2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Maxx Sway Bar Links Installed - Question

[Joe Mc]

Just got and installed the front Maxx sway bar links - nice pieces. The front feels like it sticks more in curves at speed than w/worn out stock ones. Looking into getting the rears, but a few questions before I proceed.



Questions:

1-The stock front sway bar to frame bushings are spent and the brackets are rusty between the bracket and bushing. I took knocked the rust out, now when fully tightened the sway bar can be slid within the bushings. Who makes grease-able (orange) front sway bar bushings with new brackets for our trucks?

2-I noticed the right side end of the sway bar (where it mounts to the new link) was a bit higher and cocked a bit. In other words, when the links were aligned and fastened to the axle as I lowered the sway bar onto the links I checked both sides for alignment before installing the top bushing, washer and nut on either side - the left side sway bar end hole was almost perfectly lined up with the bushing and the right side was about 3/8" higher and cocked. I'm pretty sure the truck was in a right front hit before I bought and and possibly the sway bar was tweaked in the wreck. The stock bushing on this side was worn so badly it was split on the top. Can I straighten the sway bar right side with a hot wrench and a bit of finesse without hurting the sway bar?

3-Since I'm looking to replace the rear sway bar links I'm sure the bushings and brackets are in the same shape as the front were. Who makes grease-able (orange) rear sway bar bushings with the brackets for our trucks?



Please provide links for the sway bar mount/bushings if possible.



Thanks,



Joe Mc

 

[Hammer]

Joe...

I used the Energy Suspension Sway Bar bushings and I do not remember the number off hand. They are common and easy to find and most speed shops or four wheel drive shops can get them.



Both of my Maxx Links aligned up perfectly with the new sway bar bushings. I have had them on now for about a year and had no issues. Here is the thread I did about them and I will look and see if I can find the bill and part number for the sway bar bushings... ... . Andy



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ps-tdr-members/207763-maxx-links-install.html

 

[Joe Mc]

Hey Andy,



Hope you are well. Thanks for the reply. Hope to see you @ the Brawl - trying to muster up a few other local guys before I make definite plans.



I've looked at Jegs and Summit whom both have the grease-able sway bar bushings and brackets. I guess the thing I'm uncertain of is the dia of the sway bar? Both sites list them at 32 mm, that's for 1500, 2500 and 3500 trucks and they only list them for the front, not listing for the rears. I guess my best bet would be to purchase the rear Maxx links, measure dia for both front and rear bars and the distance between mounting holes and just go for in hopes that I hit the right parts.



Just real interesting to me that Maxx doesn't have the sway bar bushings to go along with the links - would certainly make it easier for us and more profitable for them? ? ?



If anyone out there has replaced front and rear sway bar bushings and has the part number/manufacturer I'd appreciate if they could share with me.



Also, see above question # 2 - can I re-bend the sway bar so the right side re-aligns with the right link without hurting it. I guess I can just go for this too and if it hurts it buy another ? ? ? Just hate to do it that way.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

double check and measure your bar, get a micrometer. or stop at a parts store and have them measure or borrow the tool. this is the part number I used for energy suspension greasables that are 32mm part # 5. 5126R energy suspension makes replacement bushings for the rear. but I would think the maxx rears would be a stronger replacement.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

by the way I just ordered Maxx links when I do them can I change them out with truck on the ground and not lifted. I thinking you can just the same as when I changed out my sway bar bushings?

 

[Joe Mc]

by the way I just ordered Maxx links when I do them can I change them out with truck on the ground and not lifted. I thinking you can just the same as when I changed out my sway bar bushings?

Yes with truck on the ground.

Remove the nuts from the top of the links, swing bar up out of the way, remove the nuts from the bottom of the link - whack a few times with a dead blow or other BFH till they pop. Install new lower part of links both sides, hand tighten nuts, then remove nuts, top bushings and washer from top of new link, lower bar onto new link, install new bushings, washers and hand tighten nuts. Align lower link mount so bushing is in the center then torque to 65#, then you may have to loosen the sway bar mounts to center the bar so the links are equally vertical on both sides, once all is aligned and bar mounts re-torqued (if you had to loosen), tighten the top nuts until the rubber squeezes to the same diameter of the washer - wash hands, drink beer and smile:-laf. Easy job.

 

[Joe Mc]

Just ordered Maxx links for the rear from Geno's and Energy Suspension sway-bar greaseable bushings for the front and rear via a local speed shop. Energy suspension part numbers for the front bar (32mm) is 95166 and the rear bar (24mm) is 95160. Each set of ES bushings is around $22. 00, of course the Maxx links for the rear are like $140.



I plan on tweaking the front sway-bar right side so it's level. Will report back after all goes in hopefully this weekend.

 

[HookMeUp]

I wouldn't think you could take a blue wrench to the sway bar as it would remove any temper that is in the bar and make that a weak point and possibly the bar would bend when in use. I installed the rear Maxx links on mine, what an inprovement! What I thought would be a 30 minute job turned out to be a 2 hour job. I had to remove the bar from the truck to get the old links off of the sway bar. Once I had the bar off I just place the ends on the vise and beat the old links out.

 

[Joe Mc]

I wouldn't think you could take a blue wrench to the sway bar as it would remove any temper that is in the bar and make that a weak point and possibly the bar would bend when in use. I installed the rear Maxx links on mine, what an inprovement! What I thought would be a 30 minute job turned out to be a 2 hour job. I had to remove the bar from the truck to get the old links off of the sway bar. Once I had the bar off I just place the ends on the vise and beat the old links out.

