Slide still not sliding.

[Ron Bissett]

Still not working like it should . Replaced the striped gears , put all the parts back on the frame , Replaced the slide control box ,checked the switch . Now the fuse blows as soon as I try to put it in the panel . I don't know how to trace for the short . The wires are all inside the frame and covered up with the sheet metal or in side the walls. I do not have a way to check the amps of the electric motor as the meter is rated to ten amps . I am thinking of putting the leads between the neg side of the battery to use battery direct and see how much it draws just to get the slide moving and if the amps go to more than eight ill let off . Any ideas welcome . Got the gear set for about eighty dollars and the control box for one hundred fifty five dollars . And I don't know if the box works or not . As I can only get the slide to move manually or direct from the battery by switching the red and black wires to change Pos to net , net to pos, seems to work fine . I don't know how the short came to be Or how to find it. Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville KY : This in on a 95 Newmar American Star 26 ft single Slide RK MOD

 

[slo-ryde]

Tracing shorted wiring is never fun. It sounds like you have the hot wire going to the motor shorted directly to the frame. I don't know much about how the slide is wired so everything is just a best guess. I would run a wire from the hot side of the fuse to the controller first, then from the controller down to the motor. I'm guessing the controller reverses the polarity going to the motor for slide in/slide out. Maybe the controller is burnt up?



One thing working in your favor is the problem is not intermittent and should be obvious when you find the bad wire.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Slide

Ron, if the slide will work when hooked up directly to the batt. then the problem is somewhere in the controller. Maybe you have something wired wrong to the controller. I have not been into ione of htese things but I would think it has to be similar to a tilt trim system on outboard motor. Probably two solenoids, one in the other out. Of course all they do is reverse the polarity to the slide mortor. The motor has a limit/load sensing switsh that stops it in the extreme in/out position. I would try disconnecting the wires at the controller and then put the fuse in, if it doesn't blow then just hook up the controller and not the motor and see what happens. I have aa American Star ordered, supposed to be in this week. I have got soome prwetty decent info from Newmar, you might try contacting them. Phone is 574-773-7791, fax. 574-7732895. also their web. bg http://newmarcorp.com

 

[Ron Bissett]

Thanks for both replies . So far as you said the motor is controlled by a sensor (its in the Intel box) works on amp load box 4 to 14 amps rated has adjustment wheel and arrows. Checked the wires and the switch seem to be OK from switch to box , The new box has extra post called the supply dist. said extra was for second switch and not to use and aux ground also and to use normal marked ground. Checked the wires behind penal mount and all seem to be OK . Used batt and slide will still work , Fuse still blow . I think I will cut in to the cover skin on bottom and trace what wires I can with a volt meter. I did cut in to the skin for a look at the drain valve system , The handles go through the frame and have lock bales , on my system 95 to get to valves skin must be cut to gain access . The valve was covered with a skin 24x24 plate screws 8 and sealer around plate Removed expected to see a small access hole ,sup-prise no hole just plate. Plenty of sealer around drain pipe , cut skin removed fiber glass Matt . The valves are Velterra 3'' with 3'' rubber coupler to tank with band clamps Gray tank 1 1/2 Velterra with 1 1/2 rubber coupler with bands , easy to remove or replace or change the slide valve with kit, Control rod hooks on to valve with cotter pin so a hole looks like the only mod to be done There was starting to worry if the thing broke while on trip , now know how and what to expect . Ill bet the new ones are just a bout the same , No problems so far with the system This is a used trailer But its Very well made and a good choice Old or new . Thanks again thought I should share this finding in to the unknown of the under world. Ron Bissett in Metro louisville KY

 

[Prairie Dog]

Could you disconnect the wires at both ends (motor and controller) and then check the pos one for resistance to ground or even to the other wire? If you have a minor short (like a chaffed wire), the battery may provide the extra current needed to overcome it while your converter may not.



Scotty