Dodge ram steering upgrade
Hey folks, I haven't been around for a bit but one thing's for sure, I have now completed sufficient active duty military service for military retirement (essentially means I've done my 20+). Now I just need to find an occupation that will keep the veterinary bills, roof over my head, toys in the driveway requirements in check. Hopefully I can find something that equates or parallels to my ability to tear apart and reassemble H-60 helicopters (and P-3's, C-130's, F'Nay-18's, Dodge trucks, near any GM product..... ) to an improved (fixed) configuration. Just always had a knack for that sort of thing... .....
Previously I had posted that I had noted a potential for tie-rod contact with the wheel rim on lock to lock steering after retrofitting to the T-type configuration. So I'll see if I can get a usable picture here. What I did was create a bumper with a piece of heavy duty rubber and attached it to the knuckle after tapping an existing hole in the casting. Im not really sure if I still have the problem after I spent considerable time re-centering the front axle under the truck (alot of that was trying to find good repeatable reference points) and getting the steering box centering fine tuned.
let's try the pictures..... (here's where they're located
http://home. bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=331&folderid=201115&groupid=264096&folderview=thumbs&ck=
This is the steering stop... was quick and simple.....
#ad
Gotta see if it works.....
Another issue was contact with the inner rim wheel weights and the tie-rod ends.
This I have corrected by removing all wheel weights on installation of tire balance beads from
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/ , balance beads have been around for a long time because I can remember breaking truck tires years ago and wondering what the mess was in the tires (just some secret few knew about and could be prone to corrosion). What's nice about inovative's kits is that if you have air you can install these at home and the beads are a very static cling-ey product made of a heavy form of ceramic (probably bizmuth) and I'm telling you without too much hype, there are some "significant" improvements in the ride and tire wear department now, without major wallet balance issues. This is a product I recommend and feel it's worth you folks checking on at their web site.
Couple of other pics...
all rims are stripped of all weights and real easy to clean now.....
Tread wear is good and flat, no chop, feather, or pattering noise going down the road... .....
Last pic is the kit which I ordered for a Dodge dually just to get everything required plus "extra"... ...
#ad
#ad
Just like any suspension item, this is not a cure for worn parts or other engineering shortfalls.
Oh yea, I've tried Centramatic's and found they just don't fit right on the 2001 2500's w/ alloy rims without spacers (nope, nada, not do'n it) and they're waiting in a box in my garage for me to return them.
Another interesting product that some may feel requires consideration is the active driveshaft balancers provided by Balancemasters at
http://www.balancemasters.com/driveshaft.html
I've installed one of their units on my rear shaft and have not noted any increased vibration or buzz in the shifter, seems to be better by touch at the shifter, could be mental, just don't have the equipment to verify. Anybody else tried them?
Enough for now, hopefully haven't confused anyone worse then myself.
Have a good one...
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Should be a heck of a ride once I get the beads in and get those meats balanced!
I probably won't replace all the parts for the t-conversion yet- since I replaced all the y parts a few years ago, with the exception of the inner draglink end that connects to the pitman arm. I have a new Moog part on the way, since it has shown some wear lately. Did it look like this stock style 96 rod will work with the 99 t-style drag link? Are they the same diameter and thread count? I'd like to not have to spend the money again if I can help it... The part I ordered is
