Load Trail Gooseneck Dump Time.

[NIsaacs]

One load removed, one to go. He yarded 2 of the garden tractors into the stock trailer with a small, portable, drill driven winch.

Those little 8.00x16.5, 2k rated, 28" tires gotta go, no ground clearance or load rating. The plan is to swap the RV tires (6 bolt), wheels and hubs with the stock trailer (8 bolt), they both have 6k axles.

 

[slowmover]

Delete

 

[NIsaacs]

Second load removed. My son can't go, the Cell company just dropped 5 more Cell tower bases to his schedule, this year, along with the ones already scheduled.

He told me to leave the plow, too much hassle, volume and weight for my little pickup. Especially with unknown quality tires on the trailer.

Found out the trailer is an '80 Redi Haul, made in Fairmont, MN. Current 16k model:

Strange coincidence but one just listed here for sale local. '98, 25' tandem dually.

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https://www.redihaul.com/product/rh16-f.php

 

[JR]

Yes, but not until about 10-3, my son can't get away until then, he is going to help me with his Ford My brother will get them off site for us.

I would like to keep the flatbed but my son has already expressed interest. To help offset the cost he has offered to haul it down here for $5 a loaded mile I said okay but you have to tow the plow

His Load Trail that I picked up for him in 2016, broke down this summer with a big job in New Mexico scheduled so I sold him my new D/C so right now I have no way to haul the Case loader. It is too heavy for my equipment trailer. My dump has the capacity but it attracts attention with the bucket on the gooseneck, I would like to avoid that.

My brother bought this little guy, 11 hp, 1 liter, 4 cylinder, flat head Continental. It was promoted as a better way to farm V/S horses. Most of the farm tools were mounted under the belly, so it was called a mounted tool carrier.

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My Grandfather had one of those that sat in the back corner of his shop for years. I don't remember it ever running.

Will you be going alone now?

P.S. those rice and canes work better when turned around

 

[NIsaacs]

Looks like it JR. I reached out to my other boys but...

Looks like I can't use my W/D hitch. The trailer frame is 3" wide and my over center clamps are 2.75"... I can't find a 3" set.

 

[NIsaacs]

My brother said he can easily modify it to fit so I went ahead and installed the hitch in the receiver. Since the hitch is 2", I had to use the sleeve, I don't like it. So, I ordered a 2.5" shank that will fit my hitch and had it drop shipped to him, since I will leave before I could get it. I was not looking forward to towing that beast without it. With the flatbed, stock trailer and 3 garden tractors, I would guess the load will be about 11k. Not a heavy load but more than I like on a standard hitch.

I won't be taking the freeways, it is a little quicker but farther. The back roads suit me nowadays, the stock trailer is going to catch some wind at high speed. We will load it forward to help with that and also reduce hitch weight.

 

[NIsaacs]

This one is black, about 8" I-beam. So maybe an economy model. It is the LS model or "light series".

Still have converter trouble. The battery was dead this morning and no converter, 12 volt power at all. I was busy today so all I did was disconnect the neg cable and hooked up the charger and unplugged the power cord. I will have time tomorrow to see what the heck...

Turns out the convert is bad, so I ordered in a replacement. Different brand, but still 55 amp, made in USA and appears to be identical. The oem replacement was slightly different in the mounting, I was not okay with that. It also came with a new circuit board and will charge all the modern batteries.

I was surprised with all the reviews of converters, they appear to be a common failure point.

Also pulled the plywood patch off the broken window and dropped it off at the glass shop. They can cut it but have to send it off to get tempered. That will take 2 weeks. So we repatched it

 

[NIsaacs]

Will head north in the morning with my little truck, loaded to about the max 10K. (2) barrels of used oil for my brothers waste oil furnace, (2) 265/70x17, Cooper ST Max cast off pulling tires, will work for trailer spares and in a pinch will work on the truck. (4) crates of chains, binders and straps.

Taking this hitch to trade out the pintle hitch, not a fan of them for a pickup. Also, will trade my son's hitch (3") that don't fit his '19 Ford but will fit my brothers '20. He has his old 2.5" off his "19. 3" hitch is huge.

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[AH64ID]

Turns out the convert is bad, so I ordered in a replacement. Different brand, but still 55 amp, made in USA and appears to be identical. The oem replacement was slightly different in the mounting, I was not okay with that. It also came with a new circuit board and will charge all the modern batteries.

I was surprised with all the reviews of converters, they appear to be a common failure point.

Also pulled the plywood patch off the broken window and dropped it off at the glass shop. They can cut it but have to send it off to get tempered. That will take 2 weeks. So we repatched it

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I have the PD4600 and it’s a great converter. It’s able to run without a battery, so you can disconnect the battery to not overcharge it and still have DC power when plugged in. I disconnect my batteries 3-4 days after being plugged in so they are fully charged and don’t overcharge. I then turn the battery switch on every few months for 2-3 days.

 

[crispyboy]

The Progressive Dynamics are a "smart converter" so they will not cook a battery like the older chargers or some of the cheap chargers. You can keep them charging your battery 24/7 and won't hurt the battery. It's good to have a battery in the system as it will help cushion the 12v loads when you switch several things on at one time.

