New engine coming from Dodge.

[Weatherman1964]

I bought a used 2007. 5 3500 SRW long bed from a dealer in Texas a few months back. It had 89k miles on it. I was impressed by the towing ability right off the bat. I use it to pull my 40ft toy hauler and made a trip to Bristol TN for the spring race, very impressed with the deceleration abilities when towing although a bit jerky at times like it's too quick with the exhaust brake in 3rd gear.

Anyways, I'm coming down Black Mountain on I-40 in NC and the truck downshifted real hard on a decent and looked to me like it over-reved up to about 3300-3400. Then the check engine light comes on and at my next stop it shows a P2002 and a P2262 and I here a ticking noise that wasn't there before. So I arrive in Hickory and set up camp, made an appointment at the dealer. I drove around town a bit and it seemed fine, just made that ticking... and the codes cleared before I got it to the dealer.

The tech checked injectors and the noise stayed in cylinder 5 so he investigated further and found a hole in piston 5. Ordered the brand new engine yesterday morning. At 97,500 miles, i'm getting a brand new Cummins. I haven't asked anyone why this happened but I assume an injector went bad and was shooting a stream instead of spraying. Might be because of a filter with too high a micron rating. I'll make sure I get the good filter with this one. I assume the new engine will have the newer style filter housing and filter.

 

[HBarlow]

Wow! That's a bad luck story with a VERY happy ending. It couldn't get any better than that! A free new engine at just under 100k miles is a heck of a deal.

I doubt it was caused by your fuel filter. HPCR injectors can be fragile. I've had very good luck with them personally, 230,000 troublefree miles on an '06 and 80k on my current '08 C&C but apparently some injectors do stick open and fail under normal operation and without modifications.

Congratulations on your good luck and thanks for reporting it.

 

[Grizzly]

I'm totally surprised that the dealer is going to install a new engine, especially with 97K miles on the old engine. Wouldn't it be cheaper to fix the existing engine?

 

[HBarlow]

I'm totally surprised that the dealer is going to install a new engine, especially with 97K miles on the old engine. Wouldn't it be cheaper to fix the existing engine?

I'm surprised also and I wonder if the dealer doing this repair is certain where they stand with Chrysler/Dodge regarding warranty repairs. If only one piston is holed it would be considerably cheaper to pay for tear down, one new injector, one new piston and rings, one new head gasket, miscellaneous small gaskets and fluids plus labor to R&R.

Perhaps the tech has determined that the cylinder wall is badly scored, the cylinder head damaged, etc.

Or maybe Cummins wants this engine back to tear it down and examine it under almost laboratory conditions to determine why it failed and ensure they take steps to prevent further occurrences.

Perhaps one of the experienced Dodge dealer techs who works on Cummins engines will contribute to this thread. If I was the dealer principal or general manager I would be very worried about a charge back on a $16000 to $18000 warranty repair.

 

[sag2]

Most techs today look at you like you have three heads if you suggest actually repairing something. Your right Harvey, all it needs is a piston and maybe a sleeve. The new engine they are installing most likely has at least one sleeve installed. It is also acceptable to overbore one size. All the parts are available from Dodge, and have been for years. Trouble is there aren't too may technicians, just parts changers. I'm surprised Dodge has not forced the repair vs replace, but so far either method is acceptable for warranty repairs. If I was the technician, I would want the rebuild because I would make the additional labor instead of the parts guy making a 40% mark up on a $6-7k engine. And all he has to do is bring it out from parts to the shop on the pallet jack. Some guys aren't that bright or they just don't like to work. Or maybe the parts manager is making the decision, and he is the bright one!!!

 

[Weatherman1964]

I have not been able to speak to the technician to find out why the decision was made to install a new engine. He did say that with the soot in the tailpipe and P2262 code I was automatically getting a new DPF and turbo. I don't know how hard it is to get aluminum pieces out of the block, but wouldn't that require a complete teardown and flush the block out? I'll call over there and see if I can't get some more information.

What I'm afraid of is taking a brand new engine and hooking 15k lbs. to it and going out and pull some mountains, to get home. I'd like to give it some break in time.

 

[Weatherman1964]

Called and got the low down from the tech. Cylinder #5 had a severely scored wall and was not repairable. I am getting a short block, not a whole engine.

 

[Regcabguy]

That's what I got when my infamous #53 block cracked@ 18,000 miles on my '98. 5. Supposedly they did a valve job before reassembling it.

