Here I am

Losing prime

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1/2 Band worn out, Drum damaged as well I have some questions.

That part in the first link certainly doesn't look like what you have in your pics.

View attachment 139097

There should be documentation if your truck was retrofitted. Why would it have both in-tank and a FASS?

It might be an aftermarket one. Geno's has the Vulcan non pump unit that looks similar. I am not sure if Vulcan makes the pump type anymore.

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That part in the first link certainly doesn't look like what you have in your pics.

View attachment 139097

There should be documentation if your truck was retrofitted. Why would it have both in-tank and a FASS?
Apparently, the one in the tank isn’t hooked up. The FASS would be a far better pump with 2 filters, and is wired in where an original pump would be. As for documentation, I bought this truck with 350,000 miles on it. I have no documentation.
 
I wonder if the non running in tank pump is causing any issues? You said it was fine with the VP so maybe nothing.
I don’t think the pump would have anything to do with it. It’s not hooked up and I’ve never used the lines that go to it. Hoping some of the work today helped. Find out tomorrow morning.
 
Nope.... mine looks quite similar to the aftermarket Vulcan pump from Geno's, as shown in the picture by NIsaacs. The pump itself it about the size of a pop can.

After working on the truck yesterday, I'm very happy with the way it runs, and the power. I've lost a little low end power, but the top end is much better than I had with the VP44, unless I turned on the Edge Comp. BUT.......... 40 degrees this morning, and it didn't start. Lots of white smoke, and it would hit occasionally. I am sure I could have kept trying and it would have started, but it was easier to just plug it in, and in an hour or so, I'm sure it would start. Still searching......
 
I advance the pump gear one tooth, which should be around 10-12 degrees advance. I have the pump set all the way retarded, which is about 3 degrees. I know guys running 2 teeth advance and no issues. Truck is running fantastic now. I just need to clear up the prime issue.
 
Do you have a place to park the truck with the nose facing downhill? The steeper, the better. If the engine starts easier parked this way overnight, then you know for sure that you have a loss of prime problem.

How much fuel is in the fuel tank?

- John
 
Fuel tank has 4” of fuel… a bit low. Gauge shows just under 1/4, and I got an actual measurement yesterday when I was checking fuel lines. I’ll be filling it today. I never thought about parking nose down, and yes, I have a good place to try that. I’ll try it tonight. Thanks for commenting!!
 
I agree on the timing being okay normally, but it does make it harder to start when it's colder. That's why pulling trucks and race trucks running crazy high timing need ether to start even when it's warm.
 
OK.... so now you have me thinking. I've done some reading on the timing. I just read that normal/factory setting is around 12 degrees advance on a 5.9. I moved one tooth, to make it a total of 22, minus the retard of the pump, which brings it under 20, UNTIL............. the KSB advances 4-7. I know the KSB is suppose to advance to make it start easier on a cold day, but could it be advancing too much for a hard start??? Maybe try unplugging it and see how it starts tomorrow morning?? Today is a 78 degree day in WV, so I'm sure it will start just fine today. Kinda' makes me think that it's not a prime issue. If it's losing prime, it should lose prime on a hot day OR a cold day. On my last truck, 12 valve in a F350, I didn't use the KSB. Same non intercooled pump that I'm using now. Sure is making my head hurt.
 
You may be on to something there...,

Another thought. I don't think your grid heaters are operational since are not using the ECM. If not, you could temporarily rig a jumper to activate the grid heaters and then see how the engine starts when cold.

- John
 
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A momentary push button, even an old starter switch that mounts in the floor, would be good for the grid heater.

You'll get it. Any time you go to changing things it's a challenge. You'd think it wouldn't be a big deal to put a '95 12-valve in a '98.5 truck, but it probably would have been easier to put it in a Ford....
 
I’ve done some swaps before, but this was a 24 valve that got a VE. Shouldn’t be that difficult, but it’s kicking my butt. Wouldn’t be so bad if I had another daily driver, but my other car is a 1953 Chevy built Pro Street. No heat/defroster, and no wipers. Kinda dangerous on wet pavement.
 
You may be on to something there...,

Another thought. I don't think your grid heaters are operational since are not using the ECM. If not, you could temporarily rig a jumper to activate the grid heaters and then see how the engine starts when cold.

- John
The grid heaters should be working, although I do plan on checking them. I have the ECM installed, so all my gauges work. That should take care of the grid heater. On the F350 I had with the Cummins, I used a push button under the dash to heat them up.

As for too much advance timing, the KSB should advance it to even further, but this afternoon, I unplugged the KSB and the truck started, but chugged and blew white smoke. I had to plug it back in, just to get it running good.
I have the truck parked on a very steep bank off my driveway. Probably 45 degrees. We’ll see if it starts tomorrow morning. Thanks!!
 
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