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Oil vaper bottle

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Anyone know if you are suppose to empty that oil vaper bottle in the front of the engine on the drivers side. If so how often. ??
I was changing oil today and noticed it there.

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DODGE Y2k 3500 4X4
Dark Garnet Red,SLT PLUS, loaded ,6 speed ,4. 10 rear end,leather heated power seats,power everything,C. D. player,trailer towing package,texas ranger C. B. radio,camper package,
line-x spray in bedliner,nerf bars, smoothy cup holder,step shields,billet aluminum dress up,12 volt heated electric stainless steel coffee cup, supper plug oil drain plug.
Not B. O. M. B. yet
 
Every oil change according to the owners manual.
I pulled and drained mine yesterday (2nd oil change @ 5500 miles) for the first time. I had a couple ounces of oil in it. From the amount of grunge on the engine and tie rod I thought it was full. What POS design! Was this Cummins or (my guess)DC? It's time to reroute that thing aft.

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ex Ford tech, now driving '01. 5 2500 4X4 QC LB ETH/DEE SLT 3. 54, Patriot Blue

[This message has been edited by 85CJ (edited 03-18-2001). ]
 
Has any body thought about setting up a puke tube evac system? This is a system that has an angled pipe that goes into the exhaust pipe and as exhaust moves past it it creates suction. There has to also be away to get air into the crankcase (vent cap). I think this would make for cleaner oil also by actually sucking out the vapors.
 
big wheel, do yourself and that Cummins a favor and remount or lose that breather bottle. It's current location is only good for a ton of oil on parts that you don't want oiled and a smell in the cab. If you do a search on the TDR under crankcase breather bottle you will find alot of useful info. Just remember to keep the the relocation short so that you don't end up with a clogged/ frozen line as you live in the colder climate. drawson, interesting idea, but wouldn't you get alot of smoke from the oil vapor mixing with the exhaust gas. Just wondering ?


Scott W.

White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro,boost and oil temp gauges,Edge EZ,Psychotty air,Bully Dog stage III injectors,ATS 3 piece manifold,HX40 turbo,4" BD exhaust,4" BD E-brake,McLeod clutch,Mallory 4150 lift pump,Mag-Hytec rear,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!! I love the smell of diesel in the morning, it reminds me of... . VICTORY !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A>
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089604" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>THE SAINTS</font></A>
 
Originally posted by Bigsaint:
wouldn't you get alot of smoke from the oil vapor mixing with the exhaust gas


And this would be bad because?... Oh, right, the EPA! #ad


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ex Ford tech, now driving '01. 5 2500 4X4 QC LB ETH/DEE SLT 3. 54, Patriot Blue
 
Big Saint I don't believe that you could tell the it was even on there. If I can work out the vent cap I'll have one on this summer. I'm tied of pressure washing the under side of my truck. I also think it will be better for the engine by sucking out the vapors.
 
Big Saint,

You mentioned about freezing up the rerouted tube? I plan to extend my tube several feet and go behind the engine along the frame rail. I too live in NJ and could use any good advice. Is there a risk of freezing an open ended tube?
 
Challenger-II, my original re route went all the way back to the front of the transmission. I placed a "L" shaped piece of PVC on the end to keep the vapors pointing downward. After speaking with Mike at A. W. D. , I decided that shorter is better in the cold climates. Mine is now only about 1 foot longer than stock, just enough to clear the fan, and pointing straight down, without the bottle. I just secured it at it's new location with a wire tie. I think that going all the way to the rear of your engine might be pushing your luck with the re-route. Mine was oozing a gray matter after only two months. If you make that re-route too long, your running the "risk" of plugging up that tube and blowing the seals in your engine. Try to keep it short and pointed straight down IMHO. If your not too far from Auto Wurks Diesel, you should stop by and talk to Mike when you have the time, great guy and full of diesel knowledge. Hope this helps.

Scott W.
 
Bigsaint, that was excellent advice from Mike at A. W. D. I extended by breather tube late last Summer (or Fall), monitoring it very closely for a while, discovering that when the ambient temps. dropped it was not such a good idea after all. I'm still searching for a better idea... meanwhile a (temporary) shorter version is loosely "wire tied" to the track bar, pointing down at the road.
 
John, I'm glad we(he) caught it before I had damaged the Cummins. Sounds like mine is in the same place, track bar, as yours. Seems to work okay, no fumes in the cab and the engine is staying clean and oil free. Did you read the post by drawson above, any ideas ?

