Shell Rotella T vs Shell Rotella synthetic

[Cummins12V98]

FRAM is a BAD choice! I guarantee they don't filter anywhere as good as the FleetGuard/Mopar filters do. I would NO WAY run one at 12-15K!

 

[EDankievitch]

There have been many threads on here over the years about FRAM filters failing and plugging up the piston cooling nozzles taking the engine out. Don't use them ebay them get your money back and contact GENO's for good filters.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

IF you google the info there is a shelf life on filters.

I’m sorry, I find this humorous.

 

[Learjet]

I’m sorry, I find this humorous.

you can risk your engine...but glue and other crap breaks down....Esp. sitting on the shelf for how long at Tractor Supply?

https://www.donaldson.com/en/semiconductor/support/datalibrary/072546.pdf

 

[tractorhauler]

With all that being said, I am sure I am way past my "use by date". Filters don't have expiration dates on them. Store them where it's dry and they will last a lifetime. I have never, ever had an engine failure due to a brand of filter. Wait, I've never had an engine failure. I know people that wash their hands before changing the oil. Their engines didn't last any longer than mine did. Enough said before I get in trouble and say something like how anal people are about only using one brand of DEF.
Mark

 

[Newsa]

IF you google the info there is a shelf life on filters.

They rust if they are not shrink wrapped in plastic

 

[tractorhauler]

That means they are not kept dry.

 

[Cummins12V98]

That means they are not kept dry.

Your definition of dry?

I had FleetGuard filters get surface rust on the end with the hole from setting inside a cabinet in my shop in NW WA. They did have the plastic wrapper.

 

[Tuesdak]

With all that being said, I am sure I am way past my "use by date". Filters don't have expiration dates on them. Store them where it's dry and they will last a lifetime. I have never, ever had an engine failure due to a brand of filter. Wait, I've never had an engine failure. I know people that wash their hands before changing the oil. Their engines didn't last any longer than mine did. Enough said before I get in trouble and say something like how anal people are about only using one brand of DEF.
Mark

At least you now know the risks. Most have a religious war over oil and IMO miss the more important factor of good filter(s) that can go the distance. I have ruined conventional engine oil to the point of piston scuffing and frankly it's hard to do with modern oil unless you are pushing things to the limit. Some filters simply won't go the distance past 3000 miles. I cut open my used oil filters to look for problems as well as making sure the filter was able to handle it. After cutting some open: a T-Shirt stuffed into the filter can would have done just as good as Mobil 1, Bosch, Purolator's Tearolator. From The TearOLator filters that are ONLY good for 3000 miles to high cost filters that are defective... It's easier to show a bad filter brand than problems with modern engine oil. The last recent Fram OCOD caused engine failure was on here in 2015. The truck needing an engine rebuild and the several months it took for The Fram Group to pay up...

There are a LOT of bad filter brands out there and FRAM's Orange Can Of Death is in the top 10. Maybe change the OCOD's out every 3000 miles.

 

[Newsa]

The humidity in the air can cause surface rust in a couple of years on a filter that isn't shrink wrapped in plastic and is made of an alloy that doesn't hold up well against oxidation in humid environments. Humidity and oxygen can also take their tool on cheap media and glue.

 

[LandShark]

I decided to use only synthetic back when I had my 2nd gen and did some cold (15f) starts where the engine would blow white smoke and rattle for a minute after starting. Cold starts were much smoother and without the white smoke and rattling after switching to synthetic. Also did a fair amount of driving in 110 degree temps, but don't have real evidence that synthetics were any better in those conditions.

Also changed the 2nd gen power steering fluid to synthetic and that totally stopped the whining at cold temps. That can only be good.

 

[Newsa]

At least you now know the risks. Most have a religious war over oil and IMO miss the more important factor of good filter(s) that can go the distance. .

Hence why I run both a full flow and a bypass filter. But I don't think all oils are equal. And there are studies showing the benefits of synthetics

 

[ZBrooks]

If the oil meets the Cummins spec CES20086, I'll run it. I picked up a 55 gallon drum of Purus 15w/40 for $8/gal. Donaldson or Fleetguard filters for me.

 

[gtwitch]

My thoughts only, but I will not risk my $18,000 Cummins engine for the difference of $10.00 for a Fleetguard (from Genos) over a Fr*** or any other discount filter and I have used Syn T6 for over 150 k miles since I went from AMZoil at about 80 K and nothing wrong with AMZOIL but it is easier to get T6 for me. Just last week picked up 4 gal of T6 at $19.66 /gal with a $5/gal rebate (so $15.00/gal) and I watch these things over the year and cash in on them for the next oil change. Have read more than a couple of articles on forums about Fram and Valvoline and Hastings filters over the years and this has me convinced! Mobile 1 had some issues with the euro light spec oils in the Mercedes and Fiat diesel engines and we have seen that TSB from both to switch to 5-40 SYN! I had a customer with a Sprinter I-5 lose an engine at 215 k miles because of the 0 wt euro spec Mobile 1 and Fram filter as was told to him by MB shop that replaced the engine. My thoughts and experiences only here!
gtwitch in wyoming

 

[Michaelsloft]

