No instrument lights!

[Ross]

I had to drive home with no interior lights whatsoever the other night. My tach has been wacky for a couple years... . I've had to get used to that. I didnt' want to pay for the new cluster. Then, over time, my dome lights have quit working for about 98% of the time. FInally, my instrument cluster backing lights went out the other night. I can do without a tach, but I've GOT to have a speedometer. With no dash lights, I can't see my speedo.



I checked the fuses, and #35 was blown. Replaced and it blew as soon as it made contact. I disconnected my pyro back light, since this is the only modification I've made to this circuit. Tried another fuse and "pop"! Could there be a dead short in the cluster itself?



Has anyone had a similar problem?

 

[SWithrow]

If there were a short in the cluster I think all would stop working, trace back the wire to you pyro and see if it might be shorted.

 

[Prairie Dog]

The more common failure of the cluster is cold solder joints which resulted in "opens", not shorts. If you or someone you know is a high quality solderer, they can reflow the joints on the cluster and fix that problem.

 

[seafish]

You must have an 2006 truck--
cluster problems are, unfortunately, MUCH more prevalent on them for some reason.
Bad solder joints, like Praire Dog said, is a common cause of failure, but IIRC, the main wiring harness going between the steering column and dash can also get "pinched" and shorted, particularly if you often use the steering column height adjustment.

 

[SWithrow]

The more common failure of the cluster is cold solder joints which resulted in "opens", not shorts. If you or someone you know is a high quality solderer, they can reflow the joints on the cluster and fix that problem.

So a open solder joint would cause a fuse to blow? I'm not familiar with the 06's thats why I ask. I have had issues with my cluster connectors in the past and this would be something I would be willing to try the next time those gremlins visit.

 

[Ross]

OK, this just got even weirder... Now it will take a fuse (doesn't blow when I put a good one in), but still no instrument lights. Also, now my cargo lamp stays on all the time, regardless of whether it's switched on. When I pull the fuse, the cargo light goes out. I pulled the fuse so I don't run my battery down due to the cargo light staying on all the time. What's going on?

 

[Blu-meanie]

I'd look into the possibility of the switch/rheostat unit for the shorts. They get very hot, especially if it isn't on full bright.

 

[SWithrow]

Just a few questions,

• Where did you connect the pyro? As stated by Blu-meanie the rheostat adjust how dim/bright the cluster lights get and you might have added to the current draw on the circuit. (I went with LED lights on the entire cluster, very low current if any)
• Did you trace back that wire?
• Are you getting power for illumination on your pyro? is it also intermittent?

Try re-seating the connector on the headlamp switch (use dielectric if you have a tube)

 

[Ross]

I disconnected the pyro illumination first thing, as I believed that it was the culprit, but no change to the problem. I have also lost my dome lamps as well.



I have:



No instrument cluster lights

No dome lamps

No HVAC control illumination

Cargo lamp stays on continuously (switch inoperative)

Fuse is good; have tried others just to make sure...



It may be the light switch/reostat... . I wonder how much Mopar wants for that little gem...

 

[SWithrow]

It may be the light switch/reostat... . I wonder how much Mopar wants for that little gem...

This is a idea of what it might cost, however my dealer charges 50-60% higher. I have ordered from this website in the past and have zero issues with them.

https://www.dodgeparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html

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[Prairie Dog]

Seems like the headlight switch is indeed the common denominator. .
You could unplug it and see if the cargo light goes off. If not then keep troubleshooting.

 

[Ross]

Update

I checked the headlight/rheostat switch and it seems to be ok; no change to the light issue. So... . Last night I disconnected both batteries and left the key on to drain all power from the ecm/pcm etc. This morning, I reconnected the batteries and started her up... Now I have instrument panel and HVAC illumination! Yay!..... BUT... . still no dome lights, and my stupid cargo light is still on, no matter what i do with the switch... . Weird.

 

[JFought]

the dome light/ and possible cargo light is likely a broken wire in the rear doors.

(pillar-to door: inside of the black rubber boot between them. )
many threads on broken wires. mine were and it was no dome light for me, others was the wire for the lock or windows. )
just give each wire a little tug
several threads on this.

 

[Ross]

Short-lived fix

Well, unhooking the batteries seemed to help this morning when I reconnected them... for about five minutes. It's back to the same old problems: No dash illumination, no HVAC illumination, no dome light, and constant cargo lamp.



I'll check for broken wires.