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Pullin A 3rd Gen 6 Gear ????'S

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throwing 3 codes

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1) When do you know your man enough to pull in 4th gear instead of 3rd

2) Should I build traction bars, if so where do I mount on frame? (cant weld to frame?)

3) Should you tie front end down (if so, whats best way)

4) Limit rear suspension travel???



Any added advise will be accepted.
 
#2. Can't weld to frame ??

Do you mean you don't want to or that we can't weld to our 3rd gen frames per internet myth.

See TSB 13-003-01 dated 2/7/03 for guidelins on welding on our 3rd gen frames.

All the chassis mount aftermarket systems around here

[feeder beds/utility work beds/flat beds/etc prefere to weld their equipment brkts to the frame. Crawl under there and look at the frame as it is a welded assembly from one end to the other.

JIM
 
1) When do you know your man enough to pull in 4th gear instead of 3rd

2) Should I build traction bars, if so where do I mount on frame? (cant weld to frame?)

3) Should you tie front end down (if so, whats best way)

4) Limit rear suspension travel???



Any added advise will be accepted.



1. You should already be pulling in 4th at your power level (w/ a DD)... . maybe even 2nd hi.

2. Yeah build or buy, just get some. Yes you can weld to the frame

3. No need to tie, thats what hanging weight is for (build weight rack).

4. Yeah go with about 1" of susp. travel on the tougher tracks and block solid on the "loose" tracks.
 
1) When do you know your man enough to pull in 4th gear instead of 3rd



Any added advise will be accepted.



I used the gear before direct (3rd gear in my 5-spd). Jwilliams3 has pulled in 5th before, woah!



Ohh and make sure you take advantage of the full hieght of the hitch - 26inches from the ground
 
thanks Guys, all good advice from real world experience. I assume Ill just have to try it different ways? 4th gear Lo range and 4th gear hi range? So I can weld mounts to my frame for my traction bars? I will be going from rear end forward... but how far forward? Dont want them so short that it binds up the rear end but not so long they dont effectively work either. I was thinking about right at the T-case or there abouts. Wont have Southbend DD in untill early spring, just trying to get my list together to have stuff to do this fall and winter. (also saving for turbo-manifold set up, Will drop $4000 big ones easy this winter):{:{



Justin, How do you limit rear susp. travel, Build a removable block to go on top of rear end (between frame and axle tube I assume)? Use solid steel ends or do you pad with rubber Or some kinda buffer??? Thanks guys sorry so many questions I just want to do it right.
 
thanks Guys, all good advice from real world experience. I assume Ill just have to try it different ways? 4th gear Lo range and 4th gear hi range? So I can weld mounts to my frame for my traction bars? I will be going from rear end forward... but how far forward? Dont want them so short that it binds up the rear end but not so long they dont effectively work either. I was thinking about right at the T-case or there abouts. Wont have Southbend DD in untill early spring, just trying to get my list together to have stuff to do this fall and winter. (also saving for turbo-manifold set up, Will drop $4000 big ones easy this winter):{:{



Justin, How do you limit rear susp. travel, Build a removable block to go on top of rear end (between frame and axle tube I assume)? Use solid steel ends or do you pad with rubber Or some kinda buffer??? Thanks guys sorry so many questions I just want to do it right.



Forget about 4th gear hi range, it wont happen.

Removable block that bolts in where the factory rubber axle bump stops are.

Remove the factory rubber bump stops and it gives you a great place to bolt in suspension blocks.
 
Thanks dude, cant wait to try this stuff. Do you have a recomendation on where to attatch my traction bars to the frame? prob make brackets to weld to rear end then run up to just behind t-case unless you think different???



5-7' bars seem to work good. 5 foot bar should be at least 1. 5", 6'-7' should be at least 1. 75" od... stick with at least 1/4" wall.



Yeah weld the brackets to the frame bottom then to the axle bottom.

The frames are boxed so anywhere where you think appropriate according to the length of your bar is good.
 
thinking of 5. 13s... 98 12v 5speed 4th lo hopefully around 4000rpm with about 28 mph

wheel speed



That's just shy of 30mph on a 35" tire.



Use this calculator:



Gear Ratio Calc



Don't forget to divide your final MPH by your low range ratio if you're pulling low range. 2. 72 for most of us.





I pull a 6 speed in 5th at ~3200 rpm on 35's with 3. 73's. That all works out to about 32 mph.



-Scott
 
rpm x 60 /divided by trans gear ratio / divided by transfer ratio/divided by rear end ratio

multiply tire circumference/ divided by 5280=mph.

[ex] 4000x60/1. 67/2. 72/5. 13x8. 63ft/5280=16. 83 mph



4000rpm 3rd gear lo range 5. 13gears 33''tire... [33''tire x 3. 1416 divided by 12'']=8. 63ft



by the way what do you think of 4th lo 5. 13s in a 2. 6 truck at 4000rpm with 28mph of wheel speed

HOPEFULLY works out. gears and welded carriers on the way
 
im no expert either!!! appreciate info. 215 pump with full cut dvs,5000 gsk,will be bench tweaked to address retarder notches. timing to be determined,140hp ddp inj,regrind street cam, 60lb valve spring. [stock pistons],no torque plate,gutted afc. air dog 2 165gph. ats bigfoot manifold. stock inj lines. 2. 6 charger[67mm comp wheel/120 a/r exh housing ??? anything needing improvement??

suggestions on timing??ALL INFO APPRECIATED. sounds like SRadke has a hell of a truck

common rails are BAD ***. im just thinking p pumps= big rpm
 
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must be nice,we dont have a pull until the beginning of june. oh well,plenty of time to work on truck,i'll need it,by the way located in southeast ohio,weather still crappy!!!
 
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