My thoughts only, but I will not risk my $18,000 Cummins engine for the difference of $10.00 for a Fleetguard (from Genos) over a Fr*** or any other discount filter and I have used Syn T6 for over 150 k miles since I went from AMZoil at about 80 K and nothing wrong with AMZOIL but it is easier to get T6 for me. Just last week picked up 4 gal of T6 at $19.66 /gal with a $5/gal rebate (so $15.00/gal) and I watch these things over the year and cash in on them for the next oil change. Have read more than a couple of articles on forums about Fram and Valvoline and Hastings filters over the years and this has me convinced! Mobile 1 had some issues with the euro light spec oils in the Mercedes and Fiat diesel engines and we have seen that TSB from both to switch to 5-40 SYN! I had a customer with a Sprinter I-5 lose an engine at 215 k miles because of the 0 wt euro spec Mobile 1 and Fram filter as was told to him by MB shop that replaced the engine. My thoughts and experiences only here!
gtwitch in wyoming

X2 ................I have been using Rotella T6 (swtiched from from Rotella 15W40 since 500 miles with first oil change) since I first saw it available on shelves around 2001-2002 and the Fleetguard Filters are exceptional. Have used a few Donaldson DBL7349 filters when I can find them without having to spend extra $ for shipping etc. Just makes sense to keep it simple and reliable for the long run.

 

[ColorWorks99]

Rotella 15w 40. Fleetguard oil and fuel filters. 2004.5 Ram 3500. SRW. 374,500 miles with original engine and injectors running stock air filter too. Original transmission. 99% stock truck. Never used synthetic engine oil. I do use it in my transmission. Still runs super strong. Even the paint looks decent for it's age and I live in Florida. If I could only convert it to a Mega Cab, I'd be set. LoL.

 

[bry1216]

If you are worried about oil quality, Blackstone 260-744-2380 - www.blackstone-labs.com - they will send you a sample bottle free. Your reports will tell you averages in your area, every statics you need to know including the most important request TBN. I will now mention a terrible word, my cousin has a 2002 Chevy Duramax and Blackstone has him to 11,000 miles oil changes and was able to spot his failing injector (major failure on Isuzu 6.6L Duramax) at 124,034 miles. Difference in Conventional and Synthetic oil is Heat Range, Viscosity and Price. Synthetic with higher heat range will allow for less damage if a race type bearing failed. Conventional oil will burn up and there will be no lubrication to other bearings thus more damage. Prime example of a gear transfer box failure.

 

[ARedmon]

I ran Mopar MaxPro 15w40 conventional in my 2005 RAM diesel exclusively. Never a problem, cold weather or not. I now have a 2014 RAM diesel and have been using Rotella T6 but only because the truck came factory-filled with Valvoline 5w40 synthetic and I chose to stick with syn. I don't see any problem with using 15w40 conventional though. I do NOT use Fram oil filters; only Mopar. A mechanic/technician at my local dealer a few years ago told me that they'd gotten a letter from RAM, telling them to warn RAM diesel owners against using Fram oil filters due to the fact that their backflow preventers were coming apart and getting into the system.

 

[Gumby79]

Even in a dry environment metal will Rust unprotected this is why the military ships their rifles can a thick gooey oily mess. Metal has a different thermal coefficient than air AKA it Heats and cools at a slower rate . so in thermal cycling it's colder than ambient air. Something that is colder than the ambient air will condense any moisture presents in the air even 1%humidity , a dry object that is cold will become wet in a dry environment. This is why the old time parts were wrapped in paper that was saturated with an oily substance or wax this protective rapper does not absorb moisture. The plastic is better in that it does not absorb or moisture causing rust any place it touches bare metal however it is worse than that it will not allow the moisture that is in trapped to be released. Unless the cellophane is airtight to approximately one bar of pressure it's the same as leaving it on an open shelf without the plastic. The only Advantage the paper framer box has is that it will not puddle and moisture.

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Question for the gentleman or lady that is cutting the filters
Does the filter have the bypass spring in the bottom that opens when the filter plugs?
On my 1st Gen filter head has a 9 PSI (per Cummins) differential bypass spring the failed
on me last Octoberthe flap of the valve was on the wrong side. Causing my oil cooler to split the seams dumping 2.5 of 3 gallons in 150 miles into my coolent.(a 12$ part took out 600$ worth of parts+ 1 week bending wrenches waiting on parts) The Silver Lining is I was in the middle of doing a block flush . 1/2 ga vinegar + 4.5ga water. Run 500mi. Hose till clear 3X 500mi ea,when I start with clear then I switch to distilled for 3 500mi cycles then fresh coolent. there wasn't any coolant in the system to turn into turkey s***. The flush drastically improve the quality/ quantity of heat coming from my heater. The inside of a block behind the oil cooler with spic& span clean look like it just came out of a parts washer no scaly nothing. Had to leave it open to the air for an extra 3 days waiting for the broken valve during which time the cylinder walls accumulated surface rust minimal but easily visible.

 

[tugboat1st]

Just FYI, I read in one of the tech articles in TDR that Fram oil filters were found to be responsible for a number of Cummins engine failures. It seems that some of the filter media was released into the lube system and plugged passages causing a loose of pressure and you know what that caused. Mopar and Fleetguard are the recommended filters from Cummins. I have stuck with Fleetguard myself. Cheap insurance.