 

[AH64ID]

The Progressive Dynamics are a "smart converter" so they will not cook a battery like the older chargers or some of the cheap chargers. You can keep them charging your battery 24/7 and won't hurt the battery. It's good to have a battery in the system as it will help cushion the 12v loads when you switch several things on at one time.

They wont overcharge as easily as some other converters, but they still can overcharge. They are not “smart” like NOCO chargers are, in that they don’t ever shutoff the charge voltage.

Anytime the battery voltage is above resting voltage it’s applying some level of charge and that is what can have a negative effect on battery life overtime.

PD also says their converters have no issues running without a battery. The only 12V load I’ve noticed the converter doesn’t initially like is the slide and I was only doing that for testing.

 

[slowmover]

After 13.2V the Fourth Stage is Storage/De-sulfation Mode on a P-D with “Charge Wizard”.

NOCO or some other may be better in some fashion, but after 12-years I’ve not seen degradation of battery life (2X T-105 Trojan) in having swapped in a P-D at the outset of ownership.

I went to current owners manual on 4600 and saw nothing different in this regard save integration vs adding the C-W.

There are maybe better converters for a TT, but these seem bombproof. Inexpensive.

Running several circuits on another type trailer might be desirable where AC Mains connection would also apply (and genset).

Saw a funny pic this morning of a guy in FL took his coffeemaker out to the truck tailgate (Ford?) to make a pot.

.

 

[AH64ID]

After 13.2V the Fourth Stage is Storage/De-sulfation Mode on a P-D with “Charge Wizard”.

NOCO or some other may be better in some fashion, but after 12-years I’ve not seen degradation of battery life (2X T-105 Trojan) in having swapped in a P-D at the outset of ownership.

I went to current owners manual on 4600 and saw nothing different in this regard save integration vs adding the C-W.

There are maybe better converters for a TT, but these seem bombproof. Inexpensive.

Running several circuits on another type trailer might be desirable where AC Mains connection would also apply (and genset).

Saw a funny pic this morning of a guy in FL took his coffeemaker out to the truck tailgate (Ford?) to make a pot.

.

Even without the charge wizard the PD will go into the de-sulfation mode every 24 hours for 15 minutes. It still holds the batteries above resting voltage the rest of the time thou.

They certainly are one of the best bang for the buck converters available.

My batteries are going on 11 years old and going strong. They aren’t connected to the converter during storage with 120V power.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Turns out the convert is bad, so I ordered in a replacement. Different brand, but still 55 amp, made in USA and appears to be identical. The oem replacement was slightly different in the mounting, I was not okay with that. It also came with a new circuit board and will charge all the modern batteries.

I was surprised with all the reviews of converters, they appear to be a common failure point.

Also pulled the plywood patch off the broken window and dropped it off at the glass shop. They can cut it but have to send it off to get tempered. That will take 2 weeks. So we repatched it

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You need to talk to another glass shop. I bought and sold all types of glass for years. Shop cam simply order a temp unit and have it in 2-3 days.

 

[NIsaacs]

I would guess the load will be about 11k.

Nailed that Note the drive/trailer axles are backwards.

Had a good trip, no issues at all. Fuel mileage empty was 20.46, loaded 10.06.

 

[Topzide]

@NIsaacs, Great mod on the chain hangers to fit trailer!

Looks like it was a nice and stable load to trail home! Weigh ticket sure made the ride home nice! Not bad on fuel with height and weight of the load. Glad you got the new "toys" home.

 

[NIsaacs]

Getting a start on refurbishing the flat bed. This trailer is a well built unit, maybe the best I have/have had. The sun has destroyed several marker lights, so I will replace them while the deck is off, easy to access wire, etc.

Some Monday morning welder had a hangover and installed several of the frame/crossmember gussets backwards. They used diamond plate. Even hungover, why would a welder, by profession, do that? Then hacked up the rear crossmember (top and bottom) for tail light clearance. A smaller tail light or bigger cross member comes to mind.

I am also not a fan of open channel outer rail. Stake pockets, pipe spools and rub rail are way better for unlimited tie downs. (4) D-rings are not enough, plus they rarely are in the right location for the load. Trying to figure a way to add ramp assist springs, not looking good. Suckers are heavy, without. Still, dang fine trailer.

 

[Topzide]

@NIsaacs, Might you be able to do springs that are similar to what are used on landscape trailers? Where they use a garage spring, cables and pulleys. The other option would be a linkage bracket and a steering damper or shock for the underside of the trailer and ramp. Just throwing a couple ideas out to be tweaked to work if possible. Nice looking assembly, just a bit of touch up needed. I put some type of conduit for the wires in since deck is off. Just my personal preference on that one. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

 

[bcbender]

Trying to figure a way to add ramp assist springs, not looking good.

One way, a little work, would be to section the cross pivot tube and slide the assist spring on, then weld the tube back in... I'll try to remember to take a picture of my ramps tonight but they are just torsion springs on the pivot tube that lay under the ramp and against the back of the trailer

 

[NIsaacs]

@NIsaacs, I put some type of conduit for the wires in since deck is off. Just my personal preference on that one. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

Good call, I wasn't going to but you twisted my arm It looks good. I changed out the 2 center marker lights, they were smaller and noticeable. Went with oem type.