth the aggravation of trying to get warranty on the smaller stuff. #@$%!

I definately hear ya there, guess it's best to do it myself.



Was it necessary to drain all the coolant out? I would think I could get by just letting what coolant was in the line just run out and top it off after the fix... ... .



Joe

 

[KMNixon]

Need source for the updated hose and clamps - Lone Star Dodge in SA,TX want $16 for just hose and they say don't worry about the clamps but I want to do it right.

 

[mwilson]

Go to your nearest Cummins Distributor or Truck Dealer, use the part numbers at the beginning of the post. Dodge dealer is way out in left field with that price.

You are right to not let them talk you into using the clamps over. In my opinion the worm clamps cause the issue in the first place.



You have 3 truck dealers that are Cummins certified in the San Antonio area according to the Cummins directory.



Rush Truck Center 210-661-4511



Grande Ford Truck 210-661-4121



Santex Truck Center 210-661-8371



Any of those three dealers can sell that hose and clamps to you. You may have to wait a day or two but worth it in price.



Let me know if I can help further.

Mike

 

[KMNixon]

Thanks Mike - ended up ordering it all from the local Cummins dealer for $8 + tax.



2006 2500 Quad Cab LB Auto 2wd 3. 73's

White ext w/ grey interior and only 70,300 miles

 

[mwilson]

Great, that price sounds a lot more in line. Gotta' wonder about those Dodge stealerships sometimes.



Good to go now. Oo.

 

[ScottLewis]

Anyone have some tips about loosening the pipe mounting bolts? I'm having trouble getting to them with tools and the FSM is of no help. I have an e-brake partially in the way.



Maybe I'm just geting too old and inflexible for this kind of work. :{



Dan

 

[mwilson]

Dan,

I have not changed mine yet so am of little help to you.



I have a new E-Brake to install and am waiting for a little warmer weather before I change the pesky little hose and install the brake. I figured that the best time to do it is while I have the fender liners out and front wheels off so I can wedge my pudgy arms, etc. in there. :-laf



It is not a big deal to pull the Right Side fender liner out. Would that help you?? Are you trying to move the front tube section or the rear tube section??

 

[ScottLewis]

Thanks Mike, maybe I'll have to post my method after the project.



I thought about removing the fender liner, that was my next step. I planned on loosening the rear pipe based on the few posts on this thread but whichever is easier would suit me fine.



My e-brake was dealer installed and I'd much prefer not having to remove it.



So far I haven't bought the hose. The local Cummins guy is looking for one for me.



Dan

 

[mwilson]

I have to work tomorrow but Sunday will pop the hood and see if I can create a decent strategy. I have been thinking that the rear tube would be easier to move a little bit so that the hose could slid on all the way and then pulled up when you bolt the pipe back in. Maybe the trans cooler on the left side will not allow that.

 

[ScottLewis]

E2360 posted comments that indicate he made the repair. Perhaps he will chime in with suggestions before we actually get to it. Haven't heard back from the local Cummins dealer yet.

 

[ScottLewis]

A little update:

I was unable to get a hose from the local Cummins parts dealer so decided to go to Dodge part. Wound up costing $17 but at least I have it in hand NOW. Strange that it is a Cummins Parts package and has the Cummins part # printed on the hose but the Mopar part sticker on the package.



I found a similar thread on a Cummins forum that indicates removing the wheel liner makes replacement easier so that's how I'll start later today.



Dan