Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Newbie questions- EGT's? Noise? Mods?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission temp @ 220???

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission New brakes question

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hey gang, new member here. My first diesel- Hope you can help. I've got an '01 3500, 5speed, 120k miles. Pilot bearing went out, so we put in a SBC Con OFE clutch. Only other mods are Stock airbox modified, Edge EZ, 4" exhaust and 2 gauge A-pillar pod with pyro and boost gauges. My questions are:

1. What EGT limits should I be watching for? (Pyro probe is currently mounted AFTER the turbo)

2. This truck hauls 2 fairly serious jeeps on a 9700lb trailer, so I'm pulling somewhere between 18 and 20,000lbs. I haven't had a chance to tow with the mods yet. Just got this round done. What other mods should I be considering? I'm mostly pulling in KS and OK, so the current mods may be close to enough power for most of the time. (?) I know an exhaust brake is a MUST for the yearly trip to Moab. What exhaust brake is best? I'm considering an aftermarket air filter set-up, but I live in very dusty conditions. Not sure how well all of them filter out dust.

3. I have a new noise or 2. One developed before the clutch or any other mods. Sounds like a small bullfrog or cicada steadily croaking :( and it does it when cruising arounrd 1400-1600 RPM's without a load on the engine. I can make it come or go with the throttle. Weird...

Also have a new noise after the clutch install. Kind of a squeaking rattle type noise. Mostly on decelleration in 3rd gear around 30 mph. Could this be clutch chatter? It's loud enough to hear from across a small parking lot.

I didn't have either noise when I bought this thing. Kinda driving me crazy!



I've had the truck since April and the lift pump went out the first month. Sounds like quite the regular problem with these things. I'd always heard about the legendary cummins reliability, but it's too bad the fuel delivery system doesn't seem to be as up to the task!

Thanks in advance for any help here!

Dirk
 
Dirk, you've got a good start. Temps post turbo run maybe 300* lower than pre turbo so I'd say 900* would be about as high as you should go. It would be a good idea to move the probe up to the manifold. Bigger injectors are a logical next step. Formula 1's mach series EDM's are the top of the line. I'm using the 1. 5's & they are super! The AFE Proguard 7 will filter as well as the stock paper filter & passes a lot more air. You'll get a lot of opinions on the brake issue. I think most of them work pretty darnd well. I'm very partial to my Banks Brake. I don't really know what to say about those noises.
 
Your noise sounds alot like one I had a while back. It turned out to be a u-joint. I couldnt find one that was loose so i drove around a while and then crawled uner the truck and one of them was a lot warmer than the others. Thats where i would start looking. I'd also have to say to move that pyro probe into the manifold. I have the edge box on my truck and can see temps around 1200 pre turbo and thats unloaded. I am a new member here too and this is my first post, hope it was of some help.
 
Since you already have your pyro post, I would leave it alone. Most on this site will recomend pre for a variety of reasons. The main thing is you have one. Learn to drive by it set post turbo and you should have no issues. I have three Cummins powered pickups, all have post Isspro guages. They red line at 1050, I stop at 1000 and will run that all day if needed. When most Diesel powered engines started using split entry turbos and manifolds, I felt that all 6-cylinders, post temp was better than 2or3 cylinder temp pre turbo. As long as your probe is no further than about 2" down stream of the turbo you are fine. As far as injectors go, I like non modified Bosch performance type. The 275's are a good step up for the 24-v for the money. I like my stock air box's on all my pickups, but they are not real high horse power units. The work fine for my use. What kind of trailer are you pulling? 9700 pounds empty is one heavy duty unit. I have one Pac brake and one BD brake, and like them both. If I had a preference, I would choose the BD, It works better at low rpm. The Pac is air opperated and the BD is vacume. If you do any towing, they are priceless and even nice empty. Good luck with your new truck, you have a good one :)





"IF IT AIN'T CUMMINS POWERED, IT AIN'T A TRUCK"





"NICK"
 
I would be more inclined to take a more conservative approach, especially due the the weights you are towing.



I'd get a BHAF (big honking air filter) from Napa. @$45 Search this forum for p/n. 4" exhaust system you already have. I would then do the boost elbow mod and increase boost to about 28lbs. on the 5 speed you can use a new boost elbo or22 shell? I have the automatic transmission, and purchased the wonderful $25 TST J-hook assembly. Shoudl work on soft or hard pipe wastegate actuator.



