On Board Air system

[User113]

Nice looking horns, Michael Overfield. I am considering something like that.

I have the same aluminum tank Michael Overfield is using, got mine on Amazon. I like it. I have the same compressor that mpaulson is using. It's a great compressor, too.

I tucked my compressor on a reinforced aluminum plate between the bed box and the bed fender on the passenger side. I don't know how to weld, so it's all riveted. I extended the air intake on a piece of ¾ inch hose with a crankcase breather vent filter going straight up, almost to the top bed rail. The intake has always been in dry air no matter how wet it is outside. I haven't tried fording any deep water yet, but it is pretty high off the ground. Looking at the filter itself, it seems the air up in that pocket is pretty clean, too, as the filter is dust free. Regardless of where you mount the compressor, that is a great place to pull air from.

Another thing I did was make sure I only use solid brass (can be plated) or stainless steel quick connects. Chrome plated regular Chinese steel ones get covered with rust to the point of being useless after a few years. I would like to find a rubber boot to slip over it to keep dust and dirt out, but so far it hasn't been a problem.

 

[DavidC]

Nice looking horns, Michael Overfield. I am considering something like that.

I have the same aluminum tank Michael Overfield is using, got mine on Amazon. I like it. I have the same compressor that mpaulson is using. It's a great compressor, too.

I tucked my compressor on a reinforced aluminum plate between the bed box and the bed fender on the passenger side. I don't know how to weld, so it's all riveted. I extended the air intake on a piece of ¾ inch hose with a crankcase breather vent filter going straight up, almost to the top bed rail. The intake has always been in dry air no matter how wet it is outside. I haven't tried fording any deep water yet, but it is pretty high off the ground. Looking at the filter itself, it seems the air up in that pocket is pretty clean, too, as the filter is dust free. Regardless of where you mount the compressor, that is a great place to pull air from.

Another thing I did was make sure I only use solid brass (can be plated) or stainless steel quick connects. Chrome plated regular Chinese steel ones get covered with rust to the point of being useless after a few years. I would like to find a rubber boot to slip over it to keep dust and dirt out, but so far it hasn't been a problem.

The boot can be found over here https://www.mcmaster.com/
I ordered some years ago to cover the disconnect, just measure the diameter and match it up.
https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber-caps/chemical-resistant-round-caps/

 

[User113]

Thanks, DavidC.

There are dust caps for hydraulic fittings and propane tanks galore; this McMaster catalog is a great find, as now I will be able to find caps for practically anything I want.

 

[MichaelOverfield]

Almost forgot, the inside. The blue pressures are for the air bags, left on top, right on bottom. The red pressures (top is regulated 100psi service, bottom is tank 165-200 psi). The inflate/deflate valves on the left, either side of the red and green led switches (it's where I could fit them). Under the blue pressure gauge is a green led switch for the DRLs I installed, the Red LED switch is to enable/disable the air horn solenoid (horn activates with the OEM horn). The other switch under red pressures (orange LED) is for the air compressor, and next to it an LED for compressor running indication (both off in this picture). The red and green rockers between the air valves are pre-existing, Green is for fuel transfer from aux tank to main tank, the red is for a pair of 120A relays to power a high amperage connector on the bumper that lets me fully power the RV, to include enough juice to run the rooftop AC via the inverter on the RV (This is something you can do with twin 220Amp alternators!)