2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission My steering sucks...

[muchsnow]

This has been kicked around a few times, here are a some earlier threads:

More (Sloppy) Stearing box Questions



Converting '97 Steering Linkage to '98-'99 (Inverted-Y --> Inverted-T



It seems before they never found the right parts to work on the '00 to '02 trucks:

2001 steering conversion???

Jared

I have supplied a half way decent parts list on a previous post. the main thing for the 00-02 conversion is replacing the the tierod end at the pitman arm. For 00-02 you use the original end that was part of the stock Y configuration for those years (called passenger(right) inner tie rod end, sometimes labled as attaching to pitman arm). Same size sleeve (just use sleeve off old setup).

If your height is to high for proper draglink articulation, Skyjacker has replacement pitman arms for lifts. (00-02) DA302 (memory) is stock appearing pitman arm however, the tie rod end mounts from the bottom vise the top (usually labled for lifts from 2-5 inches).



Main issue for drivability is to make every attempt to keep draglink and trackbar as parallel possible.



Just info thrown out there, I have installed the retrofit in 2000/2001 4wd with and without leveling kits/replacement track bar trucks and it works fine.

 

[jwernert]

. . For 00-02 you use the original end that was part of the stock Y configuration for those years.

Is that the part number that you have listed at the bottom of the advanced auto parts list? TRW ES3527

 

[muchsnow]

Is that the part number that you have listed at the bottom of the advanced auto parts list? TRW ES3527

Yes (had to go back and look at it). 2000/2001/probably 2002, it can be checked through drilling down to the various years steering components on Advances website.

 

[TFabian]

One more question. Looking through the various threads on this, did you have any clearance problems with the differential or any other component when you switched to the T setup?



And to answer your previous question, on my 96, the drag link mounts from the top of the pitman arm.

 

[muchsnow]

One more question. Looking through the various threads on this, did you have any clearance problems with the differential or any other component when you switched to the T setup?



And to answer your previous question, on my 96, the drag link mounts from the top of the pitman arm.

No problems w/ clearances, just that you loose the oem stabilizer. Wish I could see a pic of your pitman arm setup... . it's a different pn then a 2000/2001. It may be just thicker at the tierod mount. When I was gathering the parts for 1998 for verification of fit is when I found that the stud was longer on the 98 tierod end (at pitman arm) then 2001 (same taper). Easy enough fix, just put a new 2001 tierod end on the draglink and bolted it up. The center link actually has small/slight bends at the ends which provide more clearance at the dif then a straight centerlink would.

 

[TFabian]

I'll take a couple of pics tonight when I get home.

 

[TFabian]

Muchsnow, here is a pic of the pitman arm to drag link connection on my 96 2500.



#ad

 

[muchsnow]

1998/1999 HD Steering Retrofit

Muchsnow, here is a pic of the pitman arm to drag link connection on my 96 2500.



#ad

The boss on the end of your pitman appears cross sectionally thicker (height)then the 2001, which probably means that the 1999 tierod end would probably work for you since it had about two threads of taper showing on my pitman arm. This is when you can sometimes find out if your parts guy has the patience to assist you in checking. The rest of the rig looks like it will work. OEM stabilizer (is that what that is at the pitman arm?) will have to go. Keep the centerlink unit. Don't re-install until after alignment, steering box lash check and steering wheel center fine tune. That way you're not working against it at any time. Bench toe in should be done before draglink connected to pitman arm. Tape measure from treadlug to treadlug across bottom of lower control arms aft of the front tires and then corresponding measurement at front of tires, eyeball/recenter tires as required, you can easily get it down to a eighth of an inch. Once centered I just adjust the sleeve on the draglink w/the steering wheel (tied) centered until the taper drops into the pitman arm. Since you have near a decade on your truck, I would get the new sleeve for the draglink. Its just alot easier to lube everything up w/chain and cable lube, thread everything together all the way to clear threads, then be able to adjust it with one hand. Pics (if I can get them up) show closer-ups/clearances.

 

[muchsnow]

comparison

Similar shot comparison.

 

[TFabian]

I ordered all of the parts tonight, including the sleeves for the drag link and center link. The top stablizer on the drag link is the stock one. The other one was the one that came out in a service bulletin from Dodge. I am going to try to reuse that one. Thanks for the additional info on the install.

 

[muchsnow]

I ordered all of the parts tonight, including the sleeves for the drag link and center link. The top stablizer on the drag link is the stock one. The other one was the one that came out in a service bulletin from Dodge. I am going to try to reuse that one. Thanks for the additional info on the install.

Waay cool if it all goes together without a hitch, wait til you drive it afterwards. Then you'll realize just how much DC has conditioned you to accomodate that rube goldberg, erector set, would work better if a slant six was sitting over it, steering bag of snakes, that you had under there.



You get the correct combination specific to your truck and it works, be sure to post the info please.





Have a good one.

 

[TFabian]

I'll post up a report once I get everything installed. I am hoping all of the parts get here before the upcoming long weekend. I also ordered a PSC steering gearbox. Been through one rebuilt unit and on my second new unit. Both of the new units had excessive slop which can't be adjusted out without binding it.