These 3 mods all decrease combustion temps and may give a nice increase in power and fuel mileage.



without additional boost, I would be very afraid to add more fuel via injectors with this heavy a load being towed.
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys. We kind of thought the u-joints may be suspect, so we're changing them and the carrier bearing out tomorrow. May not all need to be done, but I'll feel better towing that much weight.

The trailer is a 40ft tandem dual heavy hauler. It's a beast...

I did do the little elbow replacement that came with the Edge EZ. I'm assuming that's what you're talking about when you say boost elbow. (?) I am approaching 30lbs of boost now.

I'll consider the air filter upgrade. Will I need more fuel (pusher pump, etc, ?) to run the mach 1 or 1. 5 injectors? I've heard the Bosch 275's are pretty good too, and cheaper, just not sure which way to go there. I'll get to tow with it again next weekend after the clutch is broke in. That'll tell me a lot. Peter said to run a tank of fuel through it and then I should be good to go.

Any more info? Thanks for all the help. Great resource here!

Dirk
 
Welcome to the TDR. The B. H. A. F Cummins part number is AH 19037, Napa is 2790. I have an EZ with the boost elbow, towing is no problem. My 5er tips the scale at around 13k and a recent trip to Oregon I had no problems keeping my egt's in check with a post turbo probe. Never got above 950. The biggest thing I have noticed when towing is to use the correct gear, if you are lugging the motor or trying to pull the hill in the wrong gear the egt's will go up. I think the most I have seen is about 1000. You should know that bombing is a bug and you will love the truck more but your wallet may not be too happy.
 
I can't tell you about Exhaust brakes, other than the Pac I fondled seemed to be very well made.



If your not going crazy with the HP, there's no need for a high-flow intake. Let me rephrase-- a high-flow filter can do more harm than good if you don't need the extra airflow-- especially since you will br driving in the very fine dust that is the nemisis of oiled gauze filters. . For mild 275 injectors and an EZ, the OEM filter and intake system is more than adequate. Save your money.



Sorry I can't help you with the noises-- there's not enough for my feeble mind to go on:(



justin
 
The BHAF filter and the AFE will NOT do more harm than good, as they are the same micron filtration rating as the stock filter or fleetguard. Why I specifically left out the K&N filter and others.



With the EZ and towing a whopping 20,000 lbs, He's gonna need all the coolies he can get. New injectors with this tow load will probably put it into the danger zone. He at least does have the 4" exhaust, but more turbo air would be an immense help here.
 
I have the pac brake and am very happy with it. But I will be replacing it soon with a new remote mounted pac brake as I am going to a bigger turbo. You will probably want more power also so I would suggest that you start with a remote mount "just in case". I would also install a fuel pressure guage so you will know if you have any lift pump problems.
 
I'm eatin' all this up.

So, what's the story on the BHAF? Is it paper? Fit in the stock airbox? If so, why is it better than other paper filters?



I may try the AFE proguard7 though. Is the filter area on the AFE cone filter set-up much larger than the AFE drop-in? How 'bout a pre-filter on the AFE set-up? Anyone running that? I'm anxious to tow again soon, to see how the EGT's and power are. If it seems to be a problem, I may shoot for the freer flowing unit.



Oh, BTW- We pulled the driveline out today, and sure enough- there's a bad u-joint there. Good call Blake! Now, if the noise will only be gone when we re-assemble.



Next, she's gonna need some new shocks and tires. We'll see about more performance mods soon. I got out of the street car/performance thing about 5 years ago, and got fully hooked on the jeepin'/rock crawling thing.

(Getting too old to go fast. ) The new found power in the Dodge does seem to be sparking a little of the old flame though... :cool:

Any other info is greatly appreciated as well. I can talk all day about jeep suspension and other mods, but the diesel thing is all new to me.

Thanks!

Dirk
 
The B. H. A. F is a paper filter, if I remember correctly it is 10 1/2 in across and 10 1/2 in tall. You have to remove the stock air box and lay it on the fender well, one end is closed the other fits the inlet hose on the turbo. It has expanded steel around the paper to protect. Outerwears makes filter covers that fit it in a variety of colors as well to help keep the smaller stuff out. You can get water repellant or water proof.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top