Project Farm & Shop

[Dan_69GTX]

I sand blasted the frame - down to bare metal. Used their degreaser, their metal prep, their paint, etc. Still had rust showing on the top of the frame after 1 year and some flaking of the top coat. The painted chassis did sit outside for about 6 months.

Not the best pic, but you can see on the front of the frame what I'm talking about.

 

[JR]

They don't Make it in aerosol cans but Chassis Saver is the only stuff I use. The stuff is simply incredible. I've got some stuff around here I painted 10+ years ago that sits out in the weather year round and is still holding up well.

https://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

 

[jghflys]

followed all the directions to the letter - metal ready, primer and top coat (chassis black)

I have used POR 15 Products extensively. From the sequence you stated, you did not follow directions. "Metal ready" is actually "Metal prep" and is not needed in most cases but gives extra protection and adhesion. NO PRIMER before chassis black. That is your problem. After chassis black or POR-15 if you want to top coat, you must use their Tie Coat primer. Also oil and grease must be removed.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

I have used POR 15 Products extensively. From the sequence you stated, you did not follow directions. ……..

Sorry, you are wrong too. I did follow the directions. That was 15 years ago, so maybe I did not use the correct exact language in this explanation,, but I did follow the exact directions.

There was no need to use the tie coat primer stuff because I never put anything but their product on top of itself. Again, don’t know the exact wording, because I don’t care, because I’ll never use it again, but I did follow the exact directions.

Since you have used extensively, have you had any problems?

I figured I probably had a bad batch of something. All of it was bought at the same time. But the fact they wouldn’t stand behind anything when I spent a whole Lotta money buying a whole bunch of their product does not bode well for me buying anything from them again.

 

[Timd32]

I got some sort of POR15 for my cab floor on my 2nd Gen, would have to look at the can have not used it.

But this exact version I have has a very poor UV rating from what I recall, it might now be in the sheet or on the can.

I got all those same bottles of prep and cleaner, I never used it yet. It was pricey could have just used some good old Rustoleum and been done.


https://por15.com/pages/faqs#:~:text=No, but POR-15 has,remain effective for many years.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Yea. I remember the guy I bought it from saying that. So, I bought their chassis black stuff(or whatever it was called) which he said would be UV resistant. No idea if they still have that stuff

I found out from the resto shop they use an etching primer then single stage urethane. If I remember correctly.

 

[Timd32]

I clicked back over the original video on this thread and pretty amazing on the fuel deal.

I just wonder. If they did not have the vents in the lids would kinda sealed fuel still spoil the same, and it would be nice to run the standard Stabil instead of the fuel conditioner with stabilizer.

We are forced to run the E10 stuff around here. E85 is not available so no worries there.

Either way I just got around to draining my generator and Snow blower and added 1QT of the Real Fuel stuff from Lowes to each, its just raw fuel no additives or ethanol.

I have still had a small 5hp chipper that's has been sitting 2yr, and my pressure washer 1yr, I run premium fuel and the normal red Stabil in all my tanks as per the instructions.

Just wonder what's in there now.....

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Just wonder what's in there now.....

You don’t want to know!

 

[Dan_69GTX]

JR thanks for the link to the paint you use. Looks like I can get it about 45 minutes away from here. Next time I’m down that way I’ll have to get some to try.

 

[JR]

No problem Dan. A few points to consider if you use it.....

Wear protection! The stuff does NOT come off your skin for weeks. My son ended up with 3 or 4 globs in his hair once helping me paint a trailer over summer break. 3 days before school started DW had to give him a buz cut once she cut the clumps out. Mamma bear was not happy with papa bear!
Also be very careful with how you store the paint. It is a moisture cure and sets up like concrete. If you get paint on the lid and the can you will DESTROY the can opening it up. I'm talking tearing the can type stuff. I double up on saran wrap to act as a barrier between lid and can. Occasionally its still not enough so be sure to have a spare can handy just in case. I've found mason jars work well. I apply some grease to the threads on the lid so nothing can stick to it and I still use the saran wrap as a barrier.
A small amount of xylene on top helps to keep the material in the can from setting up before you seal it up. Even the small amount of moisture from having the can open will start the cure process over time....

 

[Dan_69GTX]

With the Por 15 stuff and some other paint that cures hard, I would puncture Two holes in the bottom of the oil can, pour out what I wanted and then use screws to seal it.

Sounds like this might not work as well since the air in the can will start curing it.