Scott W.
 
Originally posted by John:
Bigsaint, that was excellent advice from Mike at A. W. D. I extended by breather tube late last Summer (or Fall), monitoring it very closely for a while, discovering that when the ambient temps. dropped it was not such a good idea after all. I'm still searching for a better idea... meanwhile a (temporary) shorter version is loosely "wire tied" to the track bar, pointing down at the road.

That's almost exactly what I did with mine except I routed it alongside the radiator hose, behind the washer bottle, then straight down over the stabilizer bar. I wanted to keep it away from the fan.

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01 2500 Sport, QC, LWB, Auto, 4. 10, 4x4, Camper Pkg, Tow Pkg, Geno's muffler eliminator pipe, rest is stock for now
 
I thought I had seen ads for an outfit that supplies a crankcase breather?? Understood it was a little expensive? Just a thought.

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1999 3500 quad cab, auto aero fendor trim and running boards,
bugflector II, K&N filter, Geno's monster tip
 
Have been watching the posts concerning extending the crankcase vent tube and the concern that the tube could plug in the colder climates, creating backpressure and blowing the engine seals.

I spent 15 years flying the bush in alaska and we solved that problem on our aircraft by slitting the vent tube with a razor blade. The slit only needs to be 3 or 4 inches long and located on the topside of the tube close to its origin point. The slit will not leak unless there is a blockage, then it will open up and allow the pressure to escape. Might be worth a try.
 
What is the proper procedure for emptying the breather bottle? It's nestled in there pretty tightly behind the radiator. I have about 13,000 miles so far and haven't really noticed that much of a problem at either of my oil changes, so I haven't emptied it.

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B I G O R A N G E AMBER-FIRE (BURNT ORANGE) / BRITE SILVER 2001(. 5), 2500, SLT, Q-CAB 4x4, SWB, AUTO, 3. 55, LSD, TOWING PACKAGE
ADD-ON'S: LINE-X, 1/4" STEEL LONGHORN HITCH COVER, WESTIN NERF BARS, YELLOW-TOP OPTIMAS
 
Lee H,

Pretty cool idea with the relief slit. Sounds like it would work if there was a clog. Any opposing view points. I have 8 feet of 3/4" hose I'm itching to put on but want to do it right. Dont want to blow things up!
 
Do all the 01 trucks have the bottle? Mine doesn't, it just has a short piece of hose, no bottle or anything on the end of it. It makes a little mess on the front of the engine but nothing terrible.

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2001 ETH/DEE white, reg. cab, 4x4, front end replacement, luverne nerf bars, no muffler
 
I too intend to move my catch bottle. I bought a length of 3/4 heater hose and plan on moving it to the inner fender well on the drivers side of the truck. Yes the inner fender is plastic but with the aid of zip ties it should be fine. I figure on doing it the next oil change. I will need to cut the OE hose and put a connection in it to join the two hoses and then go a foot or so and secure the bottle to the inner fender.
If it don't work then I to will be extending the hose down.
See Ya
Chris
 
Several of us added pill bottles to our older 12V Rams way back one a fellow TDR member came up with the bottle trick. Breather tube is at the very rear driverside of the engine on 12Vs. I added on to my 96 the first winter. Had several holes in the top shoulder of the bottle (just like the factory bottles). One late January night (very cold night) comming back from KS I stopped to take on some fuel in SD. I thought I smelled oil, popped the hood and sure enough oil all over top of the engine. For some reason I though to check breather bottle.

Frozen solid!

Oil pushed out of the dipstick. Real mess.

I just put up with a few oil drips now. Allot less mess then what the engine looked like.

jjw
ND
 
I relocated the infamous "pill box" this weekend. I used 4 feet of 3/4" id hose and 2 push in 90's and one 2"x7/16" bolt. I cut the original hose in the straight section below the 1/2 round top and pushed in a 90 turn securing it with tie wrap and ran the hose (sloping downward) to the back of the engine at the bell housing. There I bolted the "pill box", in a spare hole in the bell housing, with the small section of original hose protruding from the top and inserted the other 90 and tie wrapped it. So far it seems to work. Only time will tell.


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'01 2500 QC 155"WB, White, 4x4, ETH/DEE, 4. 10 LSD, SLT, All power, Trailer , Plow Prep and Camper Special Group, Keyless Entry,Flip-up Towing Mirrors, Lund Window Deflectors and Running Boards, Profile Plus Bug Shield, Century raised top cap (thanks to the TDR Classifieds).
 
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