Question for SBC users

[ROADWARRIOR]

My current clutch is a 13. 25" Con FE. My problem is that it feels like it is not quite releasing all the way. I can get it into all gears while stopped, but I can't speed shift it, especially going into third gear. It takes like 1 second between shifts before you can feel it slide into gear, I don't want to have to jam it in there. This is my 3rd SBC in 5 years and one thing I've noticed with all of them is the harder shifting and also I can feel the truck move in low range when shifting into 1st or reverse. Is this normal for these types of clutches? I've measured the slave travel distance and it is in spec. I've put in a new hydraulic system and it didn't help. I also made a 1/8" longer slave rod and this had minimal effects. Removing my floor mat has yielded the best results, but it isn't great. I find that to speed the shifts up, I have to increase the rpm to say 1200 or so and it slides in much easier. So, do I have synchro problems, a bent input shaft, or is this just the nature of the beast? FYI, my current clutch has the ball bearing pilot bearing and has under 5000 miles on it.



TIA,

Dan

 

[TJSHOTROD]

Call JandH in my sig

 

[Signal73]

My current clutch is a 13. 25" Con FE. My problem is that it feels like it is not quite releasing all the way. I can get it into all gears while stopped, but I can't speed shift it, especially going into third gear. It takes like 1 second between shifts before you can feel it slide into gear, I don't want to have to jam it in there. This is my 3rd SBC in 5 years and one thing I've noticed with all of them is the harder shifting and also I can feel the truck move in low range when shifting into 1st or reverse. Is this normal for these types of clutches? I've measured the slave travel distance and it is in spec. I've put in a new hydraulic system and it didn't help. I also made a 1/8" longer slave rod and this had minimal effects. Removing my floor mat has yielded the best results, but it isn't great. I find that to speed the shifts up, I have to increase the rpm to say 1200 or so and it slides in much easier. So, do I have synchro problems, a bent input shaft, or is this just the nature of the beast? FYI, my current clutch has the ball bearing pilot bearing and has under 5000 miles on it.



TIA,

Dan

I'll be following this thread for any answers, I find mine to be the same way (SBC confe) My old 12 1/4 OFE was much easier to shift. Im thinking its just more mass to move around so its slower, but would like to know if there is a solution!

 

[Beast2B]

Mine has been fairly stubborn since day one. I have gotten used to it, which means any kind of speed shifting is out the window!

 

[rubberneck]

The FE is a heavier disk than the one with the organic lining, so it does slow things a bit. Same thing only worse when going to twin disc. Basic physics, more weight = more inertia, I. E. syncros must work harder to equalize input shaft speed with the gear you are trying to grab.

 

[JasonCzerak]

The FE is a heavier disk than the one with the organic lining, so it does slow things a bit. Same thing only worse when going to twin disc. Basic physics, more weight = more inertia, I. E. syncros must work harder to equalize input shaft speed with the gear you are trying to grab.

SBC told me the DD is like 4 or 6#'s heavier then the SD FE when you factor in flywheel, clutches, and all that from both setups.



should be a factor that each disk in the DD is lighter due to being un-sprung, so there is prolly really comparable weight difference



All in all, most people can't tell the difference between a SD and a DD in shifting speed, they both slow down the same. That's what I was told from SBC.



Knowing that, I would of ponied up the extra $800 for a DD.

 

[J.Keith]

I've never had that problem with mine.

I can shift that thing as fast as I want and it always gets into gear. .

 

[Beast2B]

I've never had that problem with mine.

I can shift that thing as fast as I want and it always gets into gear. .

What lube do you use? How many miles? Tow a lot?

Also, is it the FE clutch?

I have changed fluid once at 20k miles. Now I have 63k. I used the factory lube, as I had a friend at a Chrysler dealership at the time so it only cost $7 a bottle!!

 

[JCleary]

I've heard if you burn the FE enough (like a long 3rd gear launch) it will warp the clutch disc enough that it will always contact the flywheel or pressure plate, even with the pedal fully depressed.



I can tell you that my OFE shifts waaaaaay quicker than my organic dd that I had. Much easier to get into gear (1st, 2nd, or reverse) at a stop, too. In fact, my OFE goes into gear easier than my stock clutch. I think the SBC flywheel with the bearings make a difference.



I really prefer a single disc.

 

[thekidfan]

I can tell you that my OFE shifts waaaaaay quicker than my organic dd that I had. Much easier to get into gear (1st, 2nd, or reverse) at a stop, too. In fact, my OFE goes into gear easier than my stock clutch. I think the SBC flywheel with the bearings make a difference.



I really prefer a single disc.

You wimp... ... ... ... ... .....

The last time I saw ya, you did a fine job rowin' through the gears

 

[JCleary]

You wimp... ... ... ... ... .....

The last time I saw ya, you did a fine job rowin' through the gears

Thanks Jeff



Too bad I sucked on the dyno the next day...



Hope to see you dominate a dyno with that new motor soon! Keep smokin'

 

[rubberneck]

SBC told me the DD is like 4 or 6#'s heavier then the SD FE when you factor in flywheel, clutches, and all that from both setups.



should be a factor that each disk in the DD is lighter due to being un-sprung, so there is prolly really comparable weight difference



All in all, most people can't tell the difference between a SD and a DD in shifting speed, they both slow down the same. That's what I was told from SBC.



Knowing that, I would of ponied up the extra $800 for a DD.

Cant answer for all, but i could tell a difference when i went twin disc. Not huge but you can definietly tell. No big deal to me and i can tell you i will never own a single disc again.

 

[BPonci]

So far i like my new SBC d/d clutch. I just got done converting my truck back to a 6 speed. Pedal is smooth and it only rattles a very small amount when the pedal is depressed. The shifting is smooth and nice to drive. Hopefully i wont have to take out my trans as often as the automatic.

 

[Todd T]

two things come to mind. your slave might be worn and bleeding down. but you would notice that more at stop signs and long periods with the pedal pushed in. second Peter has an adjustable clutch pedal rod that you can install to get more travel out of it.



As far as DD clutches I'vd had SBC's FE, OFE and now the DD each has bettered the last IMO. The pedal pressure is just over stock on the DD but engagement is smoother than the others and it doesnt get grabby when it gets some heat on it like my FE did.

 

[thekidfan]

So far i like my new SBC d/d clutch. I just got done converting my truck back to a 6 speed. Pedal is smooth and it only rattles a very small amount when the pedal is depressed. The shifting is smooth and nice to drive. Hopefully i wont have to take out my trans as often as the automatic.

Brad, may want to adjust your sig... ... . again



If your nice to it like I am to mine you will be happy for a long time

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

After it wears in, it may be better. Also I found Torco RTF (racing trans fluid) to help shifting a lot in the 6 speed.