Attention: TDR Forum Junkies Hey Guys,
Heres some info not in the pamphlet for installing Velvet Ride shackles.
1) If you already have Roadmasters installed, the "J" bracket has to come off before the rear spring eye will go high enough above the top of the frame to get the top shackle bolt out.
2) Unload the spring tension on the Roadmasters using the long threaded rod at the rear of the spring. If you don't, the funny spherical washer will fly out so fast it ends up in another dimension
Yes, I was wearing my saftey glasses 
3) The shackle bolt head is a Torx T60, the nut is a 15/16", the hex end of the shackle bolt is a 7/16"
4) The FSM calls for 130 ft/lbs on the shackle bolts and nuts, but there's no way to tighten the top nut with a torque wrench if you follow the directions and set the truck on the wheels before tightening them. I was able to hold the end of the bolt with a 7/16" socket and tighten the nut with a 15/16" box wrench. The factory uses those screwy torque wrenches that holds the bolt and torques the nut at the same end of the bolt. I don't even wanna know how much those cost...
Was it worth the effort????
I think so. I do feel a small improvement, especially on the smaller bumps. It really is not hard to do if you follow the directions and squirt the nuts and bolts with Kroil before starting. Most of my BOMBs have been on the rear suspension so far- Bilstein shocks, Roadmasters, air bags and now Velvet Ride shackles. Added together the truck rides WAY better than the day I drove it home. Maybe now the wife will stop making those unhappy noises and expressions when riding in the truck empty
P. S. Mr Bob is great guy. I called him to ask for a replacement spherical washer for the Roadmasters and he remembered talking with me 1. 5 years ago when I placed the order
Heres some info not in the pamphlet for installing Velvet Ride shackles.
1) If you already have Roadmasters installed, the "J" bracket has to come off before the rear spring eye will go high enough above the top of the frame to get the top shackle bolt out.
2) Unload the spring tension on the Roadmasters using the long threaded rod at the rear of the spring. If you don't, the funny spherical washer will fly out so fast it ends up in another dimension
Yes, I was wearing my saftey glasses 3) The shackle bolt head is a Torx T60, the nut is a 15/16", the hex end of the shackle bolt is a 7/16"
4) The FSM calls for 130 ft/lbs on the shackle bolts and nuts, but there's no way to tighten the top nut with a torque wrench if you follow the directions and set the truck on the wheels before tightening them. I was able to hold the end of the bolt with a 7/16" socket and tighten the nut with a 15/16" box wrench. The factory uses those screwy torque wrenches that holds the bolt and torques the nut at the same end of the bolt. I don't even wanna know how much those cost...
Was it worth the effort????
I think so. I do feel a small improvement, especially on the smaller bumps. It really is not hard to do if you follow the directions and squirt the nuts and bolts with Kroil before starting. Most of my BOMBs have been on the rear suspension so far- Bilstein shocks, Roadmasters, air bags and now Velvet Ride shackles. Added together the truck rides WAY better than the day I drove it home. Maybe now the wife will stop making those unhappy noises and expressions when riding in the truck empty
P. S. Mr Bob is great guy. I called him to ask for a replacement spherical washer for the Roadmasters and he remembered talking with me 1. 5 years ago when I placed the order
