Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Post on injector install how to?

[QWaller]

I am thinking of putting in some DDPs stage IIs. I don't know anything about changing them out. Anyone seen a how to and what is needed to DIY on these? Not sure if I need a special brush, washers, etc.

Thanks

 

[Bob4x4]

I am thinking of putting in some DDPs stage IIs. I don't know anything about changing them out. Anyone seen a how to and what is needed to DIY on these? Not sure if I need a special brush, washers, etc.

Thanks

You will need to buy/build a few special tools. 1st will be a puller to remove the injectors,then Snap=on has a nice sized brush to clean up the bore,then I use a modified push rod to hold q'tip for final cleaning. You should get all the seals,coppers etc from who ever you get the injectors from



Bob

 

[QWaller]

What does the puller look like?

 

[Bob4x4]

What does the puller look like?

you can make one with a tube the appropriate size and length and use a nut the size of the thread on the injector... ... ... . IRRC a dually lug nut will work

 

[RottenRon]

you can make one with a tube the appropriate size and length and use a nut the size of the thread on the injector... ... ... . IRRC a dually lug nut will work

I found this idea on the website somewhere and it worked great, use a 3/4 inch pipe close nipple and a lug nut. I didn't use a dually lug nut, I used a normal old lug nut. I'm not sure if they're different at all. The 3/4 inch pipe close nipple you can get at any hardware store. Works fantastic, injectors came out very easily.



Ron

 

[RottenRon]

I changed my injectors last weekend and wrote down a step by step procedure that I found in one of the TDR back issues. I don't remember what issue I copied it out of. I'm not at home right now, but if you can wait until Monday afternoon I'll post my blatantly plagiarized step by step instructions.



Also, for tools you'll need, check out my earlier post:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...dv-install-every-single-tool-you-ll-need.html





Ron

 

[QWaller]

Thanks for the replies. Can always count on members here. Ron, no rush on instructions but they would be greatly appreciated. Sounds like making sure the holes are clean is half the battle.

 

[RottenRon]

I can't take any credit for this, I ripped it out of an old issue of TDR (I think Joe Donnelly wrote it?)



-remove air intake, cover hole

-remove heater grid wires

-remove valve cover

-remove injector lines and hold down brackets

-remove fuel return lines and hold down brackets

-remove injector retaining nuts

-pull out injectors (a 3/4 pipe close nipple and a lug nut work incredibly)

-clean sealing surface at bottom of injector well

-keep cleaning...

-a bit of grease to hold sealing washer to injector

-anti seize on injector body near wire ring and indexing ball, not above where the nut will be, be sure there is anti seize on the thick wire around the body which the retaining nut rubs against, coat threads of the nut too

-install injector, tighten nut to 44 ft-lbs

-install rubber washer onto retaining nut using a small screwdriver

-install fuel return lines, tighten bolts to 7ft-lbs

-install injector lines, tighten pump end to 18-22 ft-lbs, leave lines 1/2 turn loose at injectors

-install valve cover

-install intake horn (18 ft-lbs on bolts)

-crank engine (20 seconds max, with 2 minute cooldown before cranking again) until fuel spits out each injector line

-tighten injector lines at injectors to 18-22 ft-lbs



That's it!



Ron

 

[QWaller]

Thanks, now to the printer.

 

[CTD12V]

QWaller, let us know how it went, and what results you get with the DDPIIs - EGTs, boost, any clutch issues, etc. (Oh, and mileage ) Do you have any other power mods done to your truck?

 

[QWaller]

I am still in the preparation phase. Getting my ducks in a row and have not purchased them yet. My truck only has a BHAF and a 10 plate that is pulled back to reduce clutch slippage. I am going to the DDPs for hopefully the smoother engine and better economy. A lot of people do seem to get better economy and I figure I would take the chance. At $4. 20 gallon it should take less than 20k miles to recoup cost IF I pick up 2MPGs. Less smoke sounds good also. Prob run the clutch for however long I can get by with it.