 

[muchsnow]

I'll post up a report once I get everything installed. I am hoping all of the parts get here before the upcoming long weekend. I also ordered a PSC steering gearbox. Been through one rebuilt unit and on my second new unit. Both of the new units had excessive slop which can't be adjusted out without binding it.

I know what a pain the steering boxes can be, even getting a "good" "new" one.

I'd like to know who gets you a good one the first time you order it, every time.



I would have a hard time saying good things about AGR. . But, that's a different story... ... ... .



Make sure you get a variable ratio unit, just another way to make things better.

Air frames change... ...

 

[KevinLewis]

Could we get a ruff idea of a price.

 

[jjohn]

I started the process also, Ordered the DT track Bar today.

muchsnow and others,

Thanks for info to get started; I decided to start with the DT Track bar and ordered it today. I will probably order the steering parts this weekend. I still want to do a little more research on what tools I might need for pulling the tie ends or can you just tap them all out?



I can’t wait to get this done!

 

[muchsnow]

HD steering

muchsnow and others,

Thanks for info to get started; I decided to start with the DT Track bar and ordered it today. I will probably order the steering parts this weekend. I still want to do a little more research on what tools I might need for pulling the tie ends or can you just tap them all out?



I can’t wait to get this done!

There are screw type separators that don't damage seals out there. I've always used what is generic labled as a pickle fork (which usually mangle the seals). Here's an example's of kit's, even though you can find them pretty cheap as single items.



http://www.mytoolstore.com/wilmar/wtech05.html

http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/asthan14.html#7864

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdsusp02.html#2288

http://www.mytoolstore.com/oldforge/olf01.html#1995

http://www.mytoolstore.com/oldforge/olf02.html#2544

http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html

http://www.mytoolstore.com/tolindex.html#t



Just make sure that you use an alignment shop that will get the axle centered back under the truck. I believe it's part of thrust angle alignment.



DT track bars rule (full adjustability)

 

[muchsnow]

HD Steering

I'll post up a report once I get everything installed. I am hoping all of the parts get here before the upcoming long weekend. I also ordered a PSC steering gearbox. Been through one rebuilt unit and on my second new unit. Both of the new units had excessive slop which can't be adjusted out without binding it.

If you get the steering before the box it's easy to install the box later because you can R/I the box w/o removing the t/r from the pitman arm. Just drop the stabilizer bar and pitman arm and swing it out of the way. This all being done w/ vehicle on jacks of course. duh... .

 

[jjohn]

DT Track Bar

DT Track Bar showed up today. Install time for me was 3 hours (6-9pm). Not a bad job to do. I still need to drill a hole and reattach the brake line due to the puppy running off with the bolt… found it after I had a shower so it will have to wait until Friday.



I didn’t think my old track bar was to bad "doing the turn the wheel and watch the joint movement method". The new DT proved one thing… “I don’t know how to check a track bar” :-laf Very big improvement should have done it a long time ago.

 

[BroncoMarc]

I was at a buddy's house yesterday and he had a brochure for a 2005 Furd. It's steering setup was pretty sweet. Somehow they're running tie rod ends, but the drag link goes to the top of the knuckle, and the tie rod runs knuckle to knuckle on the bottom. Both links use the same hole on the passenger side knuckle. That seems like it would be a tighter setup.

 

[muchsnow]

HD Steering

I was at a buddy's house yesterday and he had a brochure for a 2005 Furd. It's steering setup was pretty sweet. Somehow they're running tie rod ends, but the drag link goes to the top of the knuckle, and the tie rod runs knuckle to knuckle on the bottom. Both links use the same hole on the passenger side knuckle. That seems like it would be a tighter setup.

It would be, T setup can't be beat. Long shallow angle required for draglink will always place the interconnect somewhere on the far passenger side (unless it's RH steering, does Dodge build RH Steer Rams for the Brit's?).



Actually the only setup's that would be better overall would be a rack and pinion or hydro-static setup directly incorporated into/onto the axle. I'm sure it could be made "never fail" but in the case of the hydraulic setup you'd have to deal with the Ralph Nadering crowd that would be freaking over the lack of mechanical linkage to the front wheels (but what if... ... ..... ?) I guess what's good for the jet fighter community, space program and heavy equipment folks will/would have to wade through the "traditional" "general" public fears and superstitions that still feel the tiller has to be attached to the rudder.



Yes, I realize there's R & D & implementation (tooling) costs there also,these usually get recouped during production/public acceptance.

Remember when a heater in a pickup was an option anybody? Tail-lights? Back-up lights? Seat belts? Rear bumper?

Remember how much air-conditioning options used to cost? (pretty much near standard now).

How much market did DC loose when they quit producing a crew cab pickup?

I've talked to folks that would have bought a Cummins Van if offered (I think it would have been a hot item w/ a RAM p/u front clip).



I just feel that some of the simplest things could/can be good America first ideas. Rear wheel steering is a good start (GM), especially if used for a good multipurpose utility (4WD) vehicle (not H2 or the Yuppie shopping cart model lines), I hope we keep going in that kind of direction on the right vehicles for the right jobs/people.







Enough of the soap box... ... . no intent to offend... ...



have a good day folks and Happy Holidays.