Then does anyone have suggestions on how to tweak the sway bar without the hot/blue wrench?



And, thanks for the tip on getting the rear links out.

 

[Joe Mc]

Wow!!!

OK Guys and Gals here's the final report on the front and rear sway bar Maxx links and Energy Suspension mount bushings. In brief WOW! Talk about bang for buck, it's like a new truck! Many of the characteristics I've become accustomed to/didn't realize were there before are gone! Such as: body lean/dive/roll when turning a curve at speed, instant roll when turning into a slow sharp turn, harsh feedback when going over washboard roads, slight wander over uneven pavement and general ride quality = used to be bouncy. The new components have provided an almost sports car handling with a smoothness I didn't know could exist in my old 180k+ truck. So much so this new quality has supported my decision to keep her till the end, and possibly locate and install one of the old classic Chrysler luxury car hood ornaments on my new "land yacht". :-laf



I highly recommend that anyone owning a truck with 80k or more miles perform an inspection of the stock components (that I replaced) on their trucks.



A bit of what led me to do the "out with the old and in with the high quality new".

About 3 weeks ago I was cleaning the brake dust off my aluminum wheels and noticed the top rubber bushing was totally split at left front sway bar link. I recalled seeing the Maxx links advertised in the Geno's Garage catalog and decided to give them a try. Upon receipt of the parts and the change out I noticed how loose the sway bar mount bushings were and decided to check the rears - eek! they were worse than the front! So, I went in search of replacements. Now, I'm like most of us here and look hard and long for better than stock components before I replace stock with stock, I found the Energy Suspension site, figured out which bushing kits I needed (for the front and rear sway bar mounts) and called a local Speed Equip Shop who diligently beat any on-line price I could find and within two days had my parts, not to mention no shipping charges as if I would have ordered on line. Additionally, since the Maxx links for the front were such high quality items and the rear links were only being held in place by the rubber dust covers I decided to order up some new rear links. Although I consider the Maxx links a tad pricey: front $89. 50 / rear $149. 50, I feel you get what you pay for, and with the quality of the Maxx products I expect many years and miles of service. Also, they are serviceable as replacement bushings (top and bottom) can now be obtained, unlike the stock units. I still wonder why Maxx hasn't developed sway bar mount bushings for the front and rear bars? If Maxx had these components available it surely would have made sense to go with all Maxx products. Maxx could even put together a complete kit for front & rear sway bars: grease-able mount bushings, and the already available link kits, this could all be accomplished for a reasonable price to we owners - like around $300. 00 - "Hint, Hint - are you listening Maxx"?



I'm going to cut and paste the below info on the "Products and Accessories/non engine and transmission" section - DONE.



I hope this is helpful to our other "Cummins, with a Dodge wrapped around it" owners.



Here's how the removal / installation went: Pretty straight forward with a few exceptions. Also, as always a good slathering of old rusty nuts and bolts with your favorite penetrating oil is in order.



I'll begin with the front.

Unbolt the bottom links from the axle, 2# dead blow hammer (or one BFH of choice) a few whacks at the bolt and "pop". Then, remove the bar mounts at the frame and remove from the chassis. ***Note: If you have a DSS type steering stabilizer / steering box sector shaft stabilizer this "remove the bar from the chassis" is a bit more challenging. The method I used: remove end links from bar, remove one side bar mount bracket reinstall bolts (so as not to allow the DSS, or like, to move) then remove the other side and reinstall bolts. Finagle the bar around so it can be slid out. What worked for me was: slide to the left as you turn the end down, twist it all the way to the front and slide it right, then as you turn it back slide forward, it was fun figuring this one out . . . Oh, don't forget to wire wheel and remove remnants of rubber and rust from the bar and mating surfaces. Installation is as described in the instructions contained with the Maxx kit. As for the bar mounts it's pretty straight forward and reverse of the removal wether or not you have the steering stabilizer or not. With the following exception, the after-market, in my case Energy Suspension bar mount/busing kit, bracket bolt holes didn't exactly line up. I threaded the front bolt 1/2 way into the hole, placed a big adjustable wrench on the sides of the mount on the rear and finessed alignment of the hole, threaded in the bolt and tightened.



Now for the rear.

Remove bolts at the top of the link. Sounds easy enough, but . . . once the nut is off on the left side the bolt can't be removed as the fuel tank prevents is "right there"! So, a reciprocating saw, a Milwaukee "Torch" blade and a pair of vise grips to hold the bolt from spinning as you cut, made quick work (about a minute) and the bolt was able to be pushed thru away from the tank. "Caution", remember our tanks are plastic and bolt needs to be cut right between the tank and frame. I put the vise grips on the bolt head to help prevent the blade from contacting the tank - and it actually worked!!! Then remove the bar brackets and bushings, slide the bar out of the chassis to the rear. Installation is just as with above, reverse of removal, of course minus the need for the reciprocating saw.



I think I pretty much covered everything?



In closing, two things:

1- I wish I would have done this years ago and

2- I wish Maxx would create a complete "kit" for front, rear, and then a combination front/rear kit for our trucks and offer a group purchase to we TDR Members.



"Hello Maxx, do you hear me/us??":-laf



Happy trails

 

[Arctic Taco]

You can get the urethane sway bar bushings -Energy Suspension, from LMC truck pretty reasonable, just put those on along with the links and the DSS steering stabilizer, getting there one piece at a time.