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Oil Pan Plugs

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Have worn out my oil pan plug and looking at

Geno's Garage. Does anyone have a rercommendation

on which one of the three models I might buy?
 
How about this one? Finger touch drain valve from Geno's.



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<font color=forestgreen>2000</font> DODGE <font color=forestgreen>RAM</font>, <font color=forestgreen>2500 HD</font>, 4x4 SLT, Reg. Cab, <font color=forestgreen>Forest Green</font>, Agate interior, Cummins ISB, Auto, Shift-on-the-Fly (241HD), 4. 10 LS, ABS, Trailer Tow Group, Camper Group, Michelin; DC: Fog Lights Kit, Tow Rings, Under Rail Bedliner, VentVisors, Splash Guards, Cold Weather Cover, & Mats.

<font color=forestgreen>After-market</font>: JRE 4" Exhaust, Van Aaken, Practical Solutions Diesel Products:High Idler, Heavy Duty Idler Pulley, Intake Heater System Saver & HD U-Bolt/Anchor Plate Kit, Gatorback Belt, Painless Wiring, K40, Viper w/AutoStart, Clarion 6 Disk CD w/remote, UnidenCB w/Francis antenna, Draw-Tite Activator II, Alpex 255TC2C Air Horns, Continental BedRails, Delo 400, HOWES, Liquid Glass.



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<font color=36648B>2001 PT Cruiser Limited Edition</font>
 
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Guarantee you the Fumoto valve pictured above keeps a bunch of old oil in the pan. On the first oil change on my truck, I let the oil drain overnight and then marked the dipstick when I filled with 11 quarts. For 45000 miles subsequent oil changes would reach this same mark - which was a quarter of an inch higher than "Full". On my first oil change with the Fumoto, 11 quarts brought the oil level a half quart higher than any previous oil change - and this happened after letting the ol drain overnight. I drained a half quart out the Fumoto and still have an oil level higher than any previous oil change. And just think of all the crid that's staying with the half quart that doesn't drain. Another aftermarket piece of junk IMHO!
 
I'm w/ BigDaddy on this one. I love the one touch valve. As far as oil remaining in the pan. There was a thread last fall about drilling some holes in the valve just above the sealing washer. I drilled 4 holes, 3/16" I think, 90* apart, maybe a 1/16" above the washer and it works great. At my first oil change after installing the valve, I removed it to see if any oil remained. Nada, every bit of oil that was going to come out, did. It's never leaked either. Great product IMO.

Tom
 
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I don't think anyone has mentioned the super plug. It has the magnet for catching crud. I like it alot. So far no crud on the magnet, I like that too.
 
The plug with the hose. Works great. The only time I use it is when I take a oil sample, but you can control the oil flow any way you want. I always take it with hot oil so that helps with the control. The oil is inside the hose so it never gets on you at all.

Good choice.

Preston:)
 
I have the heavy duty plug from Genos and it includes a HEAVY duty magnet. I dislike the Fumoto quick drain valves for the reason other members said, you CANT get all the oil out of the pan with them. I took the oil pan off a cheve engine with one and the oil pan still had oil in it and alot of sludge. Even drilling a few holes will not work as well as removing the plug all the way. Sediment collects in the bottom of the pan, you want to be sure to get it ALL out.

One last thing about taking oil samples from the drain plug, Bad idea. You will not get correct readings since you are taking a sample from a location where all your sediments are. What you get is higher then normal readings that may make your trucks oil appear to be worse then it really is. We have lube oil sampling valves on our $800,000 diesels and all the labs we deal with reccomend taking samples from a source that cant collect sediment (Like the filter housing) or even better, from the middle volume of the oil pan, like with a dipstick suction tube, but make sure you only use a dipstick tube once in order to avoid contamination.
 
My vote is for the Superplug. $20 if you mention you are a TDR member. I have had it in for two oil changes now and the most recent change I found a minute about of particles. Just enough to make the magnet have a slightly darker tint.



I agree that the quick drain valves leave sediment in the pan.



-Ryan
 
Tlippy and Cooker,



This is what I did to the Finger Touch drain plug from Geno's. All the oil drains out with this modification!



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This is the way the bottom of the oil pan is built. This is why you need the holes in order for all the oil to drain.



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I like the Femco/Geno's Garage EZ Drain, drain plug (uses the drain tube like Turbo Thom mentioned). I have had this on my Ram for several years now and it has worked great. I purchased this from Geno's Garage right after they released it for sale... these were the only option to the POS OE plug at that time. I have been watching as all the newer styles of drain plugs have surfaced on the market... so far I haven't seen one that I like better than the one I have. BTW, I had seen the Fumoto finger touch drain plug in the Summit Racing catalog however, I decided it wasn't for me (personal preference).



EMDDIESEL, I have been using a quality synthetic since 13. 2k mi. in my ISB and therefore do not have a sludge problem. After removing the plug for an inspection, I ran my little finger around the bottom inside of the oil pan and witnessed no sludge (as is the case with dino. engine oils). Additionally, the last time I changed injectors (and had the valve cover off), my valve train area was QUITE A BIT CLEANER than ANY other I'd seen to date EVEN THOUGH I had more miles on my engine than others I had previously witnessed (including near new Rams).



Tlippy, with my Amsoil Dual Remote bypass system I'm unable to fully drain the entire system anyway (unless I remove all the plumbing and let everything drain out). I knew this prior to its installation too. With the high quality synthetic I'm using coupled with the high degree of oil filtration I have, I'm not worried about oil related problems. Not much oil gets trapped in the hoses anyway... if it really bothered me I would completely drain the hoses at the oil change interval.



This is one of those topics where it's best to agree to disagree.
 
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