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Rear Axle - I messed up

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Such a simple job yet I still managed to #@&%*@ it up.



Changed the fluids in both axles last night (first time). I was a little surprised to find a plastic gasket on the rear diff as I was expecting RTV. I wasn't 100% certain that the gasket was reusable so I put a thin layer of RTV on both sides and slapped her back together. Checked the service manual for torque values before I started. 40 N-m or 30 ft-lbs. By the time I got the cover off, had a heart attack over the amount of metal in the oil, pondered the gasket issue, etc. I managed to get the torque numbers turned around in my feeble brain. The very first bolt I tried to torque down snapped off before it hit 40 ft-lbs. Of course it had to be the one at the very bottom. I figured what the heck, the Mag Hytek unit doesn't have a bolt there so why should I. Actually I didn't have much choice as this is my only ride. I was kind of hoping the RTV might help keep it from leaking. Drove about 35 miles today and so far not a drop.



Now I'm wondering:

1) Are the plastic gaskets reusable?

2) Did I make a big mistake by using RTV?

3) What are the odds of my getting by until the next change with one bolt broken off?



BTW - the front axle went just fine, no visible metal in the oil and very little on the drain plug.



Thanks for your comments/suggestions... ..... Dale
 
The gasket is reuseable, and given that you are one bolt short on the bottom you probably did not make a bad choice with the RTV. The problem with the RTV is you may have to buy a new gasket next time you have it open and get that bolt out of there. I hope it holds out for you.



-Scott



P. S. What oil did you choose?
 
Dale,



As others have stated, I wouldn't worry too much. If it ain't leaking you're fine. If you're a perfectionist like me, though, I'd get a bolt extractor set and get that old bolt out and replaced at the next change.
 
bolt

They make reversible easy out drill bits,pull out one of the other bolts measure depth mark, With tape on bit so you do not drill to far. You have to be top dead center right in the middle of broken bolt [ VERY CRITICAL ]. You should be able to get the bolt out with the cover still on. Once you get about 3/4 of the way thru the bit should spin out the broken bolt out. If the bolt is 1/4 go with a 1/8 easy out and if that don"t get it move up to 3/16, you can always move up so don"t start to big.
 
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Sorry to hear. The same thing happened to me. Check out my thread in 3rd Generation Engines and Transmissions:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=86269



I got a lot of good advice and was successful in removing the broken bolt. The prices the dealers want for a new bolt are ridiculous. I got three prices: $4. 00 each, $1. 60 each, and $1. 20 each.



As stated by others, the real key is being sure to drill STRAIGHT and IN THE CENTER. I started by using a center punch, then drilling with a small bit for a guide hole. Using penetrating oil as I drilled (to keep the bolt from heating up and hardening), I then used an 1/8" left hand bit with the drill in reverse. Next, the next bit size up. I was hoping the bit would remove the bolt as they sometimes do with the left hand bit. No luck for me as I used lock-tite. Finally I used the bolt extractor - came right out



Good luck! As one member told me, you CAN do it!
 
Thank you all for your comments/support.



Scott - I used Castrol Syntec. No particular reason other then the fact that I went to three auto parts places before I found one that had sufficient quantity of lube for both axles and the Castrol was all the third place had.



TWest - I will definately be replacing the bolt at the next change. I had assumed that I'd need to use either a left hand bit and/or an ezout (never had much luck with them). Your suggestion about marking the bit for depth was great. For some reason it never occurs to me to plan ahead like that. Thanks!



Bruce - I didn't use locktite so am keeping my fingers crossed that a left hand bit might do the trick.
 
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