 

[Grizzly]

Called and got the low down from the tech. Cylinder #5 had a severely scored wall and was not repairable. I am getting a short block, not a whole engine.

Okay, now it makes sense.



george

 

[HBarlow]

... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .
What I'm afraid of is taking a brand new engine and hooking 15k lbs. to it and going out and pull some mountains, to get home. I'd like to give it some break in time.

Don't worry about that. The only break-in caution I've ever read or heard is what's in the Dodge owner's manuals. IIRC, that advice suggests not towing for the first 500 miles to allow the differential(s) to break-in.

You won't hurt the Cummins engine. Might be wise to keep an eye on engine coolant temp and check coolant and oil levels after the first 100 miles or so just to be cautious.

BTW, along with a new short block you'll need at least one new injector. It was probably the #5 injector that stuck open and trashed your engine.

Depending on how wealthy you feel, considering the fact that you are receiving a new Cummins reman shortblock at no cost to you, you might want to consider paying for five more new injectors to go with the one new one you're probably going to get at no charge.

A new reman short block should only include block, crankshaft, rods, bearings, pistons, camshaft, etc. You'll be reusing your cylinder head and all external parts.

 

[Weatherman1964]

Thanks for the advice on the 5 new injectors to go with the one new one I'm getting for free.

 

[PMould]

thumbs up for steve white motors. in hickory. is luke still there? GOOD GUY. good luck. PMOULD.

 

[Shadrach]

A new reman short block should only include block, crankshaft, rods, bearings, pistons, camshaft, etc. You'll be reusing your cylinder head and all external parts.

A short block does NOT includes the camshaft. Shadrach

 

[Weatherman1964]

Update: Steve White Motors had the truck for 3 weeks to r&r the motor. I have put 4000 miles on the truck since the new short block, mostly towing. Oil change required came on at 700 miles, I reset it and drove it to about 3500 miles and changed the oil at the dealer. Some 400 miles since the oil change and the oil change required is lit up again along with a CEL and a 2509 code and the ETC lightning bolt (electronic throttle control) light is on. Now what? I'm sick of this thing and I've already resorted to letting it sit for up to a month at a time because I can't stand driving a truck with constant lights and warnings.

 

[HBarlow]

I'm sorry to hear that your apparent happy ending story may be turning out sour.

My cab and chassis has been completely trouble free for 86k miles now. I had a spurious CEL almost two years ago but it cleared itself before I got it to my selling dealer 300 miles away and has never reoccurred.

 

[MMeier]

3 weeks...

... to R&R an engine ??? !!!!

 

[HBarlow]

One of the "parts changers" described in an earlier post.

Sag2 once posted here in TDR in response to my question that the consumer should ask if the dealer has a Level IV trained and certified Cummins tech. Level IV is the highest level of Cummins engine training and testing a Dodge dealer tech can complete and is a fair indication of his level of interest and motivation as well as knowledge and skill.

 

[Weatherman1964]

in response to MMeier: Yes 3 weeks. I've never been out to your area, but down NC way it seems everyone is driving a pickup and a fair amount of them are diesel. They only have one technician at that dealer who is certified on diesels from what I understood. Every diesel with a problem had to be looked at by the same tech, so he never got to spend much time on my truck.

It was a major inconvenience and expense for me. I had a buddy drive my other truck down from MI and we left NC on the 2nd of July pulling the 5'vr home. I then caught a ride with a friend who was headed south 3 weeks later. Even though the new short block didn't cost me anything, I sure bought some extra fuel to do another round trip.

 

[tempforce]

the over revving of the engine may of been a contributor to the engine failure. the new codes and fuel washing of the oil. sounds like the after injection cycle may be part of the problem along with the over revving engine.

the transmission down shifting at to high of a rpm, is controlled by the computer as well.

i would seriously consider having the computer software checked for recalls, upgrades. at least let the service tech, know about the short downshifting and extra fuel in the oil. they may have a service notice covering those issues.

 

[Tinman]

Did the engine really over rev. ? That's not to far past redline and decelerating meaning no fuel/boost. But with the exhaust brake on I guess that could cause increased pressure to the exhaust valve. I don't understand how that could have caused a holed piston (piston/valve contact maybe). I'm curious b/o most CR 5. 9s will go to 3500 if you just punch it to the floor while not in gear. No load, no boost and low fuel; doesn't seem to hurt anything. I've seen mine hit 3500 on wot run with the Smarty turned up. I don't like it and will do valve springs when it warms up again just to give me a measure of safety. I'm not convince it had anything to do with this failure. Correct me if I